i was wondering i jus got the car and it had 105000 miles on it and now it is abt to b 110000 soon...the guy had 10w30 synthetic in it....should i keep using tht or switch to something else and i live in nj so it b cold winters and hot summers....thanks for the help

 

i have a 02 tls

 

You should be using 5W20. You could also use 5W30, but 5W20 will get very slightly more MPG.

10W30 won't really hurt the car though, so don't worry about that.

 

5-30 normal use and weather--protects better during normal opperation

cold azz winters below freezing overnight--Synthethic oil, 0w 20
that 0 part flows as soon as oil pump turns so the bearings are taken care of asap

see owner book or acura.com for list of allowed oil weights in various ambient temps and operating conditions--commute-short trips-long freeway high speeds etc

 

5 30 protects the parts better against the slamming together at thousands of rpm--than 20 oil does
that little extra thickness helps

-20 was only used in years subject to CAFE govt fuel standards testing--that method is no longer used and oil went back to 30..coincidence??

 

since you dont know the car history--
before next oil change add 1/2 can seafoam to oil and drive a day or 2,,more than 30 minutes running time really helps

replace oil and filter with oil warm from 15 minute drive so sludge is liquid and drains out--oil will be black like you cant believe but the passageways are now clean!!

also you are due for the DIY egr system cleaning- that effects many aspects of running

 

sim: timing belt and water pump done at 105? spark plugs?

 

01tl:idk if the spark plugs water pump timing belt was replaced....if i do will they improve my mileage

 

plugs improve mileage especially if there are 100k on them !!
simple to remove one and determine age

timing belt and water pump protect and operate the engine
breakage of the belt or failure of its tensioner or a water pump siezure
will all result in 2500-4000 dollars engine damage!!
there are ways to guess if belt has been done

If the timing belt is severly worn on its contact to the cam gears its possible the valve timing is very slightly off, which will make more power once fixed

valve adjust is due at 105 `as needed` that means adjust the ones that are off spec and leave the other ones alone~
thats a major effect on mileage, fuel injected cars need precise control of fuel/air mix

ck your tire pressures- with summer temps suddenly,, the pressures have changed

the EGR cleaning can improve engine running = mileage too

lube the camfibrilator shaft for sure fire 30% gain in mpg

 

stick with 1 oil for rest of the cars life dont mix em or keep switching ull do more harm. i have been feeding mine 5w-20 (winter) or 5w-30 (summer) castrol gtx hm for years with no problem. i get 30mpg highway and 20mpg city.

 

the engine doesnt care what you run for brand
or synth one time and dino the next!
as long as the spec is correct and the weight apporiate for the ambient temps
its happy

 

5W-20 gets more MPG? I don't think so... The 20 and 30 numbers are indicators for viscosity anyway (hence the recommendation for temp changes). It's not even worth noting if it's true that you get "slightly more".

Like 01 said, I've always adhered to 20 for the winter and 30 for the summer. Depends on the climate you're in, but 30 will be just fine and optimal for almost all applications.

 

I'm not gonna lie, I couldn't give a shit what you think is worth noting. I definitely found it to be useful info when I first read it.

Yes, it does get "slightly more" MPG. You don't think so? It wasn't an opinion.

Read your manual, it will give you a range of what oil spec to use for different climates. In that manual, it will use only one spec across ALL operating temperatures.

So 5W20 or 5W30? Engine was designed for 5W30, but it's not really a big deal. Their both the same exact thickness at operating temp. It only affects the start up, and the lower viscosity of the 5W20 will mean less resistance.

 

 

Actually it does get better mileage. Nothing to really write home about but it does. Why do you think most manufactures have switched to it. It helps raise there CAFE standards up.

 

no, thats totally wrong, xW-20 oil will ALWAYS be thinner than xW-30 at operating temp. the 5w on either weight oil will indicate that they both have the same viscosity at cold temps.

as for start up, in theory any oil noted for 5W should all have the same viscosity at cold/ambient temps. but, due to formulations differences and viscosity index improvers it may vary slighty at cold temps depending on what base stock was used and such. so in reality a 5W-20 may flow slightly better than 5W-30 cold. now, a 0w-20/30 will flow better than a 5w-20/30 at cold.

you get better mileage with a 5w-20 over a 5w-30 because the 5w-20 is thinner at operating temps, and pumps easier, its not just start up.

 

Ouch dude. You made me feel like this guy -->

Obviously viscosity is not the only factor. You have to consider shear strength too and the 30 would be a better option in this regard.

Yes, it helps raise CAFE standards, but how much does it really increase mileage? I've read a few notes on the issue and apparently some vehicles have only seen 1/10 MPG increase. As for the TL, I don't know the differences and obviously how you drive the car will have much more of an impact using 5w-20/30 oil. Heck, keeping after your tire pressure will probably have more of an impact. Just saying that it's not really a pro to list for comparisons since the difference can be almost negligible.

The climate you live in would probably be the deciding factor between the two IMO.

 

Oh dammit, your 100% right. I switched up which one changes. Been too long since I've read the Bob is the Oil Guy guide. Thanks for correcting me, I'll be sure to get it straight now!
Sorry, I just had to pay for a $200 ticket. Was racing a hot girl in a Porsche. Both going 120mph+. Saw a cop, so we both slowed down. Just to be safe, I pulled over to the slow lane, and he gave me a ticket for Unsafe Lane Usage. Go figure.

 

, it happens.

our engines will be plenty happy with just about any oil, as long as you dont dump in like 20w-60 or something crazy haha. pretty much can run anything from 0w-20 to 10w-30/(40 even), dino or syn. but best to stick with either 5w-20 or 5w-30.

 

Lol. That sucks man... Though I'd still say you're lucky for only getting an unsafe lane change ticket. Penalty would have been infinitely harsher if you were clocked for going 120.

How are your mods coming along? Looking through your posts, it seems as though you're planning on doing A LOT to your TL.

 

Yea, he had no idea we were going that fast. I guess I was still in race mode, and I changed lanes too fast. Still, I knew he was there, so it was very reasonable. I can't really complain about it, seeing as I got away with the speed.

As for the mods, I have the money but no time. This summer should prove to be interesting...

I have to start shopping for a good mechanic.

 

the oil viscosity numbers stated on the can are both false

additives are put into a base grade to make it function as the stated weight at a specific temp

the first temp is 32f / 0c car overnight supercold
and the 2nd number is 200-220F normal oil operating temp
so a 5-30 is more likely a 20ish with boosters to work like a 30 and have super thin aspect AT 32F, not 70f startup ..
its my guess= at regular temps you get the base viscosity at startup

the slightly less friction of the 20 is why car makers use it to fool CAFE fuel standards--and the method to measure that has changed

the book doesnt have just 1 oil for all ranges,,there are overlaps of each based on air temp and type of driving..commute-high speeds etc

cold is the big issue, so you get oil flowing to the bearings as fast as possible
If you live in sub-freezing temps your engine will thank you for synthetic 0-20
I only say 20 with that because thats all I have seen it made as!
otherwise 0w 30 would be my choice- once warmed up the oil temp is same all year round

sidenote: the W stands for Winter = 5 @ 32f Winter temps/ 30 @220f

 

honestly it needs to be WAY colder than below freezing, more like below zero before its necessary to run a 0w-20. a 5w-30/20 syn are plenty suitable down to -0 degree F. if it was -20 F outside id run a 0w-20 for sure.