Anyone replace the o2 censors on a 00 tl?
I have no lift so it's going to be a pain in the ass to do!
I'm thinking of changing them while the exhaust is warm so that I can remove them easier. Any tips?

 

You don't need a lift, and are you sure you need both sensors? Just jack the car up, unplug the wires first so they don't twist, and use a wrench with a breaker bar and pop it loose....should just take a few minutes. You may need to spray a little PB Blaster or something around it to free up any rust.

 

Even the Stock Jack would do just rise the Front Passenger wheel and you will have enough space.

Wierd I havent ever EVER Replaced the o2 Sensors in 190K Still getting 23-24 MPGs in City hehehe

 

My mileage sucks moose nuts!! I'm changing both in hopes that it will improve the gas mileage. I took a quick look and saw one. It didn't see the other. Where is it located?

 

Near the Flex Pipe almost beneath the Rear Headers!

 

buy the 10$ tool at parts store, made just for changing these

pre-treat old parts threads with pb or wd40, maybe a few times over a few days, so it really gets in and does its job

NO on doing the job warm,,you may even want cold blast of co2!

 

I'm about to change the rear one.....I'm getting "Bank 2 Sensor" CEL codes. I've asked around what it would cost to R&R and they said that it depends on if the threads strip out when you remove the old one.

What this says to me is that you need to use LOTS of penetrating oil and a firm but gentle force when removing. Using a breaker bar is clearly not a good idea.

I'll let you know how I make out.

smarty....

 

Gonna be doing mine today. Will heat up the bolt before i try to remove it. Hopefully it'll go smooth. Do you know the size of the threads? May be wise to have a tap handy!!

 

I don't know the thread size. I just checked the head size and it's bigger than a 16mm, maybe 18mm ?

I also just found out I may not have a wrench t fit it.

 

GUYS!! go spend the 10 bucks at parts store for the special tool
it slips around and onto the base--makes removal a snap without breaking anything

suggest light application of `spark plug anti sieze` on new o2 sensor threads to make install easy

ck before buying parts,,rear bank is the aft sensor, cking the performance of the cat,,not operation of engine,,odd for it to go first= unless you run 87 octane gas

A quick ck on the emissions/smog machine will tell if the sensors are working right
Your nose works too--go smell the exhaust,,rev engine then let idle--smell during that

 

When i start up my car it smells like unburnt fuel.

 

Its going to. It runs a little richer at start up to get the cat going faster.

 

Should I change only the censor on the cat or both?

 

there is one before the cat to monitor whats coming out of the engine

the one after cat monitors cat operation = readings within spec after cat treatment

some rich fuel smell may exist AT START. but should go away quickly.
mine doesnt smell to any noticable degree

 

it smells at start up but goes a away about a min later. Is this an indication that the o2 censors are bad? I'm also going to change the purge valve on top of the master cyl.

 

No way ! I'm too cheap, I'll go to the vice grips or adjustables and if that doesn't work, there's always C4.....

 

yeah,,sounds like a great plan
be sure to let us know how much it cost for a shop to fix your repair in the end

 

1st timer--what purge valve do you mean? the crankcase PCV on top of rear valve cover?

sounds like your car is normal, smells rich at start then gets on lean cycle
If it smells rich after initial warmup = problem
there is an electrical test you can perform on the O2 sensors,
or spend 20 bucks at smog station for a `pre-test` and know by the numbers if all is well
You can have the cat tested, or bang on it with your hand- listen for loose material
exhaust flow at tailpipe is normal? not restricted by clogged cat

have you seafoamed?
how are the spark plugs? correct ngk and less than 100,000 kms on them?
why are you jumping to replace o2 sensors?,,based only on low mileage per Litre?

looked at other things? tire pressures, brake caliper dragging on, alignment way off
air filter etc

 

I have a code 1457 so I'm going to change the purge valve on the driver side right in front of the master cyl since I hear licking on idle and when I press on the gas it goes away but comes back shortly after! Air filter is clean , plugs have about 50k km. I recently seafoamed the gas tank. I have an other bottle than I'm going to use through the vac line. After I do that, I'll change the plugs!

 

you can do seafoam at 1 can to just under half tank of gas = 8 gallons
do that twice and you have done more than vac port method,
plus all the injection system

no vac port method needed if you do tank twice
DO clean the air plate in TB throat

your plugs should be ok assuming right ones were installed
there is no danger using seafoam on older plugs,,especially with gas tank method only

seafoam and old plugs only a prob if weak-weak plugs, and heavy carbon loading released with vac port method

 

I have NGK iridium plugs . So 1can@half tank x 2 should clean everything?

 

totally cleans everything from tank to cat,
only extra is the throttle body air plate
remove air filter box top and snorkel tube to TB for that
get both sides and edges by moving throttle control