98_2.5_TL

almost no aftermarket or factory car amplifier can handle 6 amps of input signal. I think you're speaking of Volts.

importvizion

yea I works really well actually just gotta mess wit the setitngs because the sub isn't thumping hard enuff rite now

victorvu

iTrader: (1)

haha alright nice to hear ill get the remote wire pictures on soon. if you want you can use the remote wire that im using. so you can sit in your car and listen to your mids and not drain your battery and if you want some bass turn the key on and there it goes BOOOM BOOOOOOOOOOOM

fsttyms1

redsly

Quote:

Originally Posted by importvizion

yea I works really well actually just gotta mess wit the setitngs because the sub isn't thumping hard enuff rite now

Let me get this straight...

You and victor are using the input line that goes right to the factory sub? If that is true then you are using the factory amp output signal instead of the low voltage signal that goes into the factory amp. That means that the signal in which you are using is the amplified signal and not a low voltage signal like you would need for the RCA inputs on an amp. If this is the case, you are 1) risking the chance of blowing your amp or sub(s) 2)getting a very distorted signal without knowing it 3)you have a setup that is phucked since you are putting high level inputs into receptacles that are designed for low level inputs...

Long story short, you spliced wires that could mess it all up!!!

I unfortunately do not have the low level inputs to the factory amp (that I know of) since I don't have a factory sub, but have read these DIY many times. General knowledge of car audio tells me that you will eventually have a problem from this.

Now the reason why I quoted you...

If you were using high level inputs to your amp, which from what I got from your post is that you are, you will have NOWHERE near that power coming from the amp as you would with a true low level input.

Right now I have my amp hooked up to high level inputs (once again no factory sub in my car and I don't want to loose the 6 disc in dash cd player) and I get nothing remotely close to the "thump" that I used to get in my other car with the same amp and sub. I was frustrated to not know why it was so quiet at first so I hooked the rca's up to my after market radio that I put in my g/f's car and the bass was at least 10 times louder. Sure, I get the perk that I don't have to have a remote wire with my amp since it picks up the signal on the high level inputs and automatically turns the amp on and off with the radio (no popping which is good)... But I suggest that this is your problem. Take the time to take out the back seat and gain access to your factory amp and splice your RCA to the two wires on the amp INPUT harness (the one that comes from your equalizer) that are wrapped in brown shielding. They are supposed (from what I read on here from TL owners) to be great sources of low level inputs for true rca connections to your amp. It's a single channel (mono) setup, so you would need a "Y" connector if your amp is not a mono amp. I tried using a few in-line converters from high to low and the Bose system kept messing them up, so I don't suggest that...

Just take the time to splice in to the brown wires... Bottom line, you'll be happy (from what TL owners have testified).

Sorry for a long book here...


EDIT: Oh, and take the time to solder the wires and use heat shrinking tubing. You will probably get better clarity and you will have the security of knowing the wires won't come apart after hitting to many bumps. Not to mention you can be sure that the plastic connectors aren't hiding a loose connection from your visual check...

redsly

Oh, and you will find an orange wire that goes into the factory amp where you find the brown shielded wires. That wire is the remote turn on from the radio for the factory amp. You can just tap into that wire at the amp and not have to run all the way to the front of the vehicle and risk shorting out an important wire that goes to something important. If you want to use your radio without the subs like victor said, you can always do it his way. I was just letting you know for your own info...

fsttyms1

if it is hooked up to the high level with the RCA's you could be causing damage to the amp. Go buy a line converter if your going to run it that way.

TL.00.3.2

This has been a very helpful thread for me. I attempted to add an amp and box over the weekend but didn't finish it. Following fstyms1, i bought a LOC *line out converter* and it says to connect the + and - to the left and right speaker respectively. But in the picture posted by fsttyms1 there is only one + and -.... My question is "Can i just twist both +'s to make 1 and both -'s to make another then connect them to the wire fsttyms1 said?" I would appreciate any input. THANKS!

redsly

Quote:

Originally Posted by TL.00.3.2

This has been a very helpful thread for me. I attempted to add an amp and box over the weekend but didn't finish it. Following fstyms1, i bought a LOC *line out converter* and it says to connect the + and - to the left and right speaker respectively. But in the picture posted by fsttyms1 there is only one + and -.... My question is "Can i just twist both +'s to make 1 and both -'s to make another then connect them to the wire fsttyms1 said?" I would appreciate any input. THANKS!

Ok, you obviously are going to use RCA inputs...

If you plan on using a LOC, don't even look at fsttyms1's picture. That is not the setup you would use...

HOWEVER, if you have the seat out and you are looking at the factory amp, you do NOT use a LOC. You simply get an RCA connector. Solder a length of wire from the brown shielded wires (the end of it at the factory amp) to the RCA connector. After that, simply plug the RCA into your low level inputs. If your remote is already wired in, you should be all set. If it is not connected, simply connect your amp's remote wire to the ORANGE (factory harness) wire that goes into the factory amp... It's that simple

LOCs are for when you use the wires that are going into the speakers (or would be going into the speakers) that are for your mids. If you feel you must go this way, I must say, don't go out and buy those cheap $6 ones. Spend $60 and try that... Overall I don't suggest you use those at all...

fsttyms1

60 dollar ones ARE NOT needed. Although i dont recomend the 6 dollar ones either. I had a 20$ one that lasted for 3+ years and did the job fine. Obviously if going this route for a stereo they arent going for true sound quality and the little difference wouldnt be noticed by anyone.

TL.00.3.2

thanks a million guys, i'm gonna head over to radioshack to get the things u said i needed. I'll let u know who everything goes once i finish this install.

victorvu

iTrader: (1)

well i had the system on my car for over a year now and just replaced the oem deck because i wanted a mp3 deck. i took the quickest and easiest way out . i didnt need to remove any chairs or anything. just straight up jacked the low output from the stock sub and used it. i dont see why it would mess up the factory amp, and i ran aftermarket speakers that was 45rms each 100 peak. and nothing blew everything is still working fine.

redsly

Ok, the line you used is a HIGH output line. The equalizer makes the FREQUENCY RESPONSE of that line low, not the voltage in the line. It will still work, but you will get no where near what you would with hooking them up to a true Low level input (correct voltage).
I don't know, I double checked my factory amp today and found that there was no wire for me to use for a low level input to my amp. So to this point, the only thing I know about the TL's is what I have read in forum, but I do know some stuff about car audio. I don't have a voltmeter and a TL to test the levels...
You should do what I said before and see if there is a big difference or not... You should love the difference.

trock

I'm lost again I guess there's different way to go. do you any of you guys have problems with engine noise or power issues without a cap?

TL.00.3.2

Hey guys just wanted to let you all know i finally finshed the DIY for the amp/ box install. I actually ended up using a LOC (line out converter) it was $30 at best buy and soldered it to the harness on the factory amp. ( The one that victor was using) I'll post pictures soon so that if anyone else attempts this it will be a piece of cake.

redsly

tsk tsk...

TL.00.3.2

why tsk tsk?

Rpappi

what the hell. i got my amp and subs installed. but there is a problem i cant get the remote wire to work with the orange wire. i tested it with a voltmeter and its only showing that it is getting 6.01 volts and it need 12v to turn on all the way. and i tried running it from the fuses and they would not work either. right now i have it running strait to the battery with a switch in the middle. but i dont want to worry about the switch. i just want it to turn off when i turn off the car. plz help

redsly

Because, even though you soldered it and everything, you went and hooked it up to speaker outputs from the factory amp instead of the low level inputs going into the factory amp.
Hey, as long as you are happy!

redsly

Have you checked the end of the orange wire that is located behind the factory head unit?
There might be a break some where...
Waite... There should be no reason for that to be at 6Volts... Did you have your volt meter on the correct setting?

Hmmmm. You have an accessory outlet in your middle console, right?
Tap into that wire and run it straight back under the carpet to your trunk...
My accessory outlets turn off when I shut the car off, that is why I say use that.

Rpappi

i may try that i just got my wisdom teeth taken away from me this morning. so it will be a few days.