I know the wires should have a relatively high resistance, but does anyone know what is "good" and what is "bad"?

I'm throwing missing cylinder codes on more than half of my motor, and plugs and wires are the first thing that comes to mind.

The plugs I will replace, but the wires.. I don't see a reason why the wires would be bad.

I just don't want to toss money in a hole.

 

Lucky for you we don't need Spark Plug wires since we have Coil-on-Plugs system...
If you have multiple cyl codes you should check each Coil Pack until you found your bad one, Usually 1 bad coil pack will throw several cylinder codes.

 

And.... I do that how?

Also, thanks for the 1,001'st time.

 

The procedure is like this:

1.- Remove your engine coil cover (Plastic thingy)
2.- Locate each coil packs
3.- Start your engine and try to recall its vibration and idle sound
4.- Stop the engine and remove 1 coil pack each time
5.- Listen and see how the engine behaves..
Does it sound worse and idles roughly? YES: Coil is good NO: Coil is bad
6.- ^ Repeat until you find your guilty pack.

BUT first replace the spark plugs so you know they aren't to blame.

 

I'm relatively certain the plugs are the issue. I will toss new ones in today.

What plugs should i get? I have always used coppers.

 

Also, how do i clear the codes? So the light goes off, and i can tell if it's fixed or not.

 

Use only NGK Double Platinum and UP don't use the V Powers or cheapo models.. Most of us use NGK Iridium IX.

You can clear the codes by unplugging the Clock Fuse if you don't have your radio code/nav code, In case you do a faster way is just unplugging your battery and open the KEY to position II for 15 seconds. Close the key and re-install battery the MIL light should be off.

 

Keeping in mind that the rear left spark can be particularly difficult to remove. You can remove it without removing any parts. Use an extension and take your time.

A spark plug socket with the rubber insert will keep you from trying to fish the spark plug out.

Ebay has some aftermarket ignition coils but I would recommend going with the oem.

Finally at the auto parts store get some spark plug grease and put a dab at the end of the spark plug that meets the ignition coil. Easier to remove in the far future.

 

*@#)@# , I don't think i have a long socket to get to the plugs.

 

It's more likely in the case of your symptoms that an ignition coil (or two) has gone bad than a spark plug, so focus on the ignition coils and tracking down the faulty ones.

 

a 6 and 3 inch extension is the trick on the rear cyl
slide the socket and 1 extension down, then the other one and tighten

you have a bad coil,,,plain and simple
dont sweat the plugs yet!
buy a 50 dollar coil at local auto parts store, or acura about same price

disconnecting the power lead to the coils one at a time and watch for no rpm change= bad coil is an easy test,,rather than moving coils around

do reset ecu via clock fuse- remove and insert-, right end of dash

use only ngk,,iridium or iridium ix are the preferred, 8 dollars each
attach 1 foot of vac hose to top of new spark plug
lower the plug into its hole and start with fingertip control and feel for the threads
a tiny stripe of anti sieze on the side of plug threads makes them go in easy

 

^ Printed for reference.

Thanks!

 

A clogged EGR can also set misfire codes, is the engine actually misfiring or shaking at idle, vibrating, flashing CEL etc. Or did it just set codes.

 

^ The thing runs perfect, I thought i would have heard/felt that... But i have the plugs now.

I'll toss them in, see what happens.

I bought some seafoam while I was at it.

The motor in this thing is the last thing i thought i should worry about.

 

If your car is throwing misfire codes, it's probably not running perfectly.

Maybe the plugs will fix it, but it's likely a bad coil if you have multiple misfire codes.

You can leave the engine RUNNING and disconnect each coil and listen for a change in vibration/sound. No problem disconnecting the coils while the engine is running, won't harm anything.

 

Yeah, let me change the plugs and clear the code. If i'm still throwing codes i'll do that... i guess.

I'm not familiar with v6 motors. maybe it is missing on a cylinder or two...

 

The car will not run perfect if there's misfire codes. Plugs may help ?

Just be careful with handling the plugs and coils. They are precision engineered parts and don't take rough treatment like the old copper plugs of yesteryear. But, they will last longer and outperform the old school stuff when working properly.

 

10-4 They should be swapped anyway. After further research i think I have at least one coil bad. (grumble)

 

Just a thought, are you using 91 octane or better every fill up? I used to work at Autozone and we had Acura owners come in all the time complaining of a check engine light. It would throw codes for multiple cylinders misfiring. They would even get a rumble sometimes. Our cars are VERY sensitive to what gasoline is used. The best fix I've found for this symptom was pure 93 every time and some seafoam to get out the buildup from 87 octane fuel. I even had a couple once that drove from New Mexico up here to Indiana and came by for that symptom. It threw 10 codes. 6 of those were engine misfires. I told them about my fix since they were using 87 octane to save money on their trip. They came back a few days later and said that using the 93 and seafoam fixed it. We reset the codes and they were good to go.

 

I've been putting in 89. <_<

I am on empty right now, i'll toss some 93 and seafoam in it.

 

Put a half can in before you fill up. In the future use seafoam only when needed.

For Example; Once every 6 months or when needed not to exceed once or twice a year. The 93 octane should run clean through your car and make it run better.

If you are replacing your spark plugs do the seafoam treatment before you install the new plugs.

 

Not exactly true. I have had mine throw multiple misfire codes when i start the car due to the egr. There is usually just enough of a stumble during startup and the first 30 sec to cause it. You could only tell there was a small mis because of my exhaust. Once running the car would run perfectly. Once i swapped out the EGR i stopped getting the misfire codes

 

And remember this ONLY works if a coil is completely dead and your car is running bad to begin with. Many times this method doesnt work because at idle it is working enough to not cause a rough idle or misfire.

 

The proper and correct way to test an ignition coil is with an ohm meter. All other ways are not 100% effective but will work in a pinch.

 

I believe its the egr from what you mentioned before but look for carbon track on the coil boot or the old spark plugs this also causes misfires. For 2000 and up its easy to clean the egr ports just take off the plate on top of the intake and clean with carburetor cleaner.

 

Don't forget lab scopes you can see wave forms and compare good coils to bad coils.

 

SeaFoam /w 93 octane, new plugs, and cleared the code. So far so good.

the old back passanger plug seems to have carbon buildup. So i put that coil on one of the front plugs. So if it's bad it will be easier to pull.

But i guess i will wait and see.

 

Yahh I would do it only with the Car warm!! Not from a cold stand.