I searched through the general audio section and it seems everything is geared for the later models.

I have a Focal 8" subwoofer. I want to upgrade the amplifier from Bose to a 3rd party unit. I am sure its been done but can anybody link me towards a topic that has covered this? Or give any insight?

 

Check these two threads, pretty good info.

https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/%2A%2Aaudio-video-diy-info-faq-all-models-%2A%2A-299065/

https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/comprehensive-data-upgrading-2nd-gen-sound-system-tl-263649/

 

That's some good info.

I've been thinking about replacing the stock sub with something that'll put out some lower frequencies, as I'm used to 2 15's.... LOL.

 

i got a kicker C8...works in free air and in a box...im installing it 2day...should hit those low frequencies that us bass heads are accustomed to

 

its pretty simple. the usual running of the power and ground wire to the amp. there's an unused grommet above the gas pedal - that's sorta in the middle of the firewall. you gotta remove a pre-cut insulation to get to it. run the power wire up the driver's side since the OEM amp signal is on the passenger's side

then pull the backseats, and you'll find the stock sub amp behind the passenger rear seat. There's a brown shielded cover with two wires in it, coming from the door into the amp - that's the sub signal +/- coming from the front. The orange wire at the amp is the remote turn-on. Although the signal is pre-amp, I had a problem with it from the BOSE equalizer, so I used the hi-level inputs rather than RCAs as lo-level. So you may need a LOC.

 

I know I'm bringing back an old thread, but any updates on the rear sub upgrade? Did you guys use an aftermarket amp? Any other useful bits of info would be great.

 

The Kicker RMB-8 is no longer available... any new subs that anyone knows to use that can use the same instructions??? How is the C-8 working for ya, L's TL???

 

Any thing thats free air, under 9" in dia and has a very shallow (under 3") mounting depth

 

^^ Yeah, I kinda figured that.. but was hoping that someone that was more current could provide a brand or model that has a proven record with it... I hate being the guinea pig (but usually am)....

 

I too am actually looking to upgrad my stock sub to something a bit better but keep the thing in the stock location.

If anybody could provide a make or model for a good sub that would fit in the stock location, then that would be great. I'm not looking for anything powerful, just something that is better than the stock sub, maybe something I could get like 300 watts out of, and btw I already have an amp installed for the stock sub.

 

i have one for sale if anybody wants it. (kicker rmb8)

 

can you pm me with the price and details

 

looks like the rmb-8 was replaced with a similar speaker the ssmb-8

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...64SSMB8&tp=111

A little more than I am looking to spend on the factory stereo, but someone else might be interested.
-Tim

 

sfont012, I too might be interested in your rmb-8. Send me a price Shipped to 28405 as well...

 

The ssmb-8 can be picked up on ebay for ~$100

 

The only reason we can't install a deeper sub in the stock location is because the torsion bars are in the way, right? Would it be possible to remove the torsion bars and install shocks like on the hood?

 

I've actually wanted to upgrade my 8 inch sub but there is a metal bar (flat) with two small rods connecting to the trunk hinges clipped to it...i removed the clip letting the bars hang and i tried to pop off the bar but it seems to be in there very well...ive decided to cut the bar out of the trunk to fit a deeper sub and leave the rods hanging....they have been disconnected from the bar for some time and the trunk seems to open the same way without any issues....ill try to put pictures on soon to better explain what i am attempting to do..

 

Yes, see this thread. https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104226

 

That and the fact the rear deck wasnt designed for a bigger heavier sub

 

you know those bars are under pressure and could have taken a finger off??

 

There's no way the trunk lid is the same with the torsion bars disconnected. The lid wont stay up and it wont pop up when it's opened.

 

i havent seen a difference but at the same time technically the only difference is the clip isnt hold the two together...its still there and that might be the reason why it seems to be working still...is the torsion bars the two skinny bars that go from one side to the other?? i was never going to remove those just the bar directly under the stock sub

 

im confused about the finger issue? it has me worried about doing anything more to it in fear of loosing one haahaha

 

i got a steal of a deal.
2 12's and an amp $40
box $30
installation $60
but i had a 30 gift card, so it came out to $100

 

That thread is what got me thinking about doing this. Based on that thread, it looked like he added the strut to assist the torsion bars. I guess my question was whether anybody had actually removed the torsion bars and only used the strut.

Based on the discussion here, it sounds like it might not be worth the risk to pull the torsion bars out...