Hey guys,

quick questions for a troubling matter. I have had really rough starts and took it the dealer and they couldnt figure it out. They wanted to charge me to replace fuel pump which was $$$. Basically my issue is that I leave my car parked overnight and the morning it turns over but has a really rough start. It stalls sometimes but after the first hard start in the morning there is no problem the rest of the day until the next morning. After some research I am guessing its a fuel pressure regulator. Has any one replaced one before and if so is there a DIY?

Your input is much appreciated!!

Thanks

 

Just out of curiousity, when you turn on the ignition key do you go directly from OFF to START? If so try turning key to ON (position before "start" on ignition switch)for 3-4 secs then proceed to START, this allows the fuel pump to repressurize the fuel system completely before the motor is asked to start up.

 

year and miles?
changed the spark plugs? use only NGK Iridium or NGK Platinum

cleaned the EGR port system?-that clogs up at about 75kmiles and causes many problems
easy DIY- 2 hours and 3 cans carb cleaner

a plug in scanner with live data or a mechanical fuel pressure guage hooked up in -line
are the only ways to tell if it really loses fuel pressure,,doesnt sound like it
Go with basic first- plug condition and egr cleaning

 

I also had this problem at around 170kish miles,
My local mechanic looked up some tsb's or whatever they're called and thought this was the same exact problem.. but reading the tsbs you would have to change the fuel p regultor and as well you would have to flash the ecm.. that was too much money so I just never did it.

Now here comes the good part...
That wasn't even the problem! Finally got sick of the hard starts and saved up some money to get this problem fiixed.. and I took it to my honda dealer and told them the symptoms. They scanned for codes and found a code cleared several times by my mechanic, long story short... it was just a bad oxygen senso r they found and was a lot cheaper than I thought to have it fixed! If you have near my mileage I suggest testing your

OXYGEN SENSORS!

And I hope that helps and fixes your hard start problem!
- Alex

 

The car is a 99 with 156K miles on it. I did a timing belt change and new spark plugs at 128k. I just had a egr port cleaning a few weeks ago. The problem was when I took it to the dealer they couldnt recreate the problem. It seems when it sits there its fine but when I drive it around and THEN let it sit overnight it seems like stutter and start hard. I think the dealer did a line pressure test and it seemed ok. The basically said we have no clue.

shiftmech: I do turn it on to let the system pressure to build and the main relay clicks. I do that and its not as a hard start but sometimes makes no difference. So I dont think its a fuel pump issue.

alexh1266: my car is about the same milage as yours. how much did they ask for the reflash and new regulator vs. a new o2 sensor? So your saying I should replace the o2 sensor? Do you know which part it was and what the code it was throwing?

Thanks guys appreciate your help!!!

 

The main efi relay can click, and still not work. Intermittent failures are very common, and usually show up as a hard start or no start.

 

how can i check to see if the efi relay is bad or not?

 

also there are no CEL? its happened when its cold and warm?

 

This sounds like the very same problem i was having! The new fpr and reflash was easily over $1000. We have 2 oxygen sensors. The dealer can test them to see if they respond or what not, so they went ahead and did that and found that the o2 sensor before the cat was not responding, thus failing. about $150ish i believe to have it replaced at the HONDA dealer. I feel Acura dealers suck now a days and just try to rip you off

Sorry i dont remember the code, but the CEL would not remain lit and only flash during those hard COLD start ups! Once the car was warm and had been driven for a while I wouldn't get this problem until it was a COLD start again!

 

alrighty...had my o2 sensors checked and they show good. Has any one replaced their fuel pressure regulator? I would go to this as the next viable option or a bad relay?

 

I wouldn't dick with the regulator as that isn't the problem, if it was then you would have drivability issues as well, as the rgulator is what controls the pressure to the injectors so if it is bad then idle and overall engine performance would be an issue as well, a hard start issue is a poorly tune-up engine that has old or the wrong plugs in it, a clogged fuel filter, a worn timing belt, clogged airfilter, shitty gas in the tank, water in the tank, a carboned up top end, or the operator pressing the gas pedel during cranking like an idiot, so if you want to replace the regulator knock your self out just don't cry when it doesn't fix the problem.

 

I couldn't aggee much more with that... at the same time I replaced my bad o2 sensor I also had them replace tthe evap canister and shut valve due to a p1657 code I believe it was and tha helped my hard starts

 

Most typically, just replace it.

 

Could it be a faulty Coolant Temperature Sensor? Has anyone replaced this? Ive replaced all my spark plugs and EFI main Relay but still happens.

 

verify its on NGK spark plugs- Iridium (upgrade) or Platiunum (stock)
not some acdelco or similar wrong plug for our cars--that will make it run bad

how were the O2 sensors ckd? electrical or tailpipe sniffer?
for my money and this much hassle in diagnostic: I would replace the front O2-- based on mileage and typical wearout
reset ECU !! with clock fuse removal method
after that,,,and if still any issue- replace the fi relay

as well explained by rcb- if regulator was bad you would know it all the time

Its not that acura doesnt care or tries to rip you off--if a car isnt demonstrating the symptoms when they test it--what can they do? randomly replace parts in hopes of a fix?
thats like doing all 6 coils based on multi cyl misfire codes!!
you have to be the service writers dream to do that~

 

Seems like that could contribute to your problem. If the sensor is telling the computer (in error) that the engine is warm when in fact it's stone cold, maybe the computer isn't giving the engine enough fuel to start easily.
Download the manual if you don't have it & see if there's a test for that sensor. Don't have mine handy or I would look.

 

Ok..The car finally stopped starting and just cranked forever. I had it towed to local honda dealer and Im not sure if they are pulling my leg but this is what they said..

That there was a p1361 code. Which is code that tells where the piston is. Something to do with TDC. He said when he took off the cover and noticed the timing belt was off by one tooth. He said this could be really bad for the car. They want me to replace all spark plugs (they are fouled) and replace timing belt and tensioner. THEN, that would just allow it to crank back up then could lead to internal damage of which they will have to run compression tests to figure out if there is valve damage. This just seems like a lot.

The timing belt was replaced just 30k miles ago. What could cause this and is this just the sensor or actually happen. Should I get another mechanic to look at it before shelling out 1000 bucks to fix this?

 

has it been running bad since the timing belt change?
was the belt tensioner replaced and its roller pulley?
If not, they may well be correct-
in which case get a junkyard motor and drop it in -way cheaper and more dependable if your current unit has the suspected problem

a crank postion sensor could be at fault,,it has to know TDc in order to fire correctly- that would usually cause poor running, but the fouled plugs are pointing to a more serious problem- there are no good reasons for that--

did you install ngk plugs with the timing belt job?

If the gear were off a tooth- it would run bad and by now I would think bent valves-
actually, the extensive cranking you did has caused the damage already-
dealer will get parts installed - retest and will say it needs heads--pretty much guaranteed

we have little clearance inside for exhaust valve to piston when valve opens and piston comes up at wrong time = BANG -bends the valve stem and it wont seal-= loss of compression and bad running,,could lead to fouled plugs

they must be concerned about that, and its true you have to get it back together and test compression --but turning the engine over with starter to do the test can damage things!!

I know there is a long backstory of this car not starting suddenly and the various parts trying to get it going

Engine Gurus'
is it possible the tensioner failed and allowed a misalignemnt of the timing?
you hear about them `jumping a tooth` but I have never seen it in person

if so: auto recyclers is the new name for junkyard to get a replacement engine

 

and i would have gone iridium, but they do not make a colder heat range for our cars , so i had to go coppers/v-power for the


i replaced mine at like 110K just because i felt it was getting a little slow in the response

 

so exactly what spark plugs did you install fries??

not to be confused with OP problem

 

NGK ZFR7F-1, had to find them from a special source


and they were V-powers, got them mixed up

 

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!

Hello all, I want thank you for all of your input!!1

The breakdown is as follows..

-After going to three Acura Dealers and a Honda dealer, it was a private mechanic that figured out why my car wouldnt start.

It was a Top Dead Center (TDC) sensor that was faulty. The code only came up when it failed to work. So if you get bad start with no codes this might be something to have checked. Follow the normal checks first as above (sparkplugs, ignition switch, seafoam, egr value ect)

To replace the sensor you have to take off the timing belt and might as well have it replaced while they are there. So in short a new timing belt ($52.20)and new TDC sensor($51.90) and labor for tow/diagnostic/and repairs ($383.95). My car runs great now!! So for those that end up clue less as to why their car hesitates during start and it doesnt point to the normal issues this is a point to consider.

Hope this helps people out in the future.

Thanks again for everyones help

 

I called it!!!

`a crank postion sensor` could be at fault,,it has to know TDc in order to fire correctly-

 

others in this situation may want to do the full 105 as part of that repair-
add water pump- new tbelt tensioner and roller pullies etc

its really important to replace those tensioners if you expect the car to keep going another 105 before the next time they are all due for replacement again

the engine will go 200-300kmiles ++++ no sweat if you keep up on oil changes and dont overheat it~ or lose a pulley and timing belt jumps a tooth--engine self destructs