So went to Advance today to get the codes read since the awesome CEL doesn't work. Came up with two codes p0505 & p1457. From reading on here the p0505 is the IACV which I replaced last year, and further research I found someone that had same code replaced it and still had same code took it to a mechanic and he ended up saying the idle screw was off. How do I know if mine is in the correct position.


the other code the p1457 something about evap.


they had an actron obdii and when I asked what the TPS was set at said it didn't read that information so couldn't get percentage.


also after replacing the heater pipe seals I smelled around to see if I smelled any coolant, seems a faint whiff is coming from the radiator cap, that cap came with the radiator so going to replace soon. any suggestions on what cap??

 

See now we are getting somewhere. That code tells me theres no connection between the IACV and the ECU. So the IACV is not even controlling the amount of air going into the cylinder, as a safety measure the injectors cut off at a certain RPM hence the bouncing idle.
The Idle screw should be fully closed from my experience.

Check the 3 wire IACV connector , Just like the knock sensor it has a plastic cover, remove it and inspect the leads, all 3 should look the same with no corrosion.

For the EVAP code check the gas cap or the solenoid on the drivers side strut bar.

For the radiator cap just replace it, Like I mentioned before: After a serious overheat they usually give up.

 

I just did the ps rebuild yesterday and didn't work took it apart put one of the pieces backwards thank heavens for youTube on the phone no internet at home. I put wrong screws on pressure line after fixing and fluid went flying all over me and engine, no more squeeling though.

I'm pretty sure the iacv cables are fine cause if I unplug it the rpms stay high but constant instead of bounce. Going to clean iacv this weekend see if it helps.

The screw was all the way closed and I was getting a hard shutter at 45 through 40 slowing down, I loosened the screw 1 turn open and the shutter is not as bad but noticed a minor clunk in reverse. Manual says pgm tester to set the idle but who the hell actually has one of those just laying around.

 

So then the code must of been set when you unplugged the IACV, Did you ever do the EGR cleaning ? Maybe in the process a hose broke off or something. (take a picture of the intake and post it here)

I think you should just take it to a shop to have the intake smoke tested and see where the vacuum leak is at and then decide if you can tackle it or leave it to the shop.

You dont need a PGM tester, the idle relearn procedure is all that needs to be done in that case.

 

Yesterday i checked that idle screw and it was closed all the way, slowing down from 45-40mph i would end up having a violent shudder almost like a rear end wheel hop feeling, i unscrewed it a little more than half a turn and driving to work today 35 mins away, i didnt feel that shudder at all at that mph but did notice i'm feeling my shift points a little. so not sure where to go from here as far as that screw??

but have to wait till Monday to replace radiator cap and once i do that to make sure good pressure is in the cooling system than i'll do the idle learn or should i be able to do it regardless?

 

Reset the PCM. Recheck all previous work and look for vac leaks.

Concentrate on the IACV first. The P1457 EVAP is probably a faulty purge control valve solenoid or a leak in the rear cannister ? Not so critical, IMO. Try to maintain your focus. Previous owner was an idiot.

 

yea really wanna concentrate on getting this idle issue fixed, so little fuzzy on the idle screw, doesn't it really matter where its at or not??

i'll take apart the IACV this weekend or tonight if i have time and give it a good cleaning, would anything else through that code???

 

It's hard to beat the real deal......the Factory Service Manual, if ya don't have it by now......download a copy now. It's got all the facts and details necessary to get ya back to normal, after ya figure out what the previous owner fucked up. If after days, weeks, and months.....ya gotta attempt to move forward somehow. It may take some professional wisdom and be cheaper and less frustrating at the end of the day once issues are finally resolved.

 

Theres no better time to test then when the idle is bouncing for vacuum leaks through all the hoses on the intake, take a needle nose and pinch each one and when it stops theres the problem.

Make sure you installed the engine mount control solenoid hose on the rear of the intake, its a small vacuum hose. Without being in front of the engine I cant tell.

 

ok will try pinching the lines see if anything changes than i'll follow the procedure for the code.

Am i getting it correct how i read it that once i plug the IACV hole if it goes down i adjust the idle screw??

 

^^^ Sounds like some really good experienced advice to me !!!
Ya gotta get it while it's kickin'......and then tie it down. Yehah.

 

Noticed the past couple days the car is staying a little above 1k rpms when in gear which has never happened before, my lower gears are noticeable when shifting, and in park staying at a constant 1.5k rpms instead of the up and down. Plus its messing with the mounts as i'm feeling it when i'm letting off the gas every once in a while.

where did you find the 5 point driver needed for the IACV screws?? and what size if there is a size to them??

 

Theres obviously a vacuum leak.
You need a phillips screwdriver not sure what size but as long as you can turn it without skipping.
Take the IACV off and inspect both gasket and surface.

 

So took out the IACV and right away noticed a little bit of moisture in all the chambers, I took off the screws and turned the magnet by hand and inside seemed to be little tiny tiny rust spots like 3, so I'm assuming I didn't tighten it good enough the last time I put it back on. Ran out of carb cleaner and broke till tomorrow so have to ressemble tomorrow, hopefully gets rid of idle issue. Than my mind will finally be at peace.....

 

ok so removed the IACV and took apart the sensor to deep clean it, used some q-tips and carb cleaner was a little dirty but nothing to bad. So put it back in to test out and for the first couple mins idle was smoothing out and the minute the car came up to temp started going up and down. So I took off the plug that reveals the little spinner on the sensor side and stuck a screwdriver in to see if it changed anything. Lo and behold it dropped my idle to normal but for some reason it looks like it doesn't reset itself to the closed position or doesn't close all the way cause I can turn the valve a wisker and it stops the up and down immediately, the second I let go of the position I was holding the valve in, it starts up again. any suggestions any ideas?? or gotta bite the bullet and spend the $100

 

Do you have the older original IACV ? if so reinstall it, the new one must be bad .

 

Threw it away cleaning the garage out but wouldn't have helped the old one was extremely rusty and looked like it was the original. Autozone has one for $89.99 with a lifetime so i'll probably get it for the warranty aspect.

 

The moisture you saw was probably antifreeze which means the gasket is not sealing correctly. Make sure theres only one gasket and both mating surfaces are clean, it can only be installed one way.
Could also be why you're smelling coolant.

 

It may be worth comparing prices of a new OEM part from an Acura online source to Autozone's aftermarket IAC valve. If it's not much more, go with the OEM for best results.

 

$220 OEM, $90 autozone
The previous one i had bought at Advance and was a yr warranty, the lifetime one has a different part# and is a different brands WELLS i believe.

 

the iacv hole with internal rust should have been a clue that further digging was needed
Have you vac tested the front and rear motor mounts?

without me reading the cars history: have you removed the intake manifold for egr cleaning? its possible to install upper-most gasket upside down- results in idle prob similar to your symptoms

 

Replaced all 3 motor mounts 6 months ago, cleaned EGR and was still clean when i took the manifold out. the gaskets for the spacer and IM i matched to the diagrams just to be sure i had them on correctly.

when i took off the sensor for the IACV the cap fell off and i could rotate the valve with a screwdriver, after cleaning it and putting everything back together and it still had the up and down bounce i started messing with the valve itself. Looks like the valve itself isn't fully closing cause when i move the magnet end a little more i assume closing it, the idle levels off and goes to normal but if i just leave it, the idle bounces.

 

don't care if the motor mounts are fresh out of the box,,,as experienced by a ziner recently- they can fail/arrive failed
its a simple test- I figure you have the 25$ HFT vac gauge with brake bleeder kit

cant offer any knowledge on internal workings of the iacv, sorry

 

also don't care about diagram- for the purpose of matching upper gasket to manifold cover- match to the cover itself, that's where a port gets blocked if wrong
Will still install when wrong and look right! doh!!

TB spacer- was thermoblock kit present or installed now- got to perfectly clean tb gaskets
and since the egr port service done, retorque intake manifold after 500 miles
many find some of those bolts 1/4 turn loose! that's not ok

 

Friend has a vac that i can use to test out the motor mounts so will do that in a couple days when i see him.

Wouldn't i be able to rule everything else out, by the fact that the idle goes to normal when i manually turn the IACV closed, like it not fully closing??

 

Plug the mount's vac lines at the main solenoid source to easily eliminate that from the equation.

Don't really think that's the issue as the idle is good until the motor warms up. It appears more like a temp related cooling problem. Sensor, trapped air, hidden leak, etc......!!!

Process of elimination, go over previous work and try a new IAC valve.

 

The test was already performed by pinching the the vacuum hose that goes to the intake and yield no results for the idle issue.
But It might just be the engine mount vacuum hose thats off, it happen to me while working on mine.

You have to be $90 sure.

 

Ha, hah ..... always recheck the inevitable easy stuff. Sometimes, you are your worst enemy when it comes to DIY stuff. Things are easily overlooked in the heat of the moment trying to conquer the issue at hand.

Always take your time, be meticulous and then double-check your work. Been there, done that. Reality sucks.

 

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Make sure its there

 

would unplugging that solenoid equal the same result??

 

yup its there.

 

where is step 5 located so i can try this out this weekend??

 

Weird behavior so have never really taken the car further than 30 mins away. Went to a bday party with the family it was about an 1hr 20 mins away all highway, had the ac running the whole time. Right before are destination noticed when getting off the exit and slowing down that the car rpms were bouncing like crazy from 1k to 3k while downshifting at the same time had same similar symptoms as if slipping but would grab on once i gave it some gas. So turned the ac off and did it for about 5 mins longer and than went right back to driving like normal. Drove home perfectly Fine without ac of course but would like to know if anyone knows what could be going on?

 

Its all part of the Idle control system, the ECU cannot control it. Were you able to to install the New IACV ?

 

Never ended up buying it was Gonna try that p0505 procedure today but that happen last night.

 

If ya have no luck with testing or finding a vac leak, either take it to a shop or try a new IAC valve.

 

Looking up the tcs page on the manual step 5 is it the same as the tps sensor?

 

are you using SS mode on the trans to downshift? or is this occurring during normal auto trans mode?
or is this a modified gen2 with 6 speed manual trans?

AC on adds load to the electrical and engine power systems, a thought to look for the unusual, vac leak with ac on?? ckd those motor mounts with vac gauge yet?

didn't you have a bunch of weird electrical probs too?

 

Everything on that car was bastardized by the previous owner, IMO.....it's a total guessing game.

 

Step 5 does not apply to your TL, thats only for the Type S 2002-03

Take it to a shop that is able to do a smoke test on the intake and go from there.

The cheapest route to an OEM IACV would be a salvage yard, clean it then install it.
No one here has the engine bay in front to spot an issue.

Maybe the evap vacuum hose is not hooked up on to the throttle body, is my last guess.