Quick question about torque wrench

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Old 08-19-2008 | 11:53 AM
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Quick question about torque wrench

I tried to do some searching on the internet but I couldn't really find a concrete answer. On a standard beam-type, non-adjustable torque wrench, if you add a socket extension, does the torque meter take that into account? Meaning, will it adjust to the longer length of the torque wrench and still correctly show the torque amount, and it will apply that much torque? Many torque wrench manuals say that socket extensions do not have an affect on the torque reading and application, but reading through some posts on other forums, some people claim that actual use of an extension on a socket wrench decreases the amount of torque. To test this, one person put a 24" long extension on his torque wrench, torqued a bolt down to 100 ft/lbs, then took off the extension and tried to torque it again to 100 ft/lbs. The bolt went tighter. He measured the actual torque of the bolt when tightened to 100 ft/lbs. with the 24" extension and it came out to be ~85 ft/lbs. But who knows if his testing method was accurate or if his tools were accurate or what. Does anyone know the definitive answer?
Old 08-19-2008 | 12:21 PM
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well.. hmm.. 24" sounds a bit LONG..

lol.. maybe try again with like.. a 6" extension???
Old 08-19-2008 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jjashaa
well.. hmm.. 24" sounds a bit LONG..

lol.. maybe try again with like.. a 6" extension???
I actually didn't do the test, I read it on a forum. I know a 24" extension is really long but I think he just used it to show a more extreme case.
Old 08-19-2008 | 12:48 PM
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I know this from back in the day of wrenching in a shop:

A short 1 inch extension makes a slight differance- so you account for that when using a size adaptor to the socket.
If using a 6 inch or longer extension to the socket- it lowers the actual torque being applied to the bolt threads- and needs to be calculated or checked again with no extension.
Some jobs you just cant reach direct -
try adding a swivel connector into the 2 foot extension, and the torque number drops
Old 08-20-2008 | 01:12 PM
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From: CT
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
I know this from back in the day of wrenching in a shop:

A short 1 inch extension makes a slight differance- so you account for that when using a size adaptor to the socket.
If using a 6 inch or longer extension to the socket- it lowers the actual torque being applied to the bolt threads- and needs to be calculated or checked again with no extension.
Some jobs you just cant reach direct -
try adding a swivel connector into the 2 foot extension, and the torque number drops
I wonder why the wrench manuals say that there is no difference? Maybe its a conflict between theory and reality.
Old 08-20-2008 | 01:31 PM
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I got confused. Are you talking about the socket extension or the wrench bar extension ?
Old 08-20-2008 | 01:44 PM
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Socket extension. I know a wrench extension would increase the amount of torque with the same amount of force.
Old 08-20-2008 | 03:58 PM
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which the reading of the torque wrench would not care about- it clicks at the set value,
regardless if its got a 10 foot long handle and 3 people pushing it- 200 foot pounds is what it is!
The only issue is when you add extension link between socket and tool head
Old 08-20-2008 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
which the reading of the torque wrench would not care about- it clicks at the set value,
regardless if its got a 10 foot long handle and 3 people pushing it- 200 foot pounds is what it is!
The only issue is when you add extension link between socket and tool head
That's true for click type torque wrenches, but how about beam type?
Old 08-21-2008 | 12:27 AM
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The torque will be off no matter what type of torque wrench you use. The extension will flex and alter the actual torque being applied to the bolt. You might be getting the full torque value at the top of the extension but not at the socket. By the way, is the beam type torque wrench the one with the needle that points to a number on a scale above the handle? If it is, those torque wrenches are not as accurate as the click type torque wrench.
Old 08-21-2008 | 07:37 AM
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Yes, the beam type is the one with the needle. It's all I have right now, but I'm planning to get a better click-type wrench eventually.
Old 08-21-2008 | 09:35 AM
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I like the electronic torque wrenches, snap-on makes one, craftsman makes one, they are really accurate and takes the guess work out of torquing stuff with extensions, a bit pricey for the DIYer but works great for engine re-builds that require exact torque specs.
Old 08-21-2008 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by AMGala
Yes, the beam type is the one with the needle. It's all I have right now, but I'm planning to get a better click-type wrench eventually.

Do you have a Northern Tool near you? They have really good prices on torque wrenches - I have the click-type which works fine for my needs, but they also have the electronic type, although I don't remember pricing on those.
Old 08-21-2008 | 11:15 AM
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Not sure about Northern Tool, I'll look into that, thanks. I've been keeping an eye on eBay for a Snap-on click-type torque wrench, because I've read that the newer Craftsman wrenches are prone to failing and/or breaking.
Old 08-21-2008 | 12:52 PM
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I've had my craftman click type for years and never had it fail, they probably used it like a regular wrench or breaker bar, who knows, maybe they didn't store it right "back it down to 0 Ft.lbs." But if you want the best get the snap-on Brutus, that thing is a beast! Its heavy so torquing stuff is a breeze.
Old 08-21-2008 | 12:58 PM
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I was taught by the Snap-On man, to reset the torque wrench to 10 foot pounds when done, NOT zero- as keeping slight tension on the spring preserved its calibration

This has worked for over 20 years and still in calibration when tested
Old 08-21-2008 | 01:13 PM
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i've heard both schools of thought on this one. I usually back mine down to zero before putting it away, but would be interested in knowing the "proper" way. The 10lbs from the Snap-On man seems official, but it also seems to reason that over time, the spring might wear or stretch with tension on it.
Old 08-21-2008 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Gee-TR
I've had my craftman click type for years and never had it fail, they probably used it like a regular wrench or breaker bar, who knows, maybe they didn't store it right "back it down to 0 Ft.lbs." But if you want the best get the snap-on Brutus, that thing is a beast! Its heavy so torquing stuff is a breeze.
The older Craftsman wrenches are definitely high-quality, but I think the newer ones are made in China and they just aren't very durable.

Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
I was taught by the Snap-On man, to reset the torque wrench to 10 foot pounds when done, NOT zero- as keeping slight tension on the spring preserved its calibration

This has worked for over 20 years and still in calibration when tested
I have also read that you are supposed to keep some tension on the spring, and not store it at 0 ft-lbs.
Old 08-21-2008 | 01:14 PM
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your right, I miss typed my sentence its suppose to be a 10 ft lb. instead of 0, I usually leave it around 10 to 20 ft. lbs
Old 08-21-2008 | 07:19 PM
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From: YVR
Originally Posted by FirePR2002
i've heard both schools of thought on this one. I usually back mine down to zero before putting it away, but would be interested in knowing the "proper" way. The 10lbs from the Snap-On man seems official, but it also seems to reason that over time, the spring might wear or stretch with tension on it.
Well, different makes may have different min. storage torque setting requirement due to difference in design and/or construction materials. So always read the accompanied instructions.
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