The green one on this pic. Its associated with the evap code you're getting.

 

Yeah, some deep do dah shit here.......HELP !!! anybody ??? Professionals......techs, idk.

 

Full automatic was doing fine going 80 the whole way I just rarely us ac but had the kids and car did great till it came to the exit. Right away slowing down you could tell something was wrong cause literally it looked as if i was revving it myself but my foot wasnt on the pedal once i did give it gas it would grab on as if slipping but wasnt that hard grab like when the tranny failing cause its less than 10k on the rebuild. Once I turned ac off after like 5 mins car went back to normal. Opened hood when I stopped no boilover coolant was at same level as far as I can tell. Would a messed up iacv cause the tranny to behave that way?

 

Have the codes read, could be the Throttle Position Sensor ??? IDK

 

Of course it will, It controls up to 3500 RPM if I remember.
Have you looked at the hose I pointed out ?

 

yea all hoses are connected.

 

Well heres my last thought on this, recheck all your gaskets on the intake plenum you may be missing one.
Remember even if you didn't touch that part maybe the previous owner did so its best if you check it. Lastly the service manual is going to be your best friend here and don't over tighten any of the bolts in hopes of sealing a leak, might just strip something.
Good luck.

 

Every single gasket in the diagram has been replaced, which actually the only sensor i haven't changed is that IAT sensor, would that do anything like this??

 

Not that I know of.
Can you take a few pictures of the throttle body and around the plenum, maybe I can spot something.
Change the IACV for a new one if all else fails.

 

i'm gonna get the codes read again in case something popped up during my recent trip.

 

Try a different auto parts, since the last one didn't give you the correct information about the TPS %, also try to write down the rest of the info then post back, Like ECT, IAT, STFT and LTFT. If possible

 

can the tps be tested with multimeter??

 

thats a rare failure but I do believe there is a multimeter testing spec for them
try the search or better sometimes is an outside search engine with + (your year TL) +acurazine.com or yahoo search for testing tps on blahblah
3 letter items wont search with our system but outside ones will find them

was this the car with corrosion in the area iacv rotates? was that cleaned and made smooth? iirc something about loose fit?

Note:the upper-most gasket for intake manifold to manifold top cover- its easy to install gasket upside down, blocking a needed port
cant see the prob on manifold side, looks correct and bolts up,
match gasket to cover to verify all is well

torque spec for intake manifold to engine is 16 foot pounds, do not exceed!
if gaskets recently replaced- or thermoblock kit installed- recheck bolt torque after 500 miles (that info is for other users searching for help in the future)

 

Just checking things off the list, i've replaced every intake and throttle body seal and triple checked that its on the right way. my throttle cables have a pinch of slack, but still feels as if the car is accelerated a little once warmed up. i also get a slight rev with the trans coming to a complete stop. bounces to about 1.5k and than comes back down to 1k. Also because of this issue between 45-40 mph decelerating a get a violent shudder almost as if someone learning how to drive stick.

 

Perhaps the PCM has some issues ?
Poor communication of logic to motor and/or tranny ?

Clear the codes, then have the codes read by someone with a scan reader tool capable of freeze frame data. This is the simplest way to know if the TPS is within it's operating range.

If ya want to attempt checking the TPS by yourself....using a multimeter, then ya will need the Factory Service Manual to properly reference it's testing procedure.

 

Its possible to test the TPS with a multimeter but honestly just try another auto part or buy a scanner that has ability to give you live data. I don't have the voltage values for a normal TPS so maybe someone can chime in on that.

You need to see what the computer is seeing to fix this issue.

 

stupid question that popped up in my head while at work. since i took out that little radiator that used to run to the airbox. does it matter which line is connected to the throttle body ends or they able to be mixed up or doesnt really matter since they both carry coolant??

 

are the coolant lines hooked up backwards? those are the TB heater lines, and in florida you actually want those
its weird science at what high ambient temps and thunderstorm amounts of moisture can cause freezing inside the TB~!

I am confused by what little radiator you removed? what have you done to this car, install a cold air intake system or just removed the large intake resonator/airbox inside left fenderwell? (not the one that holds air filter in engine compartment)

 

IAT is inlet air temp and causes ECU to make mini/many adjustments in the fuel mixture, looking at O2 readings etc as well. The air is compressed and its speed increases as it passes thru the TB throat into intake, where it reaches tornado like velocity- that causes its temp to rise

High IAT is why we install thermoblock spacers between engine and intake manifold and between intake manifold and TB- with its heated lines not helping that particular situation

 

installed an intake and the lines ran down towards the airbox so just removed them and connected them to the throttle body, just didnt know if they could be mixed up or if it even mattered they were mixed up, since it all flows with coolant anyway.

also the iat is the only sensor in that area i haven't replaced. so proably do that once i get paid next week, since it was also a little gunky on the connector as well.

 

It's all about the relative humidity ratio to air, along with a correct barometric pressure balance.
Swap the hoses and all will be well........maybe, who knows ? Worth a try at this point, IMO.

 

Gonna cave and take it to the mechanics in a month when i get the funds, have him deal with the issue. If by chance the heads are messed up what would a general range to get it repaired be??

 

If you don't gather evidence you wont come to a conclusion.
I guess changing the heads would probably cost more than the car IMO.
The information the ECU will give may help to fix the bouncing idle, TPS and ECT being the most important ones.

Have a look at the throttle body and make sure the adjustment screw looks exactly like this. (It should never be adjusted) maybe the last owner was messing with it. Again the TPS on a scanner with live data can show if its off.

 

I'll take a look at it, from read this on another forum "The diagnostic procedure for the code P0505 usually includes inspecting the idle air control system components, checking the IAC valve power supply voltage, inspecting electrical connectors and wiring, as well as testing the idle air control system with a scan tool.
Sometimes the carbon deposits in the idle air control valve can cause it to be stuck open or closed. Sometimes even low coolant level can cause the idle fluctuation and the code P0505. Problems with the EGR and EVAP systems also can cause the code P0505
the stuck open idle air control (IAC) valve or broken power steering pressure switch wire can cause the idle to fluctuate, with the code P0505. As a solution Honda recommends replacing the IAC valve or (and) repair the power steering pressure switch wire located right above the steering rack boot on the passenger side of the vehicle. " says power steering pressure switch could cause idle issues too, anyone heard of this??

 

I also read that too so you may want to have a look at it, just follow the high pressure hose until you see the sensor with 2 wires going to it.

 

If ya gave it your best shot cleaning the carbon from the intake and getting the coolant level steady, then as a last resort considering the CEL codes are inconclusive, ya may want to try another PCM or TB intake from a salvaged '99 TL with low mileage. There's no shame in leaving it to a pro, sometimes it's cheaper and quicker if ya have a good experienced mechanic. The hardest part is swallowing one's pride.

 

LOL half the pride/half the wanting to learn and do it myself but i think i'm throwing in the towel been wasting to much time and once i get this out of the way if the car behaves good might keep it. Than start focusing on dropping some coilovers and replacing the old suspension parts ball joints etc..

 

Some years have an auxiliary, or thermal idle control, with 2 little coolant hoses going to it. If you have this type, it's on or near the throttle body. If so, try blowing compressed air through it. I've seen them plug up, and cause idle problems. You blow through the coolant passage.

 

^^^ TLer trash is a good example of a well seasoned mechanic who can logically think out of the box,
unlike many of the young new techs who want to plug 'n play with your money.

This high tech shit all boils down to common basic problems, especially as cars wear with age.
Just gotta know where the hot spots are, and attempt to single out things....one by one !

 

The white flag is up, i'll take it to the family mechanic have him do his thing and hopefully nothing major comes up cause i definitely can't afford $100+ work at this moment. Will decide once he fixes it what to do with car, possibly sell it and get a newer version with better paint, that way always have the option of the AV6. Seen a couple in my area 2001+ for a little under $3k, a couple in the $2k range with messed up trannys which would be perfect to go ahead and do the swap right away. I've already learned alot about the car so would love to just have a newer year with better paint.

 

Yea you're better off taking it to the mechanic, make sure to ask where was the issue and post back with the fix if possible.

 

This forum is nothing but helpful and extremely resourceful when issues arise, so definitely will post what the issue is once i take it in, probably wont be for another month due to finances but will let everyone know once he takes care of the issue.

 

how many times have I said codes are CLUES not a Diagnosis in themselves!
often they will lead you astray if an acura guru doesn't put all the symptoms and codes together to gain a fix

Are you still having coolant loss problem? was any actual testing for blown head gasket done? ie: looking at spark plugs- cranking engine with plugs out, rad pressure test etc?

until that's resolved....

considering all the sludge and bad contacts found so far, cleaning the remaining few wires is a good idea
Only you know how bad things look in there, I have read or experienced bad connectors- loose to their wire, causing problems recently

 

No lose in coolant, no pressure test were done. when i was taking apart everything for the lower IM gaskets, i took all the connectors around and sprayed both ends with dielectric cleaner as a couple were extremely dirty. Between my own ego trying to fix it myself and the wife nagging that i'm messing with the car again i can say that taking it to the mechanic leaves me content that i tried as much as i can within my knowledge and its time to fold. I'll at least have him diagnose it, if its something major like head job or something that labor intense i'll have no choice but to do it myself but at least i'll know the route of the idle problem. Now watch it be something extremely stupid.....

 

Remember you never gave us a TPS % but here is the Normal value 9.4% just in case he might need it.

 

Hopefully its not anything major or expensive. once i get her back will drive her around get the feel of what its like to constantly drive it without acting up. May just sell her and try and get a 2000+ model and do an AV6 swap, just for my own stability with a car as i need something that i dont have to mess with every weekend and will last years. This is my first Acura and can't picture myself in something else, except maybe an RX8 but that would be more of a hobby car since i have two kids now.

 

Have your mechanic pressure check the cooling system and perform a leakdown test of the cylinders. If your heads aren't cooked, then have him run the PCM diagnostics and also check intake for vac leaks. Hopefully, the problem is something minor in nature.

If there's issues, consider a used T-body intake or even another complete motor. If this all started after the tranny rebuild, ya may want to take it back to the shop which done the work and have them recheck things.

If your present TL is repairable at reasonable costs, it may be money better spent then buying a different TL....IMO. Ya don't need another "hobby" car.

 

Subbed. Cause I think you and my teenaged son are driving the same car.

His fans were staying on and I asked him where the gauge was. He said 2 lines below half. I told him not to worry. I'd look into it over the weekend. The next day he heard it boiling coolant in the reservoir. I asked where the gauge was, again, just below half. He was only a couple miles from home so I went over, let it cool off, topped off coolant and drove home. When I shut the car off, guess where the gauge stays. Two lines below half.

His thermostat was working, so I flushed and filled with new coolant, and burped it. I have a bluetooth ODBii gadget and the Torque app for my phone so I could monitor the temp. It's been fine for almost a week. Yesterday when he got home, fans kept running and reservoir was boiling.

I am hoping that I just didn't burp it properly at this point. Just for fun, I replaced the thermostat, read up on the proper way to burp this baby, and will drive it myself for a while with the Torque app running to monitor temp. At least until I can pull the cluster and see what's up with his gauge.

I will be very interested to see what your mechanic comes up with.

 

Ya its pretty annoying, without the a/c runs fine minus the idle issue, but with the a/c on idles fine but after driving for a while seems to possibly overheat or get up there in temp, the fans constantly run compared to on and off without the a/c on.

 

It's not that bad. Try dealing with cooling issues on my Audi.

It's probably already been said, but one fan should always run when your AC is on.