Finally had a chance to do the coolant flush (well not in its entirety). A few months ago, I tried to unbolt the engine drain and could not get to it. So this weekend, I just drained and filled the radiator. The coolant that came out, I was surprised was still crystal clear looking (green). Although, I was seeing tiny aluminum flakes swirling around.

It has been 60K miles since I have owned tha car and have not done the coolant flush.

I ended up using a gallon of the Honda pre-mixed coolant (which has been sitting on my shelf for year).

Flushed it with tap water a bit and then loaded up the coolant.

The drain cock was easily unscrewed and put back, I need to make sure it is not leaking. Or else, I might need to use the thread sealer (which I forgot to do, sheet!).

I saw a small coolant puddle in the garage... shoot!!!!

 

I did that too. DO I NEED TO BURP RADIATOR AFTER I AM DONE??? I didn't do anything.

 

If you drained through the engine block drain, then you need to. If you just drained the radiator, then no burping required, I think. But there's a simple purging procedure.

 

I'd still burp it because the lower radiator hose would trap air.

 

Burping required then. Will do it this weekend.

 

There's a relief valve on top of the upper radiator area that is used for burping...I believe the process is to run the engine and get it to heat up, meaning the fan turns on...and release valve until free flowing coolant comes out with no air...while the radiator cap is open....I have to check the manual.

 

There are two relief valves. One by the firewall.
Yes, run the car with full heat on and burp.

 

And if you do not purge the air, what would the symptoms be, other than obviously heat exchange is not optimized. Hot air is not too hot, even set at high?

 

If there are bubbles, your engine will heat up and needle will go above normal position.
That will in turn will cause the head gaskets to blow eventually.

 

Purging coming right up!!!

 

So like watch out for the TEMP needle, should stay on NORM like in the middle....if it starts shooting up...bad sign....

 

Yes.
also, when the car has warmed up, both upper and lower rad hoses should be warm.
The fan coming on after a while is also a good sign.

 

the car idle surges up and down if there is air in the system. When burping it, I'd suggest letting the fans run for 3 cycles. As for your temp needle, it isn't supposed to fluctuate once at operating temp. In that case... use OEM thermostats only. I know my aftermarket thermostat fluctuates just the tiniest bit which still bothers me. I'll be trading it for an OEM one soon.