The temp guage has been doing this for a while when i press the gas you can see it go down. Rad fans working. The car does not seem to be overheating. Coolant is not low either. Also a/c is only mild until i hit the gas. Serp belt coulduse replacement but i cant see that affecting the a/c. No need to tell me it been talked about ive got suspects just seeing if any link up with yours.

 

Are you sure there aren't any air bubbles in your system?
I had an issue like that before with my Temp Gauge sitting at Maximum for as long as 10 seconds then restoring back to normal, Changed the Sensor and everything worked fined again.. Pretty cheap too.

 

Ill check for air bubbles but if it were bubbles wouldnt it be more spread out. This happens everytime the car is not moving. But as i said before the car does not seem to be overheating. Only the guage is going up. Wat sensors did you replace.

 

Temp sensor at the Thermostat Housing.

 

the serp belt you can see does run the AC! is it a tensioner problem or belt issue there?

ac on and temp spikes = how did you verify correct fan operation?
Does driver side fan run 5-10 minutes after engine shutdown? = fan sensor A failure
That screws with fan running when needed and extra run time at shutdown

Passenger side fan run as soon as AC turned on and stays on with ac operation?

Burp the cooling system per owner book- that's ~20 minutes of running at spec rpm's waiting for fans to cycle on and off x times yadayada
topping off as needed

Make sure coolant res bottle has its cap on tight and the hose inside cap is secured on tight!

Without sticking a finger (kidding) or temp gauge into rad while temp is indicated high- you have no idea if its running hot
Observe flow thru rad with cap removed `while engine COLD`, and engine run until thermostat opens- coolant flows

How old is the coolant, more than 5 years?
same for water pump? last replaced? ever?? miles now?

 

Undo the support brackets for the radiator and look between the radiator and condenser. See if its really dirty in there. I had that happen to mine where when the AC was on it would cause the temp gauge to raise. Once i flushed/washed that area out it never happened again.

 

I bet its dirty in there the people I bought the car from had it sitting under a pine tree.!!!!! And to clarify the temp guage spikes any time A/c on or off Heat on or off. It just does it every time the car stops for more than 20 seconds.

 

If it is in fact rising like that i would STOP driving the car until this is figured out. If the motor is actually getting hot like the needle is showing you can and will damage it quickly. The motor and heads are Aluminum and you will warp the head.

If it is clean in there i would next go to the temp sensors and check/replace those.

 

Ok the fans do run long after car has been shut off. Coolant looks to be mid life. As far as the water pump your guess is as good as mine. That was actually what I was leaning towards(for the temp spike). I am going to do the timing belt, serp belt and water pump after my vacation next week. The car currently has 164,000 miles on it. I just did an AV6 about a month and a half ago so my plans on resale are no more. She is a reliable daily so my new car stay nice and well NEW lol. I just have to fix these other annoyin hiccups in it.
Thank you guys I will check the easy things as soon as I get a free minute.

 

usually when the temp spikes so quickly when stopped, the radiator is clogged
with crud in the flow passages, can be seen thru rad cap opening

Fan - it should ONLY be the driver fan - runs more than 1 minute after shutdown = fan sensor A failure, very common- first thing we think of when temp goes up~
If BOTH fans run after shutdown there is serious overheat going on

A car that sat before sale and needed all the things you have done, not likely to have fresh coolant, not likely wp was replaced at 105

Note: you seem to be skilled but ck the 105 diy for tools and special tips on the job.
While it may take several hours for a first timer, doing the extras like TB/ cleaning service of IACV and complete engine valve adjust will pay you back

Last tip: our old friend the bad ground wires, Will cause many problems with sensors and running
Ck the batt neg- its connector comes loose off end of the wire- under battery box,
and the 5 small braided wires from frame to engine and trans parts

 

midlife coolant? is it bright color or faded?

the additives in coolant turn acidic in an aluminum environment, some as little as 3 years, most modern ones say 5 years MAX and the original acura stuff `worked` for 7 years,
but after that initial change with the 105 water pump job, acura says replace every 5 years -on their coolant!

 

make sure the heater is set to full hot and cabin fan on High when burping rad system
open car doors to vent cabin!

the mini rad that is the heater core is a great place to hide air =that appears next time you use heater

free owner book download from acura here Acura Owners Site | Exclusive Knowledge, Service, & Benefits

 

I have cleaned the Iacv twice and tb but will do it again with timing belt. You are most certainly right I doubt any necessary maintenance was done. As for the fluid it is not bright but still has color not quite faded and discolored like its super old. When I am done this car will be brand new damn near lol. Ive put quite a bit into it thus far.

 

Good info on the fan sensor A. My car occasionally will run the driver's side fan for a few minutes after it has shut off. This is typically on warmer days, especially after my wife drives the car. And on a side note, I watch my car like a hawk and it gets terrible gas mileage when she drives it. ???

It also seems like my car likes to run the fans more than it used to. Temp gauge stays nice and steady. If I idle the car for a while, like 10 mins or more, then the fan/s will come on with increasing frequency until they stay on all the time until the car gets moving again.

Water pump/T belt is 55K overdue. Maybe the pump is losing effectiveness?

 

probably that and the weak coolant! coolant change is cheap and gets rid of years of crud buildup inside rad and engine block

At idle the water pump isn't turning much, so hold the rpm to 1500 on long waits at idle

 

Laugh at my expense. I remembered yesterday i never added or burped the system after the av6 swap. Put a thermostat n burped it and she is 100%.

 

Nice when its a simple fix!

Didn't we ask a few times about burping?

 

Yea it is nice wen its easy.. It sucks when you figure it out then kick youself in the ass and say I know better. Yea you guys did honestly I prob wouldnt have tried it had you not.

 

I always suspect the last work done on the car when a new problem appears~
Especially if I did the work!

 

Yea I usually do but the thought never crossed my mind. I just realized that the video in my first post is only a picture. Sorry I was at my second job delivering pizzas and doing it all on my iphone. To add the a/c still cools a little more with rpms. I still suspect serp belt and will replace the cracked worn thing after vacation.

 

Your ac could just be low on freon thats why its not cold.

 

If the tensioner unit for the ac belt is worn the belt isn't turning the compressor at operating speed at idle
Make sure to replace it along with the ac belt, that tensioner is a well known failure

Once that's fixed, you can look at pressures of ac and add Freon if needed
Don't add some because you think its the problem~
that's a great way to blow up the compressor!