So i got a 2001 ACURA TL 3.2TL I had it for over a year now and i figure i should do a Coolant,Drain,Flush & Refill this is the most Detailed video i found on this undertaking

You Tube

This guy does a lot of Good Detailed videos on his 2002 ACURA TL TYPE S '

So i already have 2 Jugs of the Acura Branded Coolant (Blue Same as the Honda) I gotta buy that Drain Valvefor the Engine block I would also like to I guess Replace The Coolant Hoses Upper & Lower Is what alot of people call them I Do need the Part number for those Hoses anybody know them? The reason i want to replace them the Car is 20 years old and i figure why not they probably are the original hoses.

However i did not see him Running Distilled Water in the Coolant System after he drained the all the Coolant from the Radiator and Engine Block Shouldn't he do That before putting in the New Coolant ???????? Also Driving the Car for a Hour Drive or just letting it sit and Idle Run the Engine to Flush out all the old Rust setiment and other Contaminants then drain out and fill with New Coolant.

Lastly do i need to Replace the Thermostat? I am the 4th owner of the car that is why i figure replace as much as i can i do not know what was serviced,replaced etc. The Car has 196xxx miles at this time.

 

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The upper and lower hose can be found on the link below:

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2002...-radiator-hose

Just type thermostat into the search bar and it will find it for you.
If you don't go expensive OEM, and instead purchase from a cheaper local parts store, write down the OEM part#'s for the part(s) you want.
Don't rely on the counter monkeys to find the parts for you based on your model & year. Providing accurate OEM part #'s, to them, will hopefully minimize the risk of receiving incorrect aftermarket parts.

 

So that link you sent is me is labled 2002 Acura TL SEDAN (They are all the same 1999-2003) they should be right? but when i went and changed it from 2002 to my Actual Car year which is 2001 i get this page https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2001...ter-hose-00-03 with different part numbers such as
Hose B, Water
19522-P8E-A00

Hose A, Water
19521-P8A-A00

versus the parts that show up on the page you gave a link for which was a 2002 that are listed as Hose, Water (Upper)
19501-P8C-A00

Hose, Water (Lower)
19502-P8E-A00


So are these parts listed on both these links the Same parts????? but just labled different names and numbers for just a 1 year difference???

 

replacing these parts now before you have to is a great idea! and if you've got it all apart, might as well replace the thermostat.

rock auto has great prices and reliable parts on all of the items you are asking about. I would definitely check that out and there is also a 5% off coupon here in the forum.

heck..here it is:

https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsor...2020-a-988494/

Lastly, I wouldn't go through all the work to get coolant out the back of the engine block, you may want to flush with distilled to rinse out/dilute whatever's left...just my

I would strongly suggest: getting a spill proof funnel to help you burp the system once you have it all back together and are refilling. ussually baout $20-25 on amazon and save you a lot of headache with getting the last of the air out.

 

^^
If you are replacing the upper and lower 'radiator' hoses, then my link is correct. Many different models can potentially use the same parts.

If you scroll down to the 'vehicle fitment' area, on any specific part you choose, there you will find all of the models and years that use that part, real simple.

Your links, showing for water hose A & B, are smaller coolant lines for the 'throttle body'.

 

So i am confused are you saying not to drain the old coolant out of the Engine Block through the Drain Bolt Valve on the Engine Block??? Isn't the proper thing to do is Drain The Coolant from the Engine Block via the Engine Block Drain Valve? As well as the little plastic wing valve on the Radiator??? If you flush the coolant out of the Block with Distilled water how does it get out of the Block without Draining it out through the Engine Block Drain Valve bolt??????? So if i understand what you are saying is to not open the Engine Block Drain Valve at all???????????

 

That engine block drain bolt is really hard access (from ground). I was going to drain block coolant when I replaced my radiator, but after seeing the extra disassembly required and access struggle, I decided it was not worth my time/effort for some old coolant that could be neutralized over time with some radiator drain and fills. If you really want to do it, go for it. It is the proper thing to do. Make sure that drain hose is on snug lol

 

That video i posted has the Procedure yeah it looks like a B**** to do but who knows how much rust/corrosion is left in the block i feel better peace of mind that i did all i could short of Rebuilding The Engine which i hope will not be for a very very long time.

 

Currently doing my timing belt/water pump and was going to access that coolant drain block but decided fuck it since I was pulling off the WP anyway


Can confirm it is a royal PITA to get to... even with timing covers out of the way...

 

So if i drain all the coolant out of Just the radiator then fill it up with Distilled Water Drive the Car for like 1 hour then Drain that out will that Flush out all that was in the Engine Block??? I assume the more times you Refill the Radiator with Distilled water-Drive for 1 hour and Drain will flush/clean out the Block Better?
I am assuming do it until water comes out Clear as can Be with no rust color or blue color is the way it should be done am i right?
It does make sense because what you put in the Radiator also gets into the Engine Block Duhhh!!!! to me.

I was actually about to order a New Engine Drain Block Valve Bolt..........But now that you guys are telling me this it makes sense that as long as you do Multiple Drain & Fills with Distilled Water that will eventually Flush/Clean/take out all the Bad shit in the Engine Block and that there is no actual need to Drain out the Block through the Engine Drain Block Valve Bolt.

I have never done a Thermostat Replacement on THIS CAR but i have on others is it Hard to do on this 2001 ACURA TL????????
I guess i should replace that thermostat hose as well anybody got the part number?

 

I wouldn't even drive it around. Just rev it to kick on the system


I'd do thermostat while you've got the system apart. Its easy, just double check orientation and replace the seal. Remove air intake hose/boot for super easy access.
Part number(s) from site I use: Thermostat (Nippon) 19301-P8E-A10 Seal 19305-PR7-A00
From this site: eHonda Store Site (Water Pump System 2001 TL)

 

Yeah i keep thinking about that F****** Engine Coolant Drain Valve, Dammed if i do Drain it Because of the PITA it is But Dammed if i Don't because that Rust that is just hanging out in the block will contaminate the New Coolant that i put in. So here is my Plan my Plan is do the the FOLLOWING ATLEAST 2 to 3 Times Fill it up with Distilled Water run it till it has Circulated the Entire Cooling System including the Engine block then drain atleast 3 Times It will be time consuming but you guys all say it is worth not having to Drain that Engine Drain Block. MY OCD KEEPS ME THINKING ABOUT THAT RUST THAT IS STILL LEFT BEHIND IN THE ENGINE BLOCK CONTAMINATING THE NEW COOLANT I PUT IN:

So Can the whole system Really be Drained out of Just the Radiator Drain Plastic Petcock valve? so there is no need to drain the Engine Drain Valve? I guess i feel alot better hearing someone tell me Yes as long as it's true LOL

I am just waiting for the Thermostat,Spill Proof Funnel from amazon should be here Tuesday. Is there any brand of Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses i should use? Amazon has all 3 Brands i just want whoever made the OEM Hoses because i think well i am going to assume that the hoses on now are Original could that be possible? i mean if they are were talking 20 Year old Upper & Lower Hoses

Is the Lower Radiator hose the hose that connects to the Thermostat??? Or is that a seperate hose i need to order as well if so do you know the Part Number?

 

Deep breath. Remember that this is coolant we're talking about. The new coolant will neutralize most of the bad 'stuff' that is created by the rust. Most coolant systems of this age have some rust present, but usually so minimal it doesn't effect anything. Before you think and plan yourself into circles, pull some of the current coolant from the radiator drain and inspect it for signs of rust particulates. Check for visible pieces and then use paper coffee filter test. If you cannot detect signs of rust, I would not worry any further. If just the idea of the possibility of rust is really gonna bug you, then I recommend taking it to Honda dealer and having them flush the system for peace of mind.
Draining only from the radiator will not drain the entire system. There will still be coolant in the overflow reservoir (actually an active part of our pressurized system) and in the engine block.
The thermostat is on the lower hose. I used Gates brand for both my upper and lower hoses.
Upper Hose Part Number: 19501-P8C-A00
Lower Hose Part Number: 19502-P8E-A00
From This Site: Honda eStore (2001 TL Radiator Hose)

You got this covered. That car is lucky to be in your care.

 

The block is made out of aluminum, so there should not be a rust issue.

 

But is there really no Metal to Coolant contact anywhere in the Entire Cooling System?

 

?? I don't quite understand what you're asking. Are you asking if it touches any iron in the system? Zeta was referring to aluminum not producing rust. The coolant touches metal in the engine block and the radiator, but they should both be made out of aluminum.

 

I think you're overthinking this. Unless you think your coolant is contaminated (wrong coolant, oil in the system, etc.) I wouldn't worry too much about the small amount remaining. As suggested, you can run some distilled water to dilute the old stuff and get most of it out. Bear in mind that you'll now have some trapped water in the block that will lower the coolant "mixture". Again not a huge deal.

As for the video, the guy did open the block drain to get all of the coolant out. Again, no real need to flush unless you suspect some contamination. If you have oil in your cooling system, you have a bigger problem than some old coolant.

I can't say for sure (perhaps the others will clarify), the only steel will be some of the fittings and the impeller on the water pump.

 

The Vehicle is fine Mechanically no gasket leaks or anything like that. But i just don't feel right half A***** what should be done right It would be like just rinsing your mouth with mouthwash but not brushing your teeth if that analogy works for you. I am gonna try and probably be hurt with life and frustration because of it but oh well,Hell i even bought the Clear Tubing same kind he says in the video like 3 weeks ago and i have 8 Gallons of Distilled water to do 4 Flushes I hope i don't round off that dam drain bolt on the block. The car has 196xxx miles and its 20 years old i think it needs to be done remember unless you have Receipts from the previous owner ASSUME THE WORST!!!!!!!!

 

Ok, but how do you plan to get fluid out of the heater core? It’s fine that you want to do it according to the video (and the process matches what the service manual instructs) but it’s a diminishing return for sure.

Besides, if you have rust and other contaminates, you’d prob be better off flushing the system with distilled water a couple of times to get all of that stuff out of there (depending on the severity).

 

Isn't that why you Turn the Heater On to the Maximum to Open up the Heater Core and flow the Coolant through the Heater Core??????


Like i said ASSUME THE CAR HAS THE ORIGINAL COOLANT FROM 2001 NEVER BEEN DRAINED AND REFILLED UNLESS YOU HAVE RECEIPTS.
Remember the Car is 20 Years old 196xxx miles (which is nothing to a Honda Product) So given the Age and Mileage That alone should WARRANT a Engine Drain Bolt Draining of the Engine Block. Aside from draining the Engine Block i am also gonna FILL UP the Radiator at least 3 seperate times with Distilled Water Run the Engine and Drain, That means Draining the Engine Block 4 Times total. Just Loosening the Engine Block Drain Bolt not even removing it all the way. I am even gonna use my Transfer Pump to Drain Out as Much Liquid as possible Before Putting in the New Blue Coolant.

 

I mean I'm definitely no expert but it really seems like you're overthinking this. Do you have like chunks of rust coming out when you dip your finger into the fluid or something?
Mine's a '99, so 21 years old here. I don't run Honda coolant, just regular stuff. No rust anywhere on the car, definitely none in the coolant. I've done a coolant replacement without all this extra work you're putting in, and I'm not having any issues.

 

I am guilty of being a overthinker for sure i will admit it yeah you just never know i mean Year 20 years of age and usage I just think it warrants it but then again i am just being way too cautious. The lowest point of the Cooling System is the Engine Drain Bolt on the Block so it makes sense to drain there to get as much as possible out of the system, If not rust then just old coolant with unknown particulate out of the system.

 

For what it's worth, your plan of doing the DI drain & fill five times will get your engine's cooling system cleaner than I think anyone elses's 2nd gen on this website.
I still think you're over-doing it, but it's your car and you seem dead-set on doing things this way.

 

I am gonna try if i just can't get to that drain bolt then i will say F*** it and just do the Drain and Fill with Distilled water 4 times, Install the new Thermostat and new Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses with new Blue Coolant and Done. I know the Engine Drain Bolt is Definitely the hardest thing to do in this Procedure. Gonna Start Friday I gotta have it done by Sunday for Monday it is my Commuter car to work MON-FRI 550 miles a week round trip.

 

That's the spirit. Different model, RDX 2008, no engine bolt. Recently doing it yearly. Using concentrate first to compensate for the distilled water remaining inside the block.
If you have a multimeter, check the voltage between battery negative and rad cap or radiator coolant for reference after so many years. It will tell you how bad the coolant could be.


don't run too long with water, pressure and temp build up very quickly, it will force you to wait hours to cool off before draining again, each drain.

 

bad news guys my alternator gave out today that cancels the flush & drain planned for this weekend.
Check out the thread about replacing my Alternator here at this link for any helpful advice.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-.../#post16611271

 

you can do both at the same time .

 

OKAY GUYS I PAID A MECHANIC TO REMOVE AND INSTALL A NEW ALTERNATOR IT WAS SO FUCKING WORTH IT!!!!!!!!!!
I AM STICKING TO ONLY DOING OIL CHANGES AND TRANSMISSION DRAIN'n'FILLS AND THAT IS IT.
BTW I ALSO TRIED DRAINING THAT ENGINE DRAIN BOLT AND YOU GUYS WERE RIGHT FUCK THAT SHIT!!!!!!!!!!

So i am going to have my Mechanic Replace the TIMING BELT and i will also pay him to Drain the Engine Coolant Drain Valve I need to know where to buy the TIMING BELT KIT That includes the water pump and everything else necessary. should i just buy it from HONDA/ACURA OEM Because my Mechanic Told me i can do that but if i have him get the Parts He WARRANTIES THEM if I BUY them he only WARRANTIES THE LABOR OF THE JOB. So in My Possession i got a New Thermostat,Thermostat Gasket, New Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses,8 Gallons of Distilled water for Multiple Flushes and 2 Jugs of the ACURA OEM TYPE 2 Coolant. I just need to know the Part Number for the Timing Belt kit with water pump OEM What site??????????????
TL88 is online now Report Post

 

I think that most of the parts sites are all just about the same prices; you'll want to find one that has more favorable shipping for where you are located.

my opinion here: I would go with oem; simply because it's such a critical part in keeping the engine running without major damage. Though others on may feel differently.

I think that some people here may know of a 3rd party parts supplier on rock auto that has oem quality (for example, the denso radiator on rock auto is exactly the same as the honda oem for like 1/2 the price)

 

WOW GUYS I DID IT I GOT THE FUCKING ENGINE COOLANT DRAIN VALVE OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I had to use a Small 1/4" Drive Ratchet and a 12mm socket(six sided socket not star shaped) I had to Literally lie under my Disc Brake The Disc was pretty much cutting my throat,stick my arm so far up under that little area and crack the Engine Block Coolant Drain Bolt. You just gotta willing to get your Back arms and knuckles cut up but it is doable.
However i will never attempt a Alternator Removal and Install. That i just won't do I ran 8 jugs of Distilled Water so what came out the Block was very diluted light blue coolant.

 

Nice work. Are you going to get the water pump replaced too then?

 

Aisin supplies an outstanding timing belt kit!

 

That's the one I got! Haven't installed it yet cuz of that darn crank pulley bolt but I've heard great things about it. Pretty sure the one in my Avalon is from Aisin too, and that thing's chugging along.

 

6 months from now my mechanic will replace the timing belt and water pump.

 

*Finding* and removing the engine block drain was one of the most rewarding DIYs I did. As for the flush, I used our excellent tap water. A hose in the radiator plus running the car for ten minutes.