Throttle cable - required tighening
Throttle cable - required tighening
Guys,
I thought I'd just post this in case any of you run into this problem.
On my 2000 TL the throttle cable seems to have stretched a little. Over the years I never really noticed it, until I was tweaking something and wanted to rev the motor. There was a fair amount of slack in the line, a lot more then I would consider normal, or I ever remember.
So I tightened it up, by loosening the bolts, and moving the housing to tighten up the slack. After I moved it about 4-5mm to the right (towards the back of the motor), I started the car back up. No high revs to suggest I had over tightened it and so I went for a spin.
It's a very different car now. I can get traction control to kick in on dry ground very easily and it pulls a lot harder. I suspect it's been this way for a while but I rarely give it so never noticed.
Hope this helps someone searching in the future. To that future person - your welcome.
I thought I'd just post this in case any of you run into this problem.
On my 2000 TL the throttle cable seems to have stretched a little. Over the years I never really noticed it, until I was tweaking something and wanted to rev the motor. There was a fair amount of slack in the line, a lot more then I would consider normal, or I ever remember.
So I tightened it up, by loosening the bolts, and moving the housing to tighten up the slack. After I moved it about 4-5mm to the right (towards the back of the motor), I started the car back up. No high revs to suggest I had over tightened it and so I went for a spin.
It's a very different car now. I can get traction control to kick in on dry ground very easily and it pulls a lot harder. I suspect it's been this way for a while but I rarely give it so never noticed.
Hope this helps someone searching in the future. To that future person - your welcome.
hmmm would this explain slight hesitation when hitting the gas peddle? Sometimes my gas peddle just seems sticky... havent been able to figure out what the problem is yet maybe thats it?
you want just enough play that pushing the cable with a finger doesnt move the cable at the throttle- but a little more will...does that make sense?
1/8" freeplay?
To lube- remove both cables from the mount- shoot silicone lube-wd or deep creep down into the cable sheath- move the cable to force fluid thru
reassemble and adjust-check for idel and idle return after rev
Clean the TB plate while you are there- it gets saturated with engine oily vapor blowby and needs to be kept clean with carb clean-TB cleaner -deep creep works too
1/8" freeplay?
To lube- remove both cables from the mount- shoot silicone lube-wd or deep creep down into the cable sheath- move the cable to force fluid thru
reassemble and adjust-check for idel and idle return after rev
Clean the TB plate while you are there- it gets saturated with engine oily vapor blowby and needs to be kept clean with carb clean-TB cleaner -deep creep works too
rob -you had the intake off a few times now- possibly at the dealer was last person to adjust the throttle cables? or was it you after the valve adjust?
Every cars throttle cable/spring return mechanism needs to be cleaned and lubed- most techs dont bother, but we care abut our cars!
Every cars throttle cable/spring return mechanism needs to be cleaned and lubed- most techs dont bother, but we care abut our cars!
you want just enough play that pushing the cable with a finger doesnt move the cable at the throttle- but a little more will...does that make sense?
1/8" freeplay?
To lube- remove both cables from the mount- shoot silicone lube-wd or deep creep down into the cable sheath- move the cable to force fluid thru
reassemble and adjust-check for idel and idle return after rev
Clean the TB plate while you are there- it gets saturated with engine oily vapor blowby and needs to be kept clean with carb clean-TB cleaner -deep creep works too
1/8" freeplay?
To lube- remove both cables from the mount- shoot silicone lube-wd or deep creep down into the cable sheath- move the cable to force fluid thru
reassemble and adjust-check for idel and idle return after rev
Clean the TB plate while you are there- it gets saturated with engine oily vapor blowby and needs to be kept clean with carb clean-TB cleaner -deep creep works too
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rob -you had the intake off a few times now- possibly at the dealer was last person to adjust the throttle cables? or was it you after the valve adjust?
Every cars throttle cable/spring return mechanism needs to be cleaned and lubed- most techs dont bother, but we care abut our cars!
Every cars throttle cable/spring return mechanism needs to be cleaned and lubed- most techs dont bother, but we care abut our cars!
Now that I think about it you're right. I did mark it though to set it back up correctly. It may have loosened and/or stretched.
Car is quicker now at WOT
the best thing is to remove the rubber intake snout and grab a mechanics mirror
Be certain the TB plate is clean before you start, then check that it's closed at idle,
and full throttle --- with the pedal ---makes it flat to the airflow-horizontal
Be certain the TB plate is clean before you start, then check that it's closed at idle,
and full throttle --- with the pedal ---makes it flat to the airflow-horizontal
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Dec 8, 2008 at 07:29 PM.
sluggish cars may need a seafoam treatment before thinking throttle cable~
60-70k miles- wont hurt to install new NGK Iridium sparkplugs, they MAY last to 105 but not a peak performance
When installing a spacer at the TB to manifold- P2R or Outlaw- that will require
resetting the throttle cables too.
I forgot to say before: when you are lubing the cable- hold it as vertical as able- get the lubricant to go thru all the way, (put shop rag at throttle pedal inside car)
Clean and lube the mechanism return springs- that makes a big differance
60-70k miles- wont hurt to install new NGK Iridium sparkplugs, they MAY last to 105 but not a peak performance
When installing a spacer at the TB to manifold- P2R or Outlaw- that will require
resetting the throttle cables too.
I forgot to say before: when you are lubing the cable- hold it as vertical as able- get the lubricant to go thru all the way, (put shop rag at throttle pedal inside car)
Clean and lube the mechanism return springs- that makes a big differance
sluggish cars may need a seafoam treatment before thinking throttle cable~
60-70k miles- wont hurt to install new NGK Iridium sparkplugs, they MAY last to 105 but not a peak performance
When installing a spacer at the TB to manifold- P2R or Outlaw- that will require
resetting the throttle cables too.
I forgot to say before: when you are lubing the cable- hold it as vertical as able- get the lubricant to go thru all the way, (put shop rag at throttle pedal inside car)
Clean and lube the mechanism return springs- that makes a big differance
60-70k miles- wont hurt to install new NGK Iridium sparkplugs, they MAY last to 105 but not a peak performance
When installing a spacer at the TB to manifold- P2R or Outlaw- that will require
resetting the throttle cables too.
I forgot to say before: when you are lubing the cable- hold it as vertical as able- get the lubricant to go thru all the way, (put shop rag at throttle pedal inside car)
Clean and lube the mechanism return springs- that makes a big differance
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