Increase Redline?
Increase Redline?
Anyone know why the RSX type S's red line is 8000 and ours is 7000 RPM
Yeah yeah they are 2 different engines but everytime I see that damn RSX commercial where the driver shifts at 8000 RPM it really pisses me off cuz they technically have more VTEC range then us which is the most powerful and fun part
Did anyone's Comptech header increase there redline, I would just be curious? Also another question I had is did anyones Header really wake up their car? Make it a lot more fun to drive?
Yeah yeah they are 2 different engines but everytime I see that damn RSX commercial where the driver shifts at 8000 RPM it really pisses me off cuz they technically have more VTEC range then us which is the most powerful and fun part
Did anyone's Comptech header increase there redline, I would just be curious? Also another question I had is did anyones Header really wake up their car? Make it a lot more fun to drive?
haha...then get the RSX then...if u want higher, maybe an Integra type R, 9000rpm or higher if u get the mods
7000rpm redline is consider VERY HIGH for a V6 engine...
going more than redline won't give a faster accerlation(even slower) and damage ur engine...i can't see any reasons for complaining...u should be very proud of urself coz u have a V6 that can rev up to 7000rpm!!!
7000rpm redline is consider VERY HIGH for a V6 engine...
going more than redline won't give a faster accerlation(even slower) and damage ur engine...i can't see any reasons for complaining...u should be very proud of urself coz u have a V6 that can rev up to 7000rpm!!!
Originally posted by ElegantTL
LOL! If you want HIGH..get the Spoon Civic Type R! I believe it's a 11,000 redline. I forgot...
LOL! If you want HIGH..get the Spoon Civic Type R! I believe it's a 11,000 redline. I forgot...
:p
The headers will really make the car move from 5K to fuel cut-off (around 7200 rpm). The difference really shows up on a dyno graph with the torque staying level past 6000 rpm. The torque peak is moved up to around 6000 rpm and you will really feel it when you want to pull hard in each gear above 5K (as mentioned). The bonus feature is a much quicker pull in 3rd gear to around 113 MPH (according to my CLS' speedo). That is where you really feel the difference. If you expect it to help around town while putting around, or at low speeds, save your money and get some super light wheels.
As far as the 8000 rpm stuff goes. 7200 RPM is pretty nice for a SOHC front engine V6. My little 4-cylinder hot rod Bimmer only did 8400 rpm and that was with a ton of mods and crazy head work and valve springs. I know that the recommended shift point for best 1/4 mile time with I/H/E (intake/headers/exhaust) is around 7000 (based on the NHRA calculator), so I don't know how much you would gain by just moving the rev limit up without some other modifications to keep the torque flat at that rpm. If we could change gearing with a an engine that went to 8K (I sure don't know how to do it with our slushbox), that would be a different story as we could change the gearing/final gear ratio and get more torque to the wheels and that determines your acceleration. This would assume that the engine would take the stress of running at 8000 rpm.
Something to remember (go ahead and have fun): high revs increases engine wear. I'm not saying that you will burn-up an engine; the faster an engine rotates, the more wear per hour is put on an engine. Most of the cars you see with very high mileage -- with no oil burning that run like new -- were NOT driven at 7000 RPM every minute of the day!
Be happy you have a nice sounding engine that goes to 7 grand!
As far as the 8000 rpm stuff goes. 7200 RPM is pretty nice for a SOHC front engine V6. My little 4-cylinder hot rod Bimmer only did 8400 rpm and that was with a ton of mods and crazy head work and valve springs. I know that the recommended shift point for best 1/4 mile time with I/H/E (intake/headers/exhaust) is around 7000 (based on the NHRA calculator), so I don't know how much you would gain by just moving the rev limit up without some other modifications to keep the torque flat at that rpm. If we could change gearing with a an engine that went to 8K (I sure don't know how to do it with our slushbox), that would be a different story as we could change the gearing/final gear ratio and get more torque to the wheels and that determines your acceleration. This would assume that the engine would take the stress of running at 8000 rpm.
Something to remember (go ahead and have fun): high revs increases engine wear. I'm not saying that you will burn-up an engine; the faster an engine rotates, the more wear per hour is put on an engine. Most of the cars you see with very high mileage -- with no oil burning that run like new -- were NOT driven at 7000 RPM every minute of the day!
Be happy you have a nice sounding engine that goes to 7 grand!
Re: Increase Redline?
Originally posted by BFOR3
Anyone know why the RSX type S's red line is 8000 and ours is 7000 RPM
Yeah yeah they are 2 different engines but everytime I see that damn RSX commercial where the driver shifts at 8000 RPM it really pisses me off cuz they technically have more VTEC range then us which is the most powerful and fun part
Did anyone's Comptech header increase there redline, I would just be curious? Also another question I had is did anyones Header really wake up their car? Make it a lot more fun to drive?
Anyone know why the RSX type S's red line is 8000 and ours is 7000 RPM
Yeah yeah they are 2 different engines but everytime I see that damn RSX commercial where the driver shifts at 8000 RPM it really pisses me off cuz they technically have more VTEC range then us which is the most powerful and fun part
Did anyone's Comptech header increase there redline, I would just be curious? Also another question I had is did anyones Header really wake up their car? Make it a lot more fun to drive?

And no headers won't help you with the readline. The issue there is the revlimiter which I'm sure there are ways to get around.
The questions then become, do you really want to and wear your engine out sooner? You can get more RPMs out of this engine, but I wouldn't recommend it without doing some expensive engine work. Things like a more agressive cam, intake and blue printing are just some of the possibilities.
So 8000RPM would be fairly easy, assuming that you can get some of that stuff.
FWIW - I had a push rod V8 that turned 7600RPM and is was an every day driver for over 7 years.
I even hit over 8,000 once, by accident of course. Throttle stuck wide open once when the return spring snapped and hung it open. So the time it took me to get out of the car, pop the hood and pull the throttle shut, it was at WOT. Drove it for another 5 years after that.

RUF
Originally posted by evolaerok
$hit get a fvcking cbr 900 they rev to like 15k! Anywayz these are two different cars. The RSX-s is the sports car. Our cars are the luxo sport sedan that are driven by a large population of middle aged women...
:p
$hit get a fvcking cbr 900 they rev to like 15k! Anywayz these are two different cars. The RSX-s is the sports car. Our cars are the luxo sport sedan that are driven by a large population of middle aged women...
:p
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Originally posted by 2k2 TLS
Hey lets not jump ahead of ourselves. The RSX-S is a sports coupe, NOT a sports car. NSX is a sports car. Its like putting our tl's in the same class as the s500.
Hey lets not jump ahead of ourselves. The RSX-S is a sports coupe, NOT a sports car. NSX is a sports car. Its like putting our tl's in the same class as the s500.
That's true
Yeah I guess for a V6 that is damn good! and they always get higher RPM's in a 4. but I had just seen that RSX commercial and just got a little excited (Wow I guess that's all it takes anymore) that Viagra is finally kickin' in
I won't go into any crazy mods to this car cuz it's not worth it, maybe if I was back in highschool and could blow my whole check on car stuff, "those where the days". These damn trannies can't handle it anyway! and ElegantTL that Spoon Civic 11,000 RPM would be the Sh!t thou
I won't go into any crazy mods to this car cuz it's not worth it, maybe if I was back in highschool and could blow my whole check on car stuff, "those where the days". These damn trannies can't handle it anyway! and ElegantTL that Spoon Civic 11,000 RPM would be the Sh!t thou
Re: Re: Increase Redline?
Originally posted by Ruf87
FWIW - I had a push rod V8 that turned 7600RPM and is was an every day driver for over 7 years.
I even hit over 8,000 once, by accident of course. Throttle stuck wide open once when the return spring snapped and hung it open. So the time it took me to get out of the car, pop the hood and pull the throttle shut, it was at WOT. Drove it for another 5 years after that.
RUF
FWIW - I had a push rod V8 that turned 7600RPM and is was an every day driver for over 7 years.
I even hit over 8,000 once, by accident of course. Throttle stuck wide open once when the return spring snapped and hung it open. So the time it took me to get out of the car, pop the hood and pull the throttle shut, it was at WOT. Drove it for another 5 years after that.

RUF
Funny, I saw that (comment of yours) and it brought back memories of why I put in a 2nd return spring and associated hardware on my sidedraft webbers. There is nothing like an older engine going WAY past redline (9K+) while grabbing for the key to kill the thing. It lasted a long, long time... However, it would have lasted longer with the lower revs and with Mobil-1!
Sure extend the redline if:
1) You like to have the innards of your engine splattered in the oil pan
2) You like to accelerate slower. No one has mentioned the fact that optimum accleeration is a function of keeping the car in the fat part of the torque curve, which in some cars actually means "short-shifitng" or shifting BEFORE redline. The Acura engineers take the design of the engine and the troque curve into consideration in setting shift points, gear ratios, etc.
And remember, the V-6 has much higher reciprocating mass than those sewing machine engines.
1) You like to have the innards of your engine splattered in the oil pan
2) You like to accelerate slower. No one has mentioned the fact that optimum accleeration is a function of keeping the car in the fat part of the torque curve, which in some cars actually means "short-shifitng" or shifting BEFORE redline. The Acura engineers take the design of the engine and the troque curve into consideration in setting shift points, gear ratios, etc.
And remember, the V-6 has much higher reciprocating mass than those sewing machine engines.
Originally posted by Road Rage
Sure extend the redline if:
1) You like to have the innards of your engine splattered in the oil pan
2) You like to accelerate slower. No one has mentioned the fact that optimum accleeration is a function of keeping the car in the fat part of the torque curve, which in some cars actually means "short-shifitng" or shifting BEFORE redline. The Acura engineers take the design of the engine and the troque curve into consideration in setting shift points, gear ratios, etc.
And remember, the V-6 has much higher reciprocating mass than those sewing machine engines.
Sure extend the redline if:
1) You like to have the innards of your engine splattered in the oil pan
2) You like to accelerate slower. No one has mentioned the fact that optimum accleeration is a function of keeping the car in the fat part of the torque curve, which in some cars actually means "short-shifitng" or shifting BEFORE redline. The Acura engineers take the design of the engine and the troque curve into consideration in setting shift points, gear ratios, etc.
And remember, the V-6 has much higher reciprocating mass than those sewing machine engines.
Yes, as a matter of fact, the torque peak (max acceleration) with headers and AEM CAI is right around 6000 RPM, and it falls off petty fast. THE NHRA calc (using the current gear ratios and a TLS/CLS with mods) shows the optimal shift point for the headers + AEM setup being around 7000 rpm (not higher).
The torque curve will match the acceleration of the car (torque being equivalent to force, HP to power).
I had the luxury of trying out the GTECH peak acceleration function (before and after the headers and CAI), and with the pre-header/CAI setup, the max-acceleration was NOT from 5000- to 7000-RPM; it was in the 4-5K range (torque to the wheels is a function of gear ratio and "effective torque" at the wheels).
If someone has their own dyno graph handy -- you will need the torque figures NOT the HP, you can plug in the data in the following link and it will give optimum shift points: (Or, try going to the Comptech site and using their pre and post header curves…)
"Shift Point Calculator" (you will need the gear ratios from the acura.com web site and the "right" dyno graph with torque values/rpm):
http://www.prestage.com/carmath/dynochart.asp
Re: Re: Re: Increase Redline?
Originally posted by EricL
Funny, I saw that (comment of yours) and it brought back memories of why I put in a 2nd return spring and associated hardware on my sidedraft webbers. There is nothing like an older engine going WAY past redline (9K+) while grabbing for the key to kill the thing. It lasted a long, long time... However, it would have lasted longer with the lower revs and with Mobil-1!
Funny, I saw that (comment of yours) and it brought back memories of why I put in a 2nd return spring and associated hardware on my sidedraft webbers. There is nothing like an older engine going WAY past redline (9K+) while grabbing for the key to kill the thing. It lasted a long, long time... However, it would have lasted longer with the lower revs and with Mobil-1!
Anyway, there's nothing like the sound of a bigger engine pushing the high RPMS.
RUF
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