B1ackKn1ght1979

I was driving down the road the other day with no issues when I had the CEL light come on along with the VTS. No issues with with acceleration at that time. I cleared the codes and it came right back after a few miles. Cleared again (I was on a trip) - same thing but the next day. So, long story short I'm driving to work the other day (no issues, no lights) and get on the freeway, hit the accelerator to get to freeway speed (70-80mph) and the engine revs (transmission seems to be in neutral even though it's set on Drive) - then jumps down to 2nd or 3rd with high rpms - then back to neutral and so on. I pulled over and shut the car off, restarted and was able to limp to work - It seemed to me the VTS was trying to limit the acceleration due to the issue that was occuring.....so I disabled the VTS by pulling a fuse....this has worked for a temp. solution.....in searching this forum I see on some of the other models the APP sensor needs to be replaced in this situation (VTS trying to control the car's sudden jump of acceleration because the sensor's lack of sense? lol).....however on the 2002 TL TYPE-S I cannot find the part number - only the whole Throttle Body - I would imagine this is a simple part to replace and there must be a generic number for this part - any ideas, thoughts help??? I love my TL with 249k miles on it - it is my daily driver and in EXCELLENT shape.....Thanks to all in advance - B1ackKn1ght

Skirmich

OK So Basically your saying the VSA is trying to Stop Acceleration like if you were Slipping/Losing Traction but In a normal Basis?

The VSA does have a Sensor but it Works just like a TPS So it know exactly how much Air is Stopping from entering the Engine. The TRUE Sensors are the ABS which Detect each Wheel Rotation then that Sends a Signal to the VSA System enabling the Traction Control to Work.

Have you Pulled the Codes??

B1ackKn1ght1979

No I haven't I'll try to do that tomorrow. Thanks for the reply - I've been trying to track down a TPS / APP sensor with little luck - found one that 'might' work - part number jt3r 60659 (claims it works on 02 TL TYPE-S). I'll see if I can't get codes tomorrow. Thanks!!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Why would you only clear codes from the ECM and not read them? Didnt you know that's the whole purpose of the MIL...to give you a clue as to what's going on. That's done so that you're not simply guessing as to what the problem could be as you are now.

Oh, and by the way, 2G TL's don't have APP sensors. That's considered a "fly by wire" system. The 2G is a traditional TB design that's controlled by a cable governed by the accelerator pedal. The only thing "electronic" about our throttle body's is the actuator at the front of the throttle body that's also called a sub-throttle. It works simply by restricting air (more specifically torque being applied to the wheels) to the engine thus effectively helping to regain traction.

01tl4tl

we have TPS throttle position sensor which is a rare failure

sounds more like trans prob..revving slipping bangs down to 2nd,,,,
when you say it `Limped to work`,,was it in limp mode?
ie: rpm restricted to 3000 by the ecu?
it will do that if it thinks engine overrev,,mine gave that code when trans was slipping,,fooled ecu = all it knew was something was spinning to fast
Our engine has overrev protection so thats not likely to happen

how is the atf fluid level and color- do you ever change it?
miles on car- trans- original?

01tl4tl

were you getting on the freeway about 25-35mph--trans already in 2nd or 3rd gear
and stood on it?
then it acted up?
watch the dash for a flashing D5 light it it happens again

B1ackKn1ght1979

Okay, thanks for all posts.....I just checked the code.....looks like P0740 was the only code in the system. I haven't checked ABS codes yet.....

fsttyms1

It has nothing to do with tcs or vsa. Your trans is on its way out.. for what ever reason acura has the tsc/vsa light come on for most things,even those non trans related issues.

B1ackKn1ght1979

Okay, to clarify - I cleared the codes because this car has been great and I've never had an issue - I thought it was a fluke....When it came back I was a bit more worried. It may have been in limp mode - I have not had this happen again - I did take it real easy getting into work and then removed one of the TCS/VCS fuses which has since made the car react normally (no more weird stuff like on Monday). I would have been driving about that speed though (25-35ish) and then got on it about 1/2 to 1/3 of the way into the peddle to get up to 80mph when this happened (typical driving for me I did not notice the D5 light at this point since I was more concerned that someone was going to hit me when I couldn't accelerate into traffic - I have noticed this come on once in a while (the light would flash breifly - bump the shifter and it would go solid - I took it into the Dealer right after the recall and they of course claimed they couldn't duplicate it - It continued to happen randomly since then but never threw a light). Once in a while I'd have the engine in drive and floor it and the car didn't engage the gear (already moving at 30mph or so - floor it and it revs up instead of shifts or accelerates). So with the P0740 I'll do some digging on the forum and see what I come up with - sounds like a Torque Converter Solenoid.....hopefully easy to swap ?? Thanks again.

B1ackKn1ght1979

Oh, I forgot to mention it has been a year or two since I had the fluid done at the dealers. This trans has 136k on it (car has 249k miles on it - runs great, drives great except for this issue.)

B1ackKn1ght1979

So is this an actual Torque Converter problem (fairly cheap fix) or a Trans problem (expensive fix). I'm looking around the forum trying to determine this - I know you guys have way more experience than I do on this stuff - I've owned this car for 3 to 4 years and love it - even with 249k miles I hate to get rid of it - Thoughts??

B1ackKn1ght1979

Looked a little more and it does seem like I'd need a Trans and possibly replacement T/C....a real bummer since this is my daily driver and I do drive a bunch for work. Anybody interested in buying it?? I don't have a place to work on it (condo community) - I could probably replace it if I had the time and the space along with tools to do it - the parts seem cheap enough (rebuild the trans and then replace the t/c). I'd need to get $4500-5000 for it so I could replace it with a, 'cough', 'decent' car....Thanks again for the posts.

B1ackKn1ght1979

Okay, so last night a co-worker who works on cars alot (not necessarily Acura's)...recommended getting Seafoam Trans Tune and adding that to the Trans Fluid. I did (about 8oz). Then drove home after clearing the lights and putting the VSA fuse back in. It drove okay. This morning driving in the lights came back on (no high revving this time as I was cautious getting into the throttle). I did accelerate a little harder a little later on and had the high revving issue with no accelerator response. However, after stopping at another place and shutting the car off - when I came back out and started it the VSA and /!\ were off but the CEL was on.....I'm going to recheck codes again.....I'm going to drive it with the seafoam in the trans for another 50 to 100+ miles and then get the trans fluid changed. I am checking to see if there is a filter than I can have cleaned (just as an extra step) - otherwise fluid change and add Lucas Trans Fluid additive to help keep things moving along - I'll update as I figure this out.

01tl4tl

why do you bother coming to us for advice when you listen to someone
who is NOT an acura TL gen2 expert..like this forum is

The problem with your trans is the clutch disc pack/stack are worn out
(think stack of cd's with alternating friction and smooth pieces,,with friction gone)
each gear has its own set, 2nd and 3rd being the weak links

seafoam will help a good trans stay good,,must change ALL of the fluid after its added--not just 1 time of 3.4 qts
it will NOT fix your problem
Neither will adding lucas thickener to it!

yes there is an external replaceable filter for the trans $25 beck-arnley

the reason driving gently has kept you going is simple--there was a little bit of friction remaining,,that D5 light was trying to warn you
the slip-rev-thing were all major symptoms of impending failure

This trans will act up one day and be fine for two weeks then act up,,
may go for months like this until that final day... when its going no more

No you cant pop the trans apart and drop in a TCC,,
its total overhaul/rebuild time, approx $1800 min $2500 average

A better option being used by many is a junkyard trans from certain years accord or oddessy,,pretty much bolt in job,,part 750,,shop labor about the same

give you $4gs for a used up TL with no trans???,,,,riiiight

01tl4tl

part of the no response to throttle- park, and car ok again:
Is loose clutch particulate matter floating around- gets flung into the filter screens for fluid coming out of the torque convertor- to run the shifting system
No pressure coming out means no shift
Letting car sit 15-30 minutes allows crud to gravity drain back off the screens and allow short distance more travel

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

You said its been an entire year possibly two since you've had the fluid changed? I'm sorry to say but you will need a transmission. The fluid is not designed to go very long inside the transmission very long (regardless what the manual says) because of the amount of heat these things produce it breaks the fluid down fast. I would NEVER go more than 3 months on a drain and fill...just saying that gives me the chills! :-) It is a slight possibility you will need a solenoid (torque converter or pressure control solenoid C) but the first last words at the bottom of the P0740 flow chart read "replace transmission and torque converter".

B1ackKn1ght1979

I understand what you are saying - I just need to buy some time and keep this going a bit longer. That D5 light flashing has been doing that since the day the dealer replaced the trans with the one that is currently in the car - so, either they didn't do something right or it was bad to start with - either way I'm hosed because the trans is way out of WTY and I still owe on the car and I drive this daily and put many miles on it regularly. Again, thanks for the help - I am just trying to limp this along until I figure out what to do.

B1ackKn1ght1979

Well, that is news to me on how often it's recommended to change the trans fluid - never, ever had this issue with any other vehicle I've owned in the last 20 years....thanks for the heads up - I'll be sure to get the wife's mini-van in asap to have this done and stay on top of it. Just one more thing to spend money on :p - oh well.

Skirmich

P0740 = DEAD TRANNY 98% OF THE TIME....

The only way to prolong the inevitable is to do an ATF Change and Drive carefully in SS (DONT DRIVE IN AUTO D5) The Main Reason is becouse Auto Shifts Depends on TPS Location but in SS it doesnt give a Damn.... You need to change Gears ASAP and Drive in the Top Gear all the Time.

IMO: This is just Wasting Money.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

^^^
Great advice on the SS suggestion...very smart indeed.

Same reason why I ONLY use SS with nitrous!

eddie02tl-s

Last time i had a p0740 i had to replace the trans

Michael Hinchey

So if I'm going to get a trans flush or a 3x3 done do u think seafoam helps prior to this being done? If so can I add it straight to the check stick? Thx

thoiboi

Don't add random crap to your trans, it's fragile
Enough as is.

Michael Hinchey

I did add it to the fuel and oil though. Seems to drive smoother but could be just my brain playing trickson me . Haha

SuperGreg

It's worth trying a drain/fill. My tranny started acting up really badly (torque converter jerking terribly, bad shifting, all lights on the dash on), at the time I had 170K miles on the car and did not realize I should be changing the fluid so often. I did a drain/fill, drove it and it was virtually the same. Did another drain/fill, most of the problems were gone so I drove it to work for another week, cleaned all the solenoids/screens/external filter, did another drain/fill, and kept doing this until the fluid started looking normal when I drained it. Made it to 203K now and it's working alright.

Michael Hinchey

After reading this thread again, I realize it is time to get my trans done again. I think this was about 4 yrs ago. At the time, they prob. only did a drain and fill to it, im not really sure. I looked at the trans color and it is on the slightly brownish in color side. Few things to clear up tho. The Acura dealer said they would only do a drain and fill while another shop that I normally goto said they can get usually 9-10 qts out. They wont do a three by three dump and fill till it looks normal. So my questions are, do I pay the xtra money and get the dealer to do the D & F three times or the other shop to do it twice or so? Or just get the ATF done by the non dealer once is enough and in a year or two get it done again? THX