searched all over couldn't seem to find a good post relating to my issue
I have a recently acquired 03 TL-S with little over 230k on odo.
recent work: all egr ports and valve, cleaned throttle body, valve adjust 25k ago, new ngk iridium plugs, previous owner said new coils for plugs around 180k ish (has 230k now) said they were OEM(says Hitachi on side of all(I thought denso was oem??)), somewhat cleaned IACV(meaning i couldnt get bolts off with phillips and ended up spraying carb clean down the IACV port on throttle body, then sprayed wd40 in it and over the throttle body.

My issue: it cold starts just fine but when warm starting usually after 20 mins- maybe 2 hours later after sitting it starts but will start around 500 rpms( the bold line right above the 0 rpm line) will only do it around 1-2 seconds then runs normal and no issues after its started, it runs just fine although sometimes it feels sluggish/underpowered when taking foot off brake on level surface. this only happens maybe 7/10 times (when warm starting)

also what is the 'pop' noise heard around the throttle body when revving engine in park? just notice it when hood is up and i rev then take foot off gas and its settling i hear a pop noise in that area.
thanks in advance for any help!

 

Meant all egr ports and valve cleaned. and all recent work meaning within past 1K miles trying to remedy this

 

you need to clean the iacv properly- if you look at pics its a small rod with an air slit that gets clogged, and the rod must freely rotate in its chamber.
Plus the electrical part of it has been failing more often- as reported on here

 

Could be a defective fuel pressure regulator. Disconnect the vacuum hose and see if fuel leaks from there within 25 minutes after parking.

 

Listen to 01tl4tl, and 01acls. Search for some generic troubleshooting youtube videos. Briansmobil1 is a good place to start, he recently did a video on stall diagnosis

 

Alright so I pulled off the vacuum hose just like you said and there was no fuel present. So it must be the iacv just in need of a better clean. Regarding getting it off, what is the best way to do so without stripping the bolts, is it easier to just pliers and grip the bolts and twist? Just doing my homework before starting a job. Thanks everyone!

 

FPR

It has to be monitor for the whole duration of the time it takes for the no start. Not just pull the hose and its not wet it's good.

It needs to be a visual confirmation. There won't be any dampess from pass leaks cause gas evaporates and the hose is under vacuum so the gas will be sucked away too.

 

Oh ok, didn't understand. I'll put a paper towel under the hose after removal and see, also it's never not started, it just starts at very low rpms for a sec or two then comes to Normal idle and doesn't happen every time just happens more times then doesnt

 

If fuel leaks it will leak out from FPR not from the hose. It's not going to be much, just a little. Just enough to relieve the pressure from the FPR and to introduce air into the fuel rail/lines to give you the low idle/hard start. Once pressure builds back up then i'll run normal again.

 

The 'pop' could just be the butterfly valve shutting.

 

Lately I have been diagnosing this issue, I replicated the hot start condition and hooked up a scan tool to look at the fuel trims. At first theres an extended crank then miss fires with low RPM, 5 seconds later the oxygen sensor goes into closed Loop and the fuel trims go as high as 25%, Slowly then the ecu regains control and the engine goes back to normal.

I used a can of brake cleaner to spray around the intake and be able to find a vacuum leak, So I sprayed the Egr valve and notice the fuel trims start to react. Maybe this is the culprit, I have another valve laying around so Ill post back with the results.

 

Heres the reaction when the EGR valve is sprayed. Red arrows shown

 

The oxygen sensor seems to be working fine. Runs rich at startup then trims to lean out the rich mixture.

 

Yes the O2 is doing its job.
The picture is not the startup trims, its the Egr valve while the engine is at idle and warmed up.
I will post the the startup trims when I have a chance.

 

So we're saying that a longer crank time isn't normal? I have always noticed how my car turns on with less amount of starter cranking when the car is cold vs it being hot

 

These are just my observations when I replicate the hot start issue most of us are facing.
May or may not be normal.

 

^ Definitely not normal.

In the early models it was heak soak due to low fuel pressure.

Possible solution for early models...

TSB 01-001

Install use or new later model ecm that supports the Black Dot FPR.


Possible causes for later models that already have the newer ecm/black dot FPR...

Defective...

FPR or using the wrong FPR.

Injectors - leaking

Evap Shut Off Valve and O2 sensors

Fuel Pump - low fuel pressure

Note: Not in any particular order.

 

 

Dang, idk how much a pcm costs but it sounds expensive lol. The fuel pressure regulator isn't that bad.

 

^ Your 03 TLS should be fine. Make sure it has the black dot.

The fix for you is in the "Later" list.

 

Will do, Thanks for the help and info guys!