ghuns- actually- they both run with ac on- our usual question is- does passenger side fan run with ac, AND/ OR does it run for more than 1-2 minutes after shutdown of engine? like 10-15 minutes?
that points to fan sensor A, which will make fan run sometimes,, but not always when its needed = like with ac ON!

 

On mine, with AC running, the passenger side fan runs all the time.

The drivers side fan only comes on when the temperature hits about 204°F.

 

So still saving to take to mechanic, but as of the last couple days, when coming to a stop from 2nd to 1st gear i believe is hanging and than slamming mildly hard into 1st. Hasn't done it continually but was a WTF kinda moment. any ideas??

also noticed the fans are coming on more than normal when car is off. was in the garage and heard fans after being inside for 10+ mins and the fans were still running. all the sensors are new so doubt its a sensor.

 

Definitely a WTF !!! Any codes ? Any other tranny or fluid issues ?

Try cleaning solenoid screens and check their connectors.
Have the mounts inspected.

 

i'm pretty sure the solenoid are the ones right under the thermostat housing on the 99, am i correct?? also how many of them are there that need to be cleaned??

no visible fluid leaks but haven't check the fluid itself.

 

Remember its having high idle issues of course it will slam into gear and the more you drive it like that the more you hurt the transmission. Forget solenoids and other stuff work on the idle first.

 

^^^ Yeah, as ErickUa5 said.....ya gotta get the motor's idle under control, otherwise the tranny's gonna slam and do weird shit for ya. First things.....first !!!

 

also noticed the fans are coming on more than normal when car is off. was in the garage and heard fans after being inside for 10+ mins and the fans were still running. all the sensors are new so doubt its a sensor.

Bori: driver fan running 10 minutes after shutdown is classic failed fan temp sensor A
99 at thermostat. later years lower right/passenger corner of rad
I don't care if its new, new parts fail !
spray clean contact area inside clips, and make sure wire clips are on tight!

if the rad is low on fluid it will trick the fan sensor
every time you need to add fluid to rad there is possibility of air in the system = tricks fan sensor

 

no fluid lose in radiator, i'll replace the sensor again should be under warranty.

 

just cking- any leak at res bottle has been cured? no drips, and has system been pressure tested yet?

I have experienced and read recently of a bad contact inside a wire connector =
drive you crazy looking for problem- remove each wire and wiggle- pull- spray clean with CRC, make sure its solid or replace it
Bad grounds will mess with sensor readings, if not done yet- go thru and clean all the small wires frame to engine and the batt cables
Your batt cables are good- no crud growing inside after a decade of abuse?
bad voltage will mess with sensors!! good grounds make the car run good ~

 

Crazy that it rarely does that getting stuck drop in gear anymore, havent felt in a couple days, and other weird thing is i haven't felt the shudder/shaking it was doing from slowing down from 45-40mph as if some pressure or something was released, now if i pay attention i can feel a slight/super minimal shake at the speed but nothing like the violent shaking it was doing. Gonna double check all my clamps during the weekend change out any old ones for all hoses. Haven't had money to take to mechanic yet, just wanted to post change in behavior see if anything clicked to anyone.

 

we are your mechanic!
just need updates on testing done like cking for coolant loss in cylinders = remove spark plugs and crank engine

but
that fan runs 10 minutes after is classic failed fan temp sensor A,
have you done a full ground wire cleaning and replace as necessary? there are several small grounds frame to engine
weak or broken ground wires cause many running problems as sensors need good ground to send solid info to ECU
Is temp still running just below half? when are rising temp issues occurring now?

 

within the next couple weekends trying to tackle some of these simpler things.

cranking the engine without spark plugs is to see if any liquids spits out correct??

i know i replaced that fan switch last year but will do again since its under warranty. Going to check the timing as well make sure my marks are on point, will check water pump seal as well while i am there. I get paid next week so going to put in the irdium NGK as well. I know i had a loose ground on the tranny side that i connected back to body and i've seen the ground on the thermostat and thats there but not sure where the other end leads to.

where would the grounds be placed on the body on that side of engine bay?? i was thinking of just putting an extra wire to the thermostat ground and ground it to the body, would that make a difference??

 

there is a diy if you want to add grounds- there are better points than 2nd one to thermostat
I don't have a diagram- so look for grounds and you will find them- braided are pretty easy to spot and 5 total iirc!
when you find one remove it at both ends and clean all contact surfaces with sandpaper to a shiny surface, then reattach- test with multimeter for resistance before install- wires go bad inside or the braided ones almost shred!
the bolts should be clean or replaced too

yes that's what I meant on spark plug removal and cranking to watch for coolant blowout = head gasket leak (with ign fuse and fuel pump relay removed so it cant start a fire!)
You are no longer using any coolant? level stays good in res bottle- transfer hose is good and connected, rad cap is tested good or new- and tested~
I don't remember where we are with your car anymore!!

Due to primary- driver fan staying on after shutdown 10 minutes = -more than a few minutes at normal temp = sticking with fan sensor A failure,
and/or coolant loss causing air bubble to trick fan sensor A!

how long ago was the loose trans grounds wire incident? that could have hurt a fan relay or sensor?? (thinking outside the box)- have you tried swapping relay- one of same color is same unit and swappable

have you tested vac holding ability of front and rear motor mounts- to remove them as potential `engine miss` makers

 

Hey man, don't feel alone.
There's plenty of simple stuff to check first. Especially checking any previous work done.
It's usually the small stuff that can make one stumble. Just do one thing at a time and see what happens.

If the IAC is working correctly, that will help. Retaining coolant level is critical along with the system's operating pressure. The first thing to consider doing would be having the cooling system pressure checked and also a leakdown test on the cylinders. Do this before dumping alot more of money on replacing parts.

~ On a side note: Sure hope there's been an ongoing log by OP of what's been tried, while attempting to "fix" these ongoing problems being experienced. Sometimes troubleshooting can be a bit boggling and it's easy to lose focus. But, don't beat yourself up and resort to the "shotgun" approach.

 

one of the reasons I said no dealer tech on this one!
they would start all over- even if a complete log of your efforts was sitting on the seat! oh that- we didn't see that~