My car decided it was going to break today
#41
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#42
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#45
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#47
also the extra mount is a waiste of money with it's current location IMHO, being mounted low as I recall it is, A much better solution would be to mount at he top and have the advantage of a longer lever arm would work much better than mounting low and close to the drive line center axes, everthing is torqued about them so the further away the better from a design stand point that is.
Last edited by rcb2000; 09-02-2010 at 09:10 AM.
#48
Your Garage
iTrader: (22)
if your going to run it like a race car, like it seems you do, why aren't you fabing some solid mounts up? That would be the route to go instead of replacing the mounts all of the time.
also the extra mount is a waiste of money with it's current location IMHO, being mounted low as I recall it is, A much better solution would be to mount at he top and have the advantage of a longer lever arm would work much better than mounting low and close to the drive line center axes, everthing is torqued about them so the further away the better from a design stand point that is.
also the extra mount is a waiste of money with it's current location IMHO, being mounted low as I recall it is, A much better solution would be to mount at he top and have the advantage of a longer lever arm would work much better than mounting low and close to the drive line center axes, everthing is torqued about them so the further away the better from a design stand point that is.
im pretty sure its his DD so solid mounts would be
and the ingalls is not mounted low. take a look
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/excelerate-performance-ingalls-engine-torque-damper-groupbuy-785413/
#49
Pro
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maybe you should have got the camber kit and set the camber instead of running all that negitive camber and side loading a bearing that was never designed to be side loaded and that failed because it was side loaded. just a thought, sorry to hear your having major issues.
#50
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if your going to run it like a race car, like it seems you do, why aren't you fabing some solid mounts up? That would be the route to go instead of replacing the mounts all of the time.
also the extra mount is a waiste of money with it's current location IMHO, being mounted low as I recall it is, A much better solution would be to mount at he top and have the advantage of a longer lever arm would work much better than mounting low and close to the drive line center axes, everthing is torqued about them so the further away the better from a design stand point that is.
also the extra mount is a waiste of money with it's current location IMHO, being mounted low as I recall it is, A much better solution would be to mount at he top and have the advantage of a longer lever arm would work much better than mounting low and close to the drive line center axes, everthing is torqued about them so the further away the better from a design stand point that is.
Also the mount IS NOT a waste. Have you looked at where its located? Its up high and mounts to the strut tower.
#51
my mistake on the dampner, thought it was mounted down low and in front.
What's your worry because it's a DD? you think it's going to cause a harsher/rougher rider? hell being lowered and with reduced spring travel will do that more than solid mounts will.
also do you have to tighten those tower bolts up often, screw's are a little short to catch the selflocking feature of the nut from the looks in the picture.
What's your worry because it's a DD? you think it's going to cause a harsher/rougher rider? hell being lowered and with reduced spring travel will do that more than solid mounts will.
also do you have to tighten those tower bolts up often, screw's are a little short to catch the selflocking feature of the nut from the looks in the picture.
Last edited by rcb2000; 09-02-2010 at 11:54 AM.
#52
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my mistake on the dampner, thought it was mounted down low and in front.
What's your worry because it's a DD? you think it's going to cause a harsher/rougher rider? hell being lowered and with reduced spring travel will do that more than solid mounts will.
also do you have to tighten those tower bolts up often, screw's are a little short to catch the selflocking feature of the nut from the looks in the picture.
What's your worry because it's a DD? you think it's going to cause a harsher/rougher rider? hell being lowered and with reduced spring travel will do that more than solid mounts will.
also do you have to tighten those tower bolts up often, screw's are a little short to catch the selflocking feature of the nut from the looks in the picture.
? its not my car, but i would doubt it.
#54
2003 TL-p
i doubt they would ever come loose. there really isn't much of a tension load on those nutz at all, its mainly a shear load on the bolt studs from the shock/strut tower. i just tq'ed mine down properly and i haven't had any problems with mine.
#57
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#58
Suzuka Master
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Does the new knuckle come with a balljoint from the manufacturer? My guess is yes.
Thanks.
#59
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http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...catdisplay.jsp
#60
Suzuka Master
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I didnt even bother looking else where, I ordered it from (the link below) It has the ball joint
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...catdisplay.jsp
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...catdisplay.jsp
I could not find an aftermarket knockoff in all of my searches. The best Honda price I could find shipped was $182.59 each to my locale from MagAuto.
#61
Your Friendly Canadian
Join Date: Dec 2007
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I'm happy it wasn't any worse, but I was kinda hoping for complete destruction of everything under the engine bay. But glad that's not the case.
Is your other bearing original as well? Might wanna check that one out.
Best of luck with everything.
Is your other bearing original as well? Might wanna check that one out.
Best of luck with everything.
#63
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Just blew up (sorta) another axle yesterday. Nothing spectacular though. CV Boot exploded threw grease everywhere with lots of smoke on hot rotors. Joy. Time to replace it. Im more pissed about having to scrub and polish the wheel to get it all off.
#65
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#68
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Id buy OEM if they werent 600+ bucks. Nothing was wrong with this axle, the boot just blew up (probably couldnt take my 150 topend run earlier that day I just changed the whole thing instead of messing with the boot
#70
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