Throttle cable - required tighening
12-08-2008, 11:42 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Throttle cable - required tighening
Guys,
I thought I'd just post this in case any of you run into this problem.
On my 2000 TL the throttle cable seems to have stretched a little. Over the years I never really noticed it, until I was tweaking something and wanted to rev the motor. There was a fair amount of slack in the line, a lot more then I would consider normal, or I ever remember.
So I tightened it up, by loosening the bolts, and moving the housing to tighten up the slack. After I moved it about 4-5mm to the right (towards the back of the motor), I started the car back up. No high revs to suggest I had over tightened it and so I went for a spin.
It's a very different car now. I can get traction control to kick in on dry ground very easily and it pulls a lot harder. I suspect it's been this way for a while but I rarely give it so never noticed.
Hope this helps someone searching in the future. To that future person - your welcome.
I thought I'd just post this in case any of you run into this problem.
On my 2000 TL the throttle cable seems to have stretched a little. Over the years I never really noticed it, until I was tweaking something and wanted to rev the motor. There was a fair amount of slack in the line, a lot more then I would consider normal, or I ever remember.
So I tightened it up, by loosening the bolts, and moving the housing to tighten up the slack. After I moved it about 4-5mm to the right (towards the back of the motor), I started the car back up. No high revs to suggest I had over tightened it and so I went for a spin.
It's a very different car now. I can get traction control to kick in on dry ground very easily and it pulls a lot harder. I suspect it's been this way for a while but I rarely give it so never noticed.
Hope this helps someone searching in the future. To that future person - your welcome.
12-08-2008, 11:58 AM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Try shooting some grease down the cable housing and working it in. Doing this and cleaning my throttle body removed the sticky pedal issue I had previously.
12-08-2008, 02:52 PM
#5
you want just enough play that pushing the cable with a finger doesnt move the cable at the throttle- but a little more will...does that make sense?
1/8" freeplay?
To lube- remove both cables from the mount- shoot silicone lube-wd or deep creep down into the cable sheath- move the cable to force fluid thru
reassemble and adjust-check for idel and idle return after rev
Clean the TB plate while you are there- it gets saturated with engine oily vapor blowby and needs to be kept clean with carb clean-TB cleaner -deep creep works too
1/8" freeplay?
To lube- remove both cables from the mount- shoot silicone lube-wd or deep creep down into the cable sheath- move the cable to force fluid thru
reassemble and adjust-check for idel and idle return after rev
Clean the TB plate while you are there- it gets saturated with engine oily vapor blowby and needs to be kept clean with carb clean-TB cleaner -deep creep works too
12-08-2008, 02:53 PM
#6
rob -you had the intake off a few times now- possibly at the dealer was last person to adjust the throttle cables? or was it you after the valve adjust?
Every cars throttle cable/spring return mechanism needs to be cleaned and lubed- most techs dont bother, but we care abut our cars!
Every cars throttle cable/spring return mechanism needs to be cleaned and lubed- most techs dont bother, but we care abut our cars!
12-08-2008, 03:51 PM
#7
you want just enough play that pushing the cable with a finger doesnt move the cable at the throttle- but a little more will...does that make sense?
1/8" freeplay?
To lube- remove both cables from the mount- shoot silicone lube-wd or deep creep down into the cable sheath- move the cable to force fluid thru
reassemble and adjust-check for idel and idle return after rev
Clean the TB plate while you are there- it gets saturated with engine oily vapor blowby and needs to be kept clean with carb clean-TB cleaner -deep creep works too
1/8" freeplay?
To lube- remove both cables from the mount- shoot silicone lube-wd or deep creep down into the cable sheath- move the cable to force fluid thru
reassemble and adjust-check for idel and idle return after rev
Clean the TB plate while you are there- it gets saturated with engine oily vapor blowby and needs to be kept clean with carb clean-TB cleaner -deep creep works too
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12-08-2008, 05:01 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
rob -you had the intake off a few times now- possibly at the dealer was last person to adjust the throttle cables? or was it you after the valve adjust?
Every cars throttle cable/spring return mechanism needs to be cleaned and lubed- most techs dont bother, but we care abut our cars!
Every cars throttle cable/spring return mechanism needs to be cleaned and lubed- most techs dont bother, but we care abut our cars!
Now that I think about it you're right. I did mark it though to set it back up correctly. It may have loosened and/or stretched.
Car is quicker now at WOT
12-08-2008, 06:10 PM
#10
bringin lead
should be about a 1/4 inch of slack when you press lightly on the cable with your finger between the bracket and throttle body (02-03 for sure). the tb plate should be 100% shut at idle.
12-08-2008, 07:25 PM
#11
the best thing is to remove the rubber intake snout and grab a mechanics mirror
Be certain the TB plate is clean before you start, then check that it's closed at idle,
and full throttle --- with the pedal ---makes it flat to the airflow-horizontal
Be certain the TB plate is clean before you start, then check that it's closed at idle,
and full throttle --- with the pedal ---makes it flat to the airflow-horizontal
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 12-08-2008 at 07:29 PM.
12-08-2008, 07:29 PM
#12
sluggish cars may need a seafoam treatment before thinking throttle cable~
60-70k miles- wont hurt to install new NGK Iridium sparkplugs, they MAY last to 105 but not a peak performance
When installing a spacer at the TB to manifold- P2R or Outlaw- that will require
resetting the throttle cables too.
I forgot to say before: when you are lubing the cable- hold it as vertical as able- get the lubricant to go thru all the way, (put shop rag at throttle pedal inside car)
Clean and lube the mechanism return springs- that makes a big differance
60-70k miles- wont hurt to install new NGK Iridium sparkplugs, they MAY last to 105 but not a peak performance
When installing a spacer at the TB to manifold- P2R or Outlaw- that will require
resetting the throttle cables too.
I forgot to say before: when you are lubing the cable- hold it as vertical as able- get the lubricant to go thru all the way, (put shop rag at throttle pedal inside car)
Clean and lube the mechanism return springs- that makes a big differance
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hohmst1 (12-13-2012)
12-08-2008, 07:54 PM
#13
bringin lead
sluggish cars may need a seafoam treatment before thinking throttle cable~
60-70k miles- wont hurt to install new NGK Iridium sparkplugs, they MAY last to 105 but not a peak performance
When installing a spacer at the TB to manifold- P2R or Outlaw- that will require
resetting the throttle cables too.
I forgot to say before: when you are lubing the cable- hold it as vertical as able- get the lubricant to go thru all the way, (put shop rag at throttle pedal inside car)
Clean and lube the mechanism return springs- that makes a big differance
60-70k miles- wont hurt to install new NGK Iridium sparkplugs, they MAY last to 105 but not a peak performance
When installing a spacer at the TB to manifold- P2R or Outlaw- that will require
resetting the throttle cables too.
I forgot to say before: when you are lubing the cable- hold it as vertical as able- get the lubricant to go thru all the way, (put shop rag at throttle pedal inside car)
Clean and lube the mechanism return springs- that makes a big differance
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