Need a shop to install my aftermarket brake pads.......
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Need a shop to install my aftermarket brake pads.......
in the orlando area... Can anybody recommend me a shop to install my aftermarket brake pads? I went to tires plus and speedway transmission and they don't install aftermarket parts.... If I can't find a shop near me that will do it I guess my last resort will be the dealer....
Let me know..
Let me know..
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#4
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here you go
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/184466/23
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/184466/24
those are the directions I used, really simple took me about 2.5 hours because I had to stop midway and get an impact wrench.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/184466/23
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/184466/24
those are the directions I used, really simple took me about 2.5 hours because I had to stop midway and get an impact wrench.
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
^^thanks alot...good find...i will try it but im not too well with doing car work.... i live at an apartment so i guess i'll park over at the corner where no cars are at...so basically the tools are impact wrench?
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#8
ChairmanMaoSaysRTFM
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you don't really need impact wrenches to do this (although they make life much much easier). you might want to use an impact *screwdriver* if you do the rotors, but for the pads you only need a regular metric socket set with 1/2 inch drive sockets. you can use a 3/8 inch drive but the handle on the ratchet may not be long enough for you to break the bolts loose on the caliper slides. at least with the 1/2 inch drive the ratchet has a longer handle for more torque.
TL260power - don't be afraid to do your brakes. everyone has to learn somewhere. just think of the money you'll be saving
SSTS
TL260power - don't be afraid to do your brakes. everyone has to learn somewhere. just think of the money you'll be saving
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SSTS
#9
Senior Moderator
I used to be the 'go to the dealership' kind of guy. Now ... forget that. I'm doing the rotors + pads tomorrow morning with my uncle (mechanic). Think about it ... they basically can design things to be replaced by guys who don't necessarily graduate from high school -- why can you do it?
The DIY is probably one of the greatest feelings you can get. Your first time, either have someone who knows what they're doing or buy a Helms manual and read the directions carefully.
The DIY is probably one of the greatest feelings you can get. Your first time, either have someone who knows what they're doing or buy a Helms manual and read the directions carefully.
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#10
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Yeah - if you're really not sure, have a friend who knows what he's doing help you. After all - they are your brakes and you do need them to work correctly!
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#11
c-clamp (probably a 4" one), 19mm open-ended wrench, 14mm socket with rachet or something like a breaker bar, jack, jack stand might help, torque wrecnh would be optional if you want to torque it back to spec.
if you have the tools great, if not, you can always buy the tools and save it for other uses. probably would end up costing the same if you took it to someone else to do but you have tools now.
if you have the tools great, if not, you can always buy the tools and save it for other uses. probably would end up costing the same if you took it to someone else to do but you have tools now.
#12
Senior Moderator
Just came back from my uncle's house ... it was an easy process. (Sorry, no pics) Both front pads + rotors ... < 1.5 hours (with tools).
To just do the pads, follow steps: 1 - 3, 7 - 13.
To do the pads + rotors, go through all these steps.
1) Jack the car up. Find the proper points to lift the car up (trolley jack makes life easy). Be sure to use axle stands -- be safe!
2) Take your rims off.
3) Taking the caliper off might require some contortion to find the 2 bolts that clamp them together. You might need to use quite a bit of muscle to free or use a crowbar to loosen from the rotor.
4) Tie up the freed caliper away from rotor (use old metal coathanger or some rope).
5) I heard horror stories about getting the rotors off since 2 screws (at 9 and 3 o'clock positions) hold it in place. Impact screwdriver and they were off with no problems. No rust on them.
Get PB Blaster (choice #1) or WD40 (choice #2) if they are seized on (ie Spray where screws are ... let it soak in before trying to take screws off).
6) Take screws off ... remove rotor. Before installing new rotors, be sure to spray brake cleaner (some sort of organic compound) onto both sides of the rotor so that the pads have an oil-free surface to squeeze
7) Taking the old pads off require some dexterity. They simply push off. Be sure to reuse the spacers (black metal sleeve that face away from the rotor) when you swap in the new pads. You might have to adjust the part that 'clamps' onto the pad but that's easy.
8) Before installing the "rear" pad (one on the inside of rotor), be sure to open up the brake fluid reservoir on the driver's side of the engine compartment ... it's right behind the factory black upper strut bar. Try and keep this reservoir open for as little time as possible. Moisture in the air prematurely contaminates this fluid. Put some sort of rag around the reservoir in case it leaks when you push the caliper piston back in (trust me -- it might happen 'cause it happened to me!)
9) Use some sort of clamp to push back in the piston back in ... a lot easier than doing it by hand.
10) Use a little grease at the ends of the pad (little tabs that stick out)
11) Install the pads in the right orientation (only one way it will fit).
12) Place caliper back onto rotor. Install screws in the back of the caliper and tighten them.
13) Reinstall rim.
14) Repeat process for other side.
15) DO NOT FORGET TO CLOSE THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR!!!
I hope I didn't forget any steps. I wish I brought my digital camera to help others but I'm sure if you did a google search, any Honda will have a similar setup.
Time: 80 minutes for both sides.
Satisfaction that you saved hundreds by doing it yourself: PRICELESS.
To just do the pads, follow steps: 1 - 3, 7 - 13.
To do the pads + rotors, go through all these steps.
1) Jack the car up. Find the proper points to lift the car up (trolley jack makes life easy). Be sure to use axle stands -- be safe!
2) Take your rims off.
3) Taking the caliper off might require some contortion to find the 2 bolts that clamp them together. You might need to use quite a bit of muscle to free or use a crowbar to loosen from the rotor.
4) Tie up the freed caliper away from rotor (use old metal coathanger or some rope).
5) I heard horror stories about getting the rotors off since 2 screws (at 9 and 3 o'clock positions) hold it in place. Impact screwdriver and they were off with no problems. No rust on them.
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
6) Take screws off ... remove rotor. Before installing new rotors, be sure to spray brake cleaner (some sort of organic compound) onto both sides of the rotor so that the pads have an oil-free surface to squeeze
7) Taking the old pads off require some dexterity. They simply push off. Be sure to reuse the spacers (black metal sleeve that face away from the rotor) when you swap in the new pads. You might have to adjust the part that 'clamps' onto the pad but that's easy.
8) Before installing the "rear" pad (one on the inside of rotor), be sure to open up the brake fluid reservoir on the driver's side of the engine compartment ... it's right behind the factory black upper strut bar. Try and keep this reservoir open for as little time as possible. Moisture in the air prematurely contaminates this fluid. Put some sort of rag around the reservoir in case it leaks when you push the caliper piston back in (trust me -- it might happen 'cause it happened to me!)
9) Use some sort of clamp to push back in the piston back in ... a lot easier than doing it by hand.
10) Use a little grease at the ends of the pad (little tabs that stick out)
11) Install the pads in the right orientation (only one way it will fit).
12) Place caliper back onto rotor. Install screws in the back of the caliper and tighten them.
13) Reinstall rim.
14) Repeat process for other side.
15) DO NOT FORGET TO CLOSE THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR!!!
I hope I didn't forget any steps. I wish I brought my digital camera to help others but I'm sure if you did a google search, any Honda will have a similar setup.
Time: 80 minutes for both sides.
Satisfaction that you saved hundreds by doing it yourself: PRICELESS.
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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