When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Noise still present / but still runs perfect (no codes, misfire, smoke, hesitation)
https://youtu.be/QK9J3nCPtS8
No new news. Now that weather is cooled off, noise is a little louder or lasts a little longer before it goes away. Thinking it's exhaust manifold related. Exhaust related because doubtful it can be engine related
No new news. Now that weather is cooled off, noise is a little louder or lasts a little longer before it goes away. Thinking it's exhaust manifold related. Exhaust related because doubtful it can be engine related
250k miles - driving strong.
cheers.
nothing new to report. Heading out this week for oil change.....will see if I can get a diagnosis on the noise (kinda tricky because noise decreases as engine heats up). I've been ignoring the noise since it mostly goes away and there aren't any performance/engine issues. Will also see if I can get diagnosis on power steering leak. Adding fluid every 2-4 weeks.....fluid on garage floor. Thanks!
My first guess would be the timing belt tensioner, i've heard a lot that sound quite a bit like that. When's the last time the timing belt was changed?
I see in the description you mention valves, I did that job on my sisters 00' with ~230k and really only had to mess with a couple so i'm not sure if it was done before or not, but they wouldn't make that noise and it wouldn't go away after a minute if it was.
Speaking of her car, i really need to check the timing cause this is what her belt tensioner looks like
Timing job was done about 40k miles ago. Guess that leaves me another 50k to go.....but I'm keen on doing it because I want to get my oil pump seal replaced. Drops of oil bother me!
Thanks for listening to the noise. Definitely gets better within 1-2 minute post warm up....almost goes away. Sound seems to come from front of engine by the transmission. Like from exhaust manifold but hard to tell with perfect certainty.
I think when I did timing last time, I bought the Gates kit but bought the tensioner at Honda. Had trouble with a non Honda tensioner during first replacement.
my main beef right now is I am losing steering fluid. I found it.....on garage floor. Leaking somewhere!! Maybe at the rack? Need to find out.
Hi Dom, I'm a little confused...I see this old thread from you with the same video and the issue was resolved by the mechanic as a bad cat. has the issue indeed returned?
I suppose this could be a cracked exhaust manifold. You should be able to remove the cover from the front manifold and inspect it easily; back may be a bit tricky. but at least you know where to look/hear for sound.
If you end up seeing some attempted repair I would take it back to the mechanic who said they fixed the problem as a "bad cat"
Hello friend! Sorry about my postings - I need to do some cleanup.
there was a noise from the cat - which has been resolved. All good there.
but the other noise is still present. The noise at startup that goes away after 1-2 minutes when warmed up. Mechanic should have caught this following the cat repair. Agreed. I just have been dealing with it and ignoring it since the noise goes away. Fun times!!
Why does noise go away when warmed up? Is it one of those "heat expands" things?
I really have no symptoms. Well...sure there is the smell. Only other thing I can think of......,my dashboard vibrates a bit at idle....and sometimes it feels like it chugs a little when slowing down/coming off gas.
but with this car my main issue is- the oil leaks. Ok I can fix oil pump seal and oil,filter gasket and any other gasket/seal during next timing job but.......I'm not fixing the rear main seal while the tranny is fine.....
I pull the car into garage.
me thinks the drops on right side are from oil pump seal.
left side is rear main seal. And probably tranny case housing. (Left side smelled like tranny)
It's like - I can fix oil leaks when timing job is due (probably in 2026).
I can fix the rear main leak and transmission case when/if the transmission needs a rebuild.
just not sure it's worth it.......
Think my gameplan is.......keep eye on all fluids, maintain as best as I can........replace what makes sense (maybe not motor/tranny mounts)........and drive it until tranny or engine fails (or until AC stops blowing cold!).
could the exhaust leak be the reason I get vibration inside the car? Dashboard hummmms noticably and arm rest too. Especially stopped at a red light in idle. I usually go into neutral to quiet her down. Or is it more likely to be mounts?
could the exhaust leak be the reason I get vibration inside the car? Dashboard hummmms noticably and arm rest too. Especially stopped at a red light in idle. I usually go into neutral to quiet her down. Or is it more likely to be mounts?
If putting the transmission in neutral quiets it down, I'd be looking at engine and tranny mounts. I would put it on ramps, SET THE PARKING BRAKE HARD, start it, get under it, and have a friend put their foot on the brake HARD and put it in gear to reproduce the condition. A lift would be safer, obviously.
If putting the transmission in neutral quiets it down, I'd be looking at engine and tranny mounts. I would put it on ramps, SET THE PARKING BRAKE HARD, start it, get under it, and have a friend put their foot on the brake HARD and put it in gear to reproduce the condition. A lift would be safer, obviously.
yes, gets better when popped into neutral. I did hold the brake and rev engine.....can easily see the engine lift more than it should. May make appointment for Friday to get mounts installed and see what can be done about exhaust manifold leak / stripped or broken manifold bolt. ,
maybe mechanic can also help me get rear door panel off so I can pop the dents out from the inside (some assface backed into my back driver door at gas station). I'm just afraid if I pull the panel, I won't be able to get it back on properly.
Lastly, wish there was a way to use honda bond on outside of tranny shell/housing. Instead of having to pull up tranny when it runs perfectly. Odd thing is....every time I check the fluid it is full. Car doesn't slip or bang or anything. Shifts like brand new. So odd when I see the tranny fluid on the ground. Of course at least if I ever had that job done, I could also replace the rear main seal. Then when timing is due.....handle the oil pump seal / oil filter gasket leaks.
maybe mechanic can also help me get rear door panel off so I can pop the dents out from the inside (some assface backed into my back driver door at gas station). I'm just afraid if I pull the panel, I won't be able to get it back on properly.
FINALLY got to mechanic today (was in the area).
diagnostic is: needs valve adjustment. Noise is inside engine, under valve cover. Exhaust inspected - no leaks/cracks.
parts (valve cover gaskets, intake gasket) and labor: $750
I'm wondering how urgent it is. Car runs perfectly. Absolutely no issues whatsoever. Strong as an ox.
can this wait till my income tax refund?
FINALLY got to mechanic today (was in the area).
diagnostic is: needs valve adjustment. Noise is inside engine, under valve cover. Exhaust inspected - no leaks/cracks.
parts (valve cover gaskets, intake gasket) and labor: $750
I'm wondering how urgent it is. Car runs perfectly. Absolutely no issues whatsoever. Strong as an ox.
can this wait till my income tax refund?
You can do eet! Not a hard job. Assuming you have all the wrenches, feeler gauges $10, gaskets $30, labor $0. Good idea to do plugs while you're in there.
You can do eet! Not a hard job. Assuming you have all the wrenches, feeler gauges $10, gaskets $30, labor $0. Good idea to do plugs while you're in there.
no way, Jose. Above my pay grade!
just trying to determine - how fast should I have this fixed?
Just listened to the video again. If that's a loose valve, it's the worst I've ever heard, so the sooner the better.
appointment scheduled for Wednesday - valve adjustment service.
dealer is recommending fuel injector service, too. ($200). Thoughts? Needed for certain or dealer trying to upsell?
appointment scheduled for Wednesday - valve adjustment service.
dealer is recommending fuel injector service, too. ($200). Thoughts? Needed for certain or dealer trying to upsell?
thanks!!!!
Injector cleaning is a good thing, but you can do about as well by running 3 or 4 cans of Berryman fuel system cleaner through it.
Injector cleaning is a good thing, but you can do about as well by running 3 or 4 cans of Berryman fuel system cleaner through it.
Called Acura and asked them while my car was there, how much would they charge for transmission fluid drain and refill. I said I have the dw1 fluid. Don't need fluid, just need labor for drain and fill.
they said $148. Bad enough my local guy charges $60, but is acura smoking crack??????
Called Acura and asked them while my car was there, how much would they charge for transmission fluid drain and refill. I said I have the dw1 fluid. Don't need fluid, just need labor for drain and fill.
they said $148. Bad enough my local guy charges $60, but is acura smoking crack??????
True. True. Guess I need a jack lift and proper items.
but wait - it gets better! I brought my own new ngk spark plugs for acura to install. They said $325 labor to install 6 plugs. They should go drink bleach.
acura tech (dealer) called - they don't think the noise is valve related and the only way they will know for sure is to do a tear down test at $800. They said they think it needs a rebuild.
f them. I may be the dumbest person on this site, but a honda engine doesn't need a rebuild if it runs the way this one does. No engine light. No problems whatsoever except the damn noise.
I taking to original mechanic who said it's valves needing adjustment and will have him do the job.
tear down test. Bite me.
The noise definitely sounds present ONLY when the engine is cold. things in the exhaust region of the car will heat up and expand really quickly which makes it difficult to pinpoint the location. if you stand over the engine from the side of the car, (one ear is pointed toward the front exhaust manifold, another toward the rear exhaust manifold) that should help you determine which one is making the noise.
After removing the heat shield, spraying some soapy water on the exhaust (only when it's cold) should help you find a crack.
The noise definitely sounds present ONLY when the engine is cold. things in the exhaust region of the car will heat up and expand really quickly which makes it difficult to pinpoint the location. if you stand over the engine from the side of the car, (one ear is pointed toward the front exhaust manifold, another toward the rear exhaust manifold) that should help you determine which one is making the noise.
After removing the heat shield, spraying some soapy water on the exhaust (only when it's cold) should help you find a crack.
whitetiger!
good to hear from you!
that's the issue ---- exhaust or valves.
"my mechanic" went under the car and looked around under the hood and said no exhaust leaks (even though I smell exhaust). He showed me where the noise is coming from - right under the valve cover, it seems. Actually sounded like coming from both valve covers.
Then I went to Acura for 2nd opinion. Acura said the noise wasn't prevalent because it was warm when they listened to it (even though I dropped car off the night before). Then they said they don't think it's valves and wanted to do a tear down test.
so now I have two opinions.
Can I ask you this question: IF this was valves needing adjustment OR other internal damage issue - would the car run as well as it does? I emphasize, it runs as well as it ever has, and has ZERO issues whatsoever.
?????????
thank you!
Concern is if i get valves adjusted (not that it would hurt) and the noise still occurs after------i'm out over $700.
I’ve never heard valves that sound like that, but I have heard cracked exhaust manifolds that do. Up under the heat shield right where the individual exhaust ports meet.
Someone inspecting under the car for the exhaust leak I have in mind is looking in the wrong place, I could see how one may think the sound is coming from the valve cover.
I’ve never heard valves that sound like that, but I have heard cracked exhaust manifolds that do. Up under the heat shield right where the individual exhaust ports meet.
Someone inspecting under the car for the exhaust leak I have in mind is looking in the wrong place, I could see how one may think the sound is coming from the valve cover.
and yes - exhaust would present no issues, except noise. Engine in need of rebuild, should present other issues.
I can tell you where I pinpoint the noise. Directly under the EGR valve........
I’ve never heard valves that sound like that, but I have heard cracked exhaust manifolds that do. Up under the heat shield right where the individual exhaust ports meet.
Someone inspecting under the car for the exhaust leak I have in mind is looking in the wrong place, I could see how one may think the sound is coming from the valve cover.
And running as strong and as engine light free as ever!
Noise (Valve adjustment related OR exhaust related) has quieted down ALOT as the weather warmed up. During the hot summer, the noise pretty much went away.