xconradx

I need to view my timing belt - I tried to search and found this from another post. Its a 99.

"The little plug doesn't show the timing belt, just the front cam gear. The upper front cover is held on with 3 screws after you first remove the front valve cover cozy."

However, on that cover, there is a little sticker that says something like "Read service manual, auto-tensioner in here, do not remove certain screws, blah blah"

I just need to see if its the stock one or not. Can i remove that cover to pull it back enough to check and be safe?

Thanks!

phee

iTrader: (5)

its 5 bolts and you need a number 5 ratchet. one of the bolts is behind the power steering belt and its a B**** to get to. but pull it off and post a pic here.

phee

iTrader: (5)

sorry. number 10 ratchet lol

swalch@stanford.edu

I don't see any problem with removing the front upper cover. The timing tensioner is behind the lower cover.

I guess you are trying to determine if its the original timing belt.

phee

iTrader: (5)

check my valve adjustment thread. it has instructions on removing the timing belt cover

xconradx

@ Swaltch - Yeah, I paid my mechanic about 600 bucks to do the timing belt/water pump about 5 months ago. I should have just done it myself, but I don't have the time or a good place to do it.

Anyways, I'm having doubts that he actually did it, so I'm going to pull the cover to see if its an aftermarket or oem.


@ Phee - thanks for your help, I'll post some pictures. And yeah, I noticed that one behind the pump - a gear wrench will do good there. I just took a look at your valve adjustment thread, great write up! Pics are great too, I'll be pulling mine today.

Thanks much!

01tl4tl

does your receipt SAY it got a new tensioner listed on the parts- with a price next to each part- thats the law?
Some techs are of the belief that if its not making noise now, and the grease looks ok- to leave it in-
but why is my feeling!!!
- such an important part- if it fails, the belt goes!- and your whole reason to do the belt was to keep the engine from self destructing one day.

If they are a licensed shop- the liabilty and even State issued license to operate as auto repair shop are at stake on every repair they do. If they say a tensioner was replaced and 6 months later the OE one still on there fails--- they owe you a new engine PLUS there is the issue of FRAUD and the law steps in and its messy and totally not worth it to the shop to do.
Its not worth it to shops to screw you for 50 bucks on a fake part replacement- when they can jack up the labor or fluids used and shop supplies charges, and legally get it that way.
I was in the biz- I know.
If you went to joe cheapos treeside repair shop and beef jerky stand!!...then you are on your own
but they do have great jerky!

Note- Its my opinion that replacing all the tensioners AND the accessory belts at the 105k service, its a really good idea while its apart- you already paid the labor to get there- a little more to do it perfect is a wise investment. The techs like new parts!

Replace the radiator hoses and the little coolant bypass hoses to the intake- they get a lot of heat and wear out- if they are spongy feeling or have any soft spots (engine off-warm) the hoses are toast... and can blow at any time- or get sucked closed and not flow water --thats a good one to diagnose to!
Check the receipt before digging into the engine

Do you think they did not do the job at all- or just halfazzed or????
the name on the belt is also confusing- the box may say honda and the belt gates- so dont freak out on that
Look for bolts with paint scaped off edges from sockets or wrenches- look around the engine oil dipstick- that has to be removed or moved to get in and work on everything else
there will be signs of work done in there

phee

iTrader: (5)

no prob my dude. let us see it!

xconradx

Hey guys,

I'm headed outside to check it right now - pics coming briefly.

@ 01tl4tl - This is why I am suspicious... Got under the car for an oil change and no bolts anywhere look like they have been touched. Aside from that, the biggest reason for my checking is that the water pump seal is leaking (or at least it sure looks like thats the culprit, as it couldn't really come from anywhere else).

It's a slow leak, but nonetheless, a 4ish month old seal should NOT be leaking. Period. However, they have done good work for me the last 3 years, but a double check is certainly in order.

Hold on for the verdict...

xconradx

When I went in to get it replaced, they said they used Goodyear belts only. So that answers that. Also, the belt is in good shape, no frays cracks, rubbery on top, not dry. It looks like a 4 month old belt, very good.

I just need to get the water pump seal repaired under warranty.

Also, they did not replace the tensioner, quoting it was in good mechanical shape.

Thanks again for all your help guys!

01tl4tl

sometimes the person you are talking with thinks they use goodyear because they have a rack of them on the wall- but when they dont fit whatever car- they call the parts house and get Gates- which happens to supply a large portion of the cars made with their stock belts!

Since all that is coming off to replace the water pump seal- ask them to install a new tensioner
Good now, and good for another 100-120k miles---- are very different things
You dont want to go back in there again with an emergency~~ -
a failed tensioner can seize and the timing belt jumps off- the pistons strike the open valves...its not pretty, and it is expensive to fix! in the range of 4gs

Or it wobbles and the belt jams with same results

Part is like 100 bucks- spend it!

xconradx

Dropped it off tonight, going to ask them to do the tensioner as well as they are in the area, like you said.