Long story short, I tried to flush my tranny today and couldn't crack the drain bolt. Any suggestions on how to crack the bolt? I already tried asking someone stronger than I am.

 

Hi Ho: It's always a question of what tool you're using. Since a 3/8 socket extension is what fits, why don't you try a short 3/8 impact extension with an adapter for your 1/2 inch impact wrench. My old dad always told me that "get a bigger hammer" is ok, but for bolts an impact is always better than a longer breaker bar.

 

I was using an Autocraft 3/8 ratchet, Any alternatives to buying an impact wrench?

 

Was the engine Hot or cold ? Must be hot.
This is what worked for me, I kicked the ratchet with my foot a few times.
Just make sure you're using good tools.

 

My engine was cool when I tried. I'll try again tomorrow when it's hot

 

work smarter not harder
spray some wd or similar product on threads and let sit overnight if possible, a few minutes works but more time is better- respray before working on it

Use a BREAKER BAR, a ratchet cant stand the stress on small teeth of its gear system!
a breaker bar has a 3/8 socket end that only flips 180 degrees at end of tool = strong and made to be punished and stressed
Then you can slip a larger diameter and longer metal pipe over the breaker bar and leverage it from 3 feet away, a push with your foot to the bar etc
sometimes applying pressure tap, as if slightly tightening the stuck plug or bolt- will break the crud bond that has formed
then it loosens right up

Important, you will probably have to break the filler hole bolt open too, breaker bar and socket will help there ,,prespray with wd
do that first, before draining
yes you can refill thru small diameter dipstick tube but much slower than actual filler hole

 

confirm you are using Honda DW-1 atf? not some acura compatible stuff

the spec torque on the drain plug is 29 foot pounds, same as the engine oil drain plug

 

+1 on the extension and WD-40 or PB blaster. I also kicked my wrench when I did it the first time, the bolt was super stuck.


An extendable ratchet will work wonders and great to use for the rest of the car,

 

BUT that has the same issue of putting way too much stress of the gear system the ratchet uses, exceed its limits-bust the gear and you trash the tool, and may throw your knee out in a big way for good measure!

a small investment in the proper tool- a breaker bar = for breaking things loose, is the way to go
You will use it over and over

 

^^^ Yeah, agree on using the proper tool for the job......but, when folks have a lifetime warranty on their tools, they tend to abuse them from time to time.....ya know !!!

 

oh I know about busting cheap tools when applying way too much load on them
how do you think I know you can blow out a knee when pushing with leg and that gear breaks,,,, proper tools were purchased soon after the cast was removed

everyone in America knows about HFT= Harbor Freight Tools right? they are everywhere, decent enough tools and budget prices, for basic socket sets, prybars and a breaker bar they are fine www.harborfreight.com

 

There is a easier way to brake the drain and fill bolts loose
Your have to tighten the bolts with one fast movement
That will crush the crush washers more and the try to loosen the bolt . It work
The bolt should only move about a 1/4 of turn when tightening it before loosening it