How difficult to install headers?
How difficult to install headers?
Alright, here's some background of my 'mechanical' skills. I know how to change my oil, install a CAI, change brakepads, and install an exhaust. From reading Comptech's directions on header installation, the process seems like a plug and play installation. Is it really possible for me to screw this up? What about torqueing the bolts. What psi should they be torqued to? I know I should retorque the bolts after a few weeks right? The O2 sensor, how is that removed/installed? Do I just plug it back in?
One more thing, do I need to 'break-in' new headers? They are stainless steel.(Stone Racing SS headers)
Thanks!
One more thing, do I need to 'break-in' new headers? They are stainless steel.(Stone Racing SS headers)
Thanks!
umm.. maybe its not that bad to do with comptech headers or others.. but i heard many people have trouble installing the Stone headers because some adjustments had to be made.. unless you know what youre doing with the proper fitment of the headers, you should go to a mechanic. just my input.
Its not very hard to install the headers, if you have a hoist it should take about 45mins to an hour. It is pretty much plug and play with comptech headers. If you have never done anything like this before and want to learn just have someone who has done it before around you at the time and you should be good. Otherwise just go to a mechanic, it wont cost you very much to get done.
Originally Posted by rbrown55
anyone have a step by step guide to removing the old and putting the new on?
remove o2 sensor plug, remove bolts for lower piece where it attaches to cat and front and rear manifold down pipes. remove and set aside. remove bolts from front and rear upper manifold pieces. take out o2 sensor from old pipe install in new. (being carefull not to damage) reverse directions for install.
that sums it up in a nut shell.
its not hard, the only hard thing is getting all the bolts tighend down correctly as to avoid leaks. Also sometimes the bolts are hard as hell to get off. I broke a bolt off in my old trucks block (the last f'in one!!!) that delayed my another few hours, then I couldnt get to the very back bolt very good, so it was always leaking. I finally went to a shop to get them to get to it with an air tool - never had a problem again.
that is why I spent some extra money this time to get them installed right the first time. But if I wasnt in college and I had a good jack and air tools, I would do it myself probably.
that is why I spent some extra money this time to get them installed right the first time. But if I wasnt in college and I had a good jack and air tools, I would do it myself probably.
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
place front of car on ramps or jack up and place jack stands under
remove o2 sensor plug, remove bolts for lower piece where it attaches to cat and front and rear manifold down pipes. remove and set aside. remove bolts from front and rear upper manifold pieces. take out o2 sensor from old pipe install in new. (being carefull not to damage) reverse directions for install.
that sums it up in a nut shell.
remove o2 sensor plug, remove bolts for lower piece where it attaches to cat and front and rear manifold down pipes. remove and set aside. remove bolts from front and rear upper manifold pieces. take out o2 sensor from old pipe install in new. (being carefull not to damage) reverse directions for install.
that sums it up in a nut shell.
Regarding air tools... yes they help, but I've also seen them turn the heads of bolts off! Plus, you should usually not use air tools to reinstall the bolts that have specific torque requirements. Kinda bothers me to see people on TV shows reinstalling suspension components with an impact wrench. The torque settings on impact wrenches are not all that accurate and at full settings, they can apply 400 - 600 ft pounds. Not saying anyone recommended this, just a warning. Yes, I have a compressor with impact wrench (IR) as well as air socket wrenches. Haven't had to use a cheater bar in years!
ya your are 100% right on using them to put bolts back in, but when you have a bolt thats hard to get to, an air tool can apply enough torque to get it on right...at least that was my problem with my truck. I dont know if there are bolts on our cars that are hard to get on.
It all depends on what you use to hoist your car up. If you have experience it shouldnt take more than an hour or so, if its your first time you might go at a slower pace just to make sure everything is all set. Using a twin post lift or a muffler rack is the easiest, but jacking your car up or using small ramps works also...just not the easiest way to do it. just remember, whatever you take off (with the exception of the manifolds) goes back onto the car, so dont forget what goes where, although there isnt much to get mixed up.
Originally Posted by MikePA
The only thing I'd add to this is to spray all bolts with penetrating oil before trying to remove them.
Regarding air tools... yes they help, but I've also seen them turn the heads of bolts off! Plus, you should usually not use air tools to reinstall the bolts that have specific torque requirements. Kinda bothers me to see people on TV shows reinstalling suspension components with an impact wrench. The torque settings on impact wrenches are not all that accurate and at full settings, they can apply 400 - 600 ft pounds. Not saying anyone recommended this, just a warning. Yes, I have a compressor with impact wrench (IR) as well as air socket wrenches. Haven't had to use a cheater bar in years!
Regarding air tools... yes they help, but I've also seen them turn the heads of bolts off! Plus, you should usually not use air tools to reinstall the bolts that have specific torque requirements. Kinda bothers me to see people on TV shows reinstalling suspension components with an impact wrench. The torque settings on impact wrenches are not all that accurate and at full settings, they can apply 400 - 600 ft pounds. Not saying anyone recommended this, just a warning. Yes, I have a compressor with impact wrench (IR) as well as air socket wrenches. Haven't had to use a cheater bar in years!

The Re Install part is obvious as you need to torque to specific numbers.
And shimbo, if you want me to do them for you, I can. Or if you just want someone there to help whos done it before, let me know.
Theres nothing to break in with headers. Just put them on an go. The ECU will take a day or two to adjust, then you'll feel the full gains of the headers.
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