hi guys.after finish doing a seafoam when turn off the engine i heard the engine knock,let it sit for 10 minutes and drive the car the knocking continues for 3 or 4 minutes then its stopped .any major damage to the car?what were those knocking noise?

 

excess seafoam in system,
after startup:
You are supposed to let it idle -slightly above idle for 2 minutes or so until it will cleanly rev to 2000
then drive in low gear at 2000 so it burns up the heavily dosed mix seafoam and gas
When it will rev to 4000 take it for a good 5-10 minute hot foot drive,,keep under 5000 rpm
Smoke and noise will go away

How much seafoam did you put where? followed the diy?

 

also, what octane was in the gas tank before you dumped some seafoam in there?

 

Did you turn the car off with the vacuum line disconnected?

 

Thank you guys for your responed.
I bought 2 bottles & used only half of the bottle in the intake & half in the fuel tank with 91 octane. After the 10 minutes wait i started the car & let it idle for 2 minutes & drive slowly for roughly 2km because i was so afraid,luckily the noise was gone by the time i merge onto the hwy.The car seems fine now but it scared the crap out of me.So no major damaged?One for things guys can someone like me who have absolutely no knowledge about the car should go ahead and do the valves adjustment?the diy looks very convincing.I just got the mdx spacer & wait for my nephew to wire cut it, so i thought i might as well do the valves adjustment like someone suggested it.

 

you want 1 bottle to just under 1/2 tank, so its 2 oz per gallon fuel
thats cleaning dose and works fast!
less than 3/4 oz to gal fuel is not doing much

 

when you get close to 50/50 dilution in manifold/plenums thru vac port- the engine cant burn the mix fully and you get pre-ignition,,along with all the liquified carbon crud- thats the noise

 

Thank you for your replied.Oh by the way i only had 1/4 of the fuel in the tank.So should i go ahead and do the valves adjustment because the ticking noise is annoying.

 

how many miles..near 100? go ahead and do valve adjustment
It takes exactness in the process!

I would run that half can of seafoam in oil for 30 minutes drive,,or more.
that will clean the places the valve measurement is taken, as well as the oil passages and vtec slider parts
then change oil and filter with fluid warm

next day when engine dead cold- adjust valves

are you sure its valve noise? ckd with $5 mechanics stethascope?
injectors make noise, ac belt tensioner goes bad...

 

do the gas method again when you run the 1/4 tank out.
more time and product = more effect for you money
this time half tank- full can

did you get the TB air plate clean too?
do when removing parts to work on valves

 

Thank you very much Sir.I'll do all the things you mentioned above.It has 17400km second trans at about 90000km,timing belt changed at 15600km.Recently when i start the car & drive slowly I'll Some kind of noise like the belt is slipping or something&the belt is making noise too,so i just order 2 belts.

 

go buy the $5 stethascope at parts store
listen to the tensioner pulley at top of engine- the a/c belt tensioner is the common name used here. Place probe tip on non moving base, it will sound good or like gravel
It fails and makes a weird noise for some time before total failure
All the while its not keeping correct tension on the belts and allows noise from them

you have plenty of engine use to merit the valve adjustment

also clean the egr ports and passages while you have the intake manifold removed
and remove the TB from manifold, flip over and clean IACV under round cover.
you will need a few gaskets to do the job right, but a few dollars is worth it
the egr makes a major differance in engine running
needs to be done every 75kMiles

lube throttle cables, and the return spring assembly on TB

 

Thank you.I try to get this stethascope .This is embarrassing but do you have a picture of this a/c belt tensioner .I should replace it if it's bad right?How much is this tensioner cost & is it easy to replace?

 

open the hood and look to your left--the front of the engine
at the very top front, you can see the top of a belt going around a roller wheel
with a moveable arm--thats the tensioner

If you rev the engine slightly you will see it move to keep constant tension on the belt
With your kms I would plan on it being bad,,many go at half that!

A long screwdriver works as a listening tool for bearings!
tensioner assembly with both pieces of it runs about 100 dollars
ck various parts stores--you want a complete unit

ck our diy section- its probably there:
to replace, remove passenger side inner fender liner- find its 3 bolts- release belt from tensioner--replace part- make sure belt is on exactly the way diagram shows!!
slip over tensioner- --
put inner fender liner back yadyada

 

I'm going to start work on my clicking issue as well.
After midterms im going to get on diagnosing this and getting the belt changed.

Maybe i can run the parts list i plan on getting by everyone...?

 

the major points of clicking under hood are ac belt tensioner,
and the purge valve/cannister on driver side

valves make noise and so do the injectors but its very smooth and with rythym
a bad bearing makes a way different sound!

 

Hi 01tl4tl. So i went and bought the stethascope yesterday & didn't have the time to test it out because my wife & my daughter keep bugging me.Today when i tested it on top of valves cover it did seems to come from inside the cover & tested on the very top pulley it made a very high constant pitch sound like errrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

^the one on bottom ac pulley tensioner sounded bad like gravels specially when i turned the AC on

 

oh i forgot when i pressed the belt that goes around ac belt tensioner it seems dried & sounded like cracking.

 

oh man I'm getting old I forgot to ask you about the ac belt tensioner.I noticed there is a raised casting line on one half & there is a casting raised portion on the other half with a groove in it.Is this line on the front half should lined up in the groove? Thank you.

 

why even use the seafoam if your not going to use the shit right in the first place? you have to have higher rpms for it to buroff the shit on the valves letting it burn off at idle doesn't do a damn thing but waiste the money you spent on the bottle of seafoam.

 

its critical you wait until there is a higher mix of gas to seafoam in the system by letting it run at just above idle for a minute or two until it sounds clear and will rev to 2000
Then start your driving
doesnt do any good to force the engine when its not getting full fuel ratio
You cause preignition and knocking!

the important factors in seafoaming: preheat drive, adding product, cooking time, start, blowout drive

 

Hi 01tl4tl. sorry to bother you but can you look at Qoute starting from #17-20 and give me some ideas in this matter.

 

I dont recall what pulley is on the bottem of ac belt, but if it sounds like gravel and you now know what good bearings sound like in other areas--its failing
probably just a roller/idler bearing and wont cost much

for the line marks- will have to look at mine in daylight,,it may be a worn out tensioner mark or for a max limit when compressing tensioner to get belt on

dry cracked belt--why are we still discussing this? you know it needs new~

 

Hi 01tl4tl.sorry what i meant was ac belt tensioner sounded like gravels .How about the area at power steering pulley. It got a high constant pitch sound like errrrrrrrrrrrrr?

 

ok so you need an ac belt tensioner--normal failure
the ps bearing should have a constant whir

to my knowledge: Only time a failure has been reported there is after the timing belt job and ps belt was installed too tight...bearings are going to fail

compare sound to alternator, and ck other cars to know what sounds normal

 

Thank you 01tl4tl. Just got the ac belt tensioner and the 2 belts replaced yesterday but the belt slipping kind of noise was still there.How tight should the power steering belt be?I got about 0.880" from top of the bolt to the top of the nut using the vernier caliper where as 0.980" before.Can any of the members check the exact height of the power steering tensioner bolt for 2001 tl-p?I am not sure it is related but now the steering wheel stop or seem to be less shaking when i applied the brakes.

 

that tension is critical!!!! too tight causes many probs
ck the 105 service DIY for specs

 

Thank you. Now i got worry. What is the correct way to install the power steering pump? What i did was tighten the 2 bolts tight & did the tensioner bolt last.I could not seem to tighten the nut down to the same position as before so i stopped at 0.1" above previous marked place. Where is this DIY 105 service? I could not find it.Thanks again.