how many litres of motor oil does the car need?
because I wanna buy Mobil 1 syntheic oil for my car....

 

4.6 quarts = 4.35 Liters

 

I put in 4.5 litres of mobile 1 on my last ooil change...
but no more than that....

just double check your dip stick so mack sure the oil is close to the max level.

 

I poor the full 5 qts in. and have been doing it now for 197k

 

Really...I've always heard "don't overfill your oil" but I never heard a reason why. Of course you don't want it to over flow. So I take it you have never had any problems with doing this. I always hate leaving that 1/2 quart laying around.

 

I think the manufacturers allow for some leeway in the specs.

 

that small amount extra wont hurt, now if you were to add 1 or 2 quts extra then you could run into issues

 

ok...thanks chewi....
is that safe if I m gonna use 5w30 or 0w20 instead of 5w20 because I cannot find any Mobil1 5w20 in my area

 

The main reason to not overfille it is so the level of the oil is to keep the crankshaft parts from whipping it up and the getting air in the oil pump and other places it should not be.

ML

 

whenever i put the recomended 4.6, I think it needs a bit more. five quarts works 4 me

 

5w30 or the 0w20 is fine. The TL used to be rated for 5w30 but for CAFE standards honda lowered it to 5w20. If you look at the M1 it states its 0w20 is for honda (and a few others) many run it.

 

i run 100% full synthetic 5-30 in the acura, and roush. 0-20 or 5-20 was all about trying to squeze another 1mpg for the epa, nothing more.

 

I finally bought a bottle of Mobil 1 5W30 at Superstore at a really cheap price....what I've got here is a bottle of 4.4L with a bonus bottle of 1L oil.
I brought those to Acura dealer and let them changed for me. They said they just need to use 4.25L on the TL so that I still have some left.

 

doesn't hurt to "double check" the dip stick, sometimes they fill and dont start the car, let it run, and then check it again, the oil filter holds oil also!!

 

check it after teh car start, it will drop a little bit

and usually it's 4.5 litre when it's leveled, but if u jack up the front to drain the oil it will drain a little more so it would be around 4.6-4.8L

 

So should I fill the rest of the whole bottle myself?
I believe that the 4.4L bottle should still have 0.15 ~0.20L left

 

4.4L might be enough

for our cars it's around 4.5-4.8L depends on how you drained them out

and it cannot be accurate if u measure the dip stick b4 u start the car

 

But acutally do I suppose to measure the dip stick before I start the engine? I think it says that on our Acura manual.

 

do it b4 and after

once the engine start it will go a little lower since it has to run off the oil filter and stuff

 

Pour in 5 quarts! Simple as that

 

 

Do U Need Synthenic???? Or U Prefer Synthic...

 

You dont need it, But many prefer it due to is abaility to last longer (ie 10-15k change intervals)

 

The reason on why they say this is because the higher the oil level the higher the oil pressure is. I have tested this in my 98 GMC Box truck and with 4.2Q in it, the oil psi guage was at 1/2 way or 40 psi i think. I put in 5Q and it rose to 44-48 psi. Im not too sure why, but thats what happened. When we had a boat with a 5.7L V8 (damn i loved that boat) in it, it did the same exact thing.

 

Synthetic oils are also better for the engine. They lubricate better and as was stated, it does last longer.

I said this in another thread, but I spoke with a guy who is a mechanic in Penske Racing. He actually works on the engines and the suspensions in the Indy cars. He also completly rebuilt his suspension on his STI and damn. Seriosuly, the car does not let go of the road. Anyway. what im getting at here is that he said that you should only use Sythetic oils because they are just better. They are formulated to last longer and will always make the engine last longer. He also told me this lil bit of info. For the hot summer months, you should use thicker oil. Dont be afraid to buy the thickest oil (i use 15W-50) and for the winter, use the regular recomended oil. This is because the engines run hotter in the summer and thicker oil provides more protection and is less viscous. While in the winter its the opposite. The oil needs to be thinner because if it was thick, then it would be hard to start pumping the oil thus possibly damaging the oil pump.

 

or i should add that synthetic works better in extreme low and high temp that regualr oil will lose the lubrication ability

 

Thats too thick and unneeded for normal cars. its actually hurting your performance and mileage.

 

^ that too!

 

Thats way to thick and robbing HP and mileage. That weight is not needed. especially in our cars

 

best oil filter for our cars? i've been running mobil 1 5/30 synthetic w/ a bosch filter, but was wondering if mobil 1 filters were worth the 11 dollar price where bosch is only 6, or if theres something better to use.

 

Thicker is better is simply an old wives tale.

There’s probably a reason why he uses such thick oils, at least for the race engines. Loose tolerances may be a reason, but its probably because of the higher HT/HS readings in the higher vis oils that allow for a greater oil film that may be necessary during serious racing for better wear protection.

If you go back and look at a test that was done on oils with viscosities ranging from 5w-20 to 15w-40, the wear differences in the bearings for example, were very similar regardless of whether a 5w-20 or 15w-40 was used, provided that the car is driven normally. In addition, once you go beyond a SAE 40, you gain little wear reduction anyway….

The reason why Honda can recommend an xw-20 and still obtain good wear protection is because the bulk of their engines operate under high rpms, but very low-loads, opposed to a V8 Ford pick-up towing a 10,000 pound trailer.

Current SAE standards require xw-20 engine oils to have a HT/HS of 2.6cp, and xw-30 engine oils to have a minimum HT/HS of 2.9cp. Most 5w-20 synthetics and conventionals have a HT/HS of 2.6cp, nothing more. M1 10w-30 EP for example, has a HT/HS of approx 3.2cp, IIRC. Now, 5w-20 oils have shown excellent analysis results, which was of course no surprise to me as most 5w-30 conventionals thin to a high 20w anyway. Thus, 5w-20 works fine for most people without sacrificing wear protection.

If you feel it is necessary for your situation, as you feel for whatever reason that you would like to use an oil with a higher HT/HS for possibly better wear protection, then use M1 10w-30 EP. It’s rated at 10.6cst at 100C, so it shouldn’t seriously affect performance or fuel efficiency over a 5w-20. Again, not necessary for 95% of the people out there, but if you think your driving justifies the need for a thicker oil, then go right ahead….

I don’t disagree that synthetics last longer…but I doubt they’ll make an engine last longer. The only way a synthetic can allow an engine to wear less would be due to its better viscosity retention, as synthetics rarely thin out of grade whereas it’s a common problem with conventionals. However, I’ve never seen slight shearing common with dinos cause additional wear.

 

Synthetic oils will allow for easier start-up due to a faster cranking speed in cold temps. However, lubrication is NEVER a problem even at -20 or -40 with conventionals….simply cranking speed. The leftover oil in the bearings at that temp will have a tremendous load capacity and will provide sufficient lubrication until warm-up…same with other parts of the engine. The myth about your engine suffering from a death due to start-up wear is simply a marketing tactic used by syn oil salesman…though I’d personally still use syn if you’re going to be operating in extreme cold purely for the faster cranking speed.

BTW, OEMs test for unaided starting (no block heater, battery blanket) down to -20. Only under -20 do they allow for aided starting, but even then, at temps down to -40, they still test for unaided starting to assume worse case scenario. I was given this info from a GM engineer I knew off another board. He said that even when starting at temps as low as -40, he’d do immediate full acceleration to test for the worse case scenario…..(not recommended)

Even at very high temps, conventionals would do fine. Look for one that has a high Viscosity Index…which tells you how much the oil will thin at high temps and thicken at low temps…the higher the VI, the slower the oil will thicken at cold temps and the less it’ll thin out at high-temps. Conventionals having an inadequate lubrication at high temps is a thing of the past….though one should consider using syn if they decide to race at the track.

As for the oil filters, the Purolator PureOne is a good buy at $6 a pop and should last 6-8K without any problems. If drains are kept under 5K, use a $2 Supertech filter.

 

good one, i use Motul 0W-40 for the winter now and it feels so good, with a lot of power, and i do use Amsoil 5W-30 for summer time at the track, 5W-20 is not quite enough for tracking the car