Ok, I've read through many posts with related titles and haven't found my specific symptom/issue.

Background: 2003 TL-S w/ nav, 252,000 miles. The transmission was originally part of the "failed" class and was replaced at 85,000. I bought the car in October 2010 with 232,000 miles from a close friend who bought it with 18,000. I didn't know the TL ran on premium and after running a couple of tanks of 87 Octane through it the "check engine light" came on and I pulled (and cleared) some engine misfire codes. My friend told me it runs on 91+ and the only time(s) since then the "check engine light" has come on is with the "caution triangle" and "vsa". Each time it’s been unrelated to “wheel or tire slip”.

Over the last few months I've randomly had the "caution triangle -flashing", "vsa", and "check engine light" come on after initial start-up while the engine is cold, but only when ambient is under 60F. It's happened within seconds after engaging it in reverse; to almost 30 seconds after car is moving in drive (regardless if it originally was in reverse and then to drive or just engaged in drive). It doesn't seem to make a difference if I touch the gas or not after engaging the transmission. I've coasted from a stop and it's gone on after a few feet in reverse or drive, up to a few hundreds yards of coasting in drive.

If I do stop, turn off the engine, wait about 10-15 seconds and turn it on again, the triangle and vsa sometimes shut off (check engine light always stays on). If I don't immediately stop and turn the engine off it'll stay on until I do stop and re-start. If the engine is at normal operating temperature when I do re-start the triangle and vsa don't come back on.

Codes: Eventually (days later), the check engine light will turn off regardless if I retrieve the codes. Last week was the most recent time all three lights came on and I pulled the codes. There were eight of them. I used an "Innova 3100e -Can OBD2" to pull the codes. In the order they were logged/read: P0302, P0301, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0300, and P1399. I know the first six are specific cylinder misfire codes and the 300 is a random misfire. I don't know what the P1399 is. These could be all related to the last time the lights came on, but I doubt it. Some of the additional data pulled listed the vehicle speed at 32 mph, and the rpm’s at 3429. These values don’t correlate with when the lights came on most recently.

Any suggestions?...

 

1 bad coil is messing with you, giving false multi cyl misfire codes

How old are the plugs?,,the correct NGK plugs are ~8 dollars each
and while the book says you can go 105kmiles on them, most find improved running with new plugs every 60-70kmiles

Seafoam is awesome for cleaning the entire engine system

 

01tl4tl -Thanks for the reply. Plugs -replaced them with NGK-2477 Iridium's at 241,000 and they were done before that at 180,000. Right before changing them at 241k; I followed the DIY Throttle body Seafoam vacuum procedure and seafoam in the tank. After an additional tank of gas through the system I changed the plugs. I was thinking about doing Seafoam again, but it's only been 13,000 miles since last time. In general, the engine seems to run like one with low miles -no hesitation, missing, knocking, hissing...nothing, and there's plenty of power.

By coil, do you mean one of the boots for the plugs? If so, would a faulty one give a misfire code for a different cylinder? If it did -would it be because of some sort of incomplete combustion? Would a bad coil trip the Caution and VSA lights? I thought those were traction related items/lights. I'm just trying to better understand my vehicle, is all. Also, can they be tested, or do I need to replace all of them?

Any response (as always) is greatly appreciated.

 

each spark plug has its own coil--you can only see the top of it
its common for your codes to indicate 1 failing coil and say its several along with false lights and codes
The alert lights system is designed to get your attention--which it did!!

purchase 1 new coil for 50$ install on first cylinder the ecu codes suspect
reset the ecu by removing the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash
insert after 1 minute- it forces a master reset and system self test
So it will know if the coil is in the right place
If not better move new coil to next suspect location and repeat- ecu MUST be reset each time!!

or you can pull the power lead to one coil at a time watching for rpm drop\when you get to the bad one the rpm wont change = replace that coil

Seafoam: 1 can to just under full tank every 6 months will prevent a lot of problems,
and every year/15kMiles do a `cleaning dose` seafoam treatment

 

NO reason to buy all new coils,,most likely its just 1 failing

you can move the coils to different cylinders- reset ecu
see if the code follows a specific coil...

cyl numbers rear pass to driver 123 front pass to driver 456

 

01tl4tl -Again, thanks for the suggestions/advise. Because it seems to be an intermittent issue, my best option is going to be pulling the lead on each one and look for changes in the rpm's. Also, my tl-s has the nav, so I'm not sure there's a clock fuse. In the case of having navigation, is there a different fuse to pull?

Would the order in which the codes can up indicate which one is most suspect? In my initial post I listed the codes in the order that the handheld read them. P0302 -#2 cylinder was the first one. Based on what you said, I'll start with that one.

Additionally, when I pulled the codes the last one that registered was P1399. Do you know what that one is?

 

google will tell you scan code meanings,, but codes are clues--not a diagnosis

the order the codes appeared,,well we do suggest starting with the first one listed.
the ecu isnt sure whats wrong so it gives several `suggestions`

the rpm drop may be very slight- have helper monitor tach inside car while you remove power lead

look in your passenger side-end of dash-fusebox
if there is a fuse marked CLOCK you are good to pull that
--iirc its fuse #12 or 13 on most TL's

alternate method is remove battery neg cable, but have your radio security code on hand as radio will need that for sure,,
which brings us back to why we suggest clock fuse,,many dont know their code!

 

I have the same issue has yours. My in 2003 TL S . is your issues is resloved

 

Welcome Inavinkumar !!!
Chances are that ya have a bad coil causing a misfire.
Try checking the "DIY" sticky or search previous threads on the subject for more info.

 

Hey guys I had the same problem with my 2001 Acura cl s for about a week it was bogging bad. I went to advances auto and used there scanner because I had sold mine previously ( dummy) well I had all cylinders misfiring besides number 5 and a speed control code. I put all new plugs in and by the look of it that was the issue. Of course it wasnt so I bought a coil pack and on the last one I tried...purrrrr all issues were gone. Pretty sure that was the issue for you as well.

 

Hi,
I need to go to advance auto parts stores to lend the scanner. Tomorrow I will check my code
I have Acura 203 TL - S it has three cylinders back side of engine. Do you have any Video or instruction steps
How to remove the backside coil & spark plug

Thanks
Navin

 

in the main list of threads- 3rd or 4th thing down the list is OFFICIAL GEN2 DIY LIST
click that and it list 2 threads- those contain links to every job we know how to do!

tip for rear, a 3 and 6 inch extension for ratchet, and socket with rubber grabber inside- made for spark plugs = helps removal and install
start the plug as described below, then you lower the socket and one extension down the tube- then attach the rest,
pass side has a pocket for the back of your hand in firewall !

use a piece of vac tubing slipped over top of new spark plug to lower it down and start threads with fingertip feel for them going in right
then tighten with tool
Tip use a small amount of plug thread anti seize to aid install and future removal
Don't get any near the tip!!

 

multi cyl misfire codes are often 1 coil, usually 1 of the ones giving a code!
test each one by removing power to coil and watch for slight rpm drop
no change = the bad coil

rear coils and plugs remove same as the fronts, practice on a front

 

Acura-Junkie & 01tl4tl Thanks for immediate reply. Sorry for not sending my response for your reply.

Now I am going to "Amco" to get the correct code. I will reply when I got my code

Once Again Thanks for your help

Thanks
NAvin

 

Thanks for immediate reply. Sorry for not sending my response for your reply.

Now I am going to "Amco" to get the correct code. I will reply when I got my code

Once Again Thanks for your help

Thanks
NAvin

 

stay away from there! they want to sell you a transmission!!! and may do things on a test drive to hasten that~

any big name auto parts store in your area should do a code scan/read for free
takes a minute of their day to plug in behind shifter and get codes- then look them up on the internet
NOTE codes are clues - not a diagnosis by themselves

 

Hi 01tl4tl,

I got the P1457 Code and DTC code comes up 45-1 and 84-1.

To fix the EVAP ( 1457) I am planning to replace my Canister SET ( 17011-S84-A00) and VALVE, CANISTER VENT SHUT ( 17310-S84-L31)

This suggested by this thread

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...cement-729920/

I need your recommendation on this

1) If I relapse Canter Set & Canister Vent Shut Value is the P1457 will go
2) Still I am planning to replace the spark plug

Thanks
Navin

 

Hi 01tl4tl,

I got the P1457 Code and DTC code comes up 45-1 and 84-1.

I had replaced by full CAP still the check engine and other lights are on

To fix the EVAP ( 1457) I am planning to replace my Canister SET ( 17011-S84-A00) and VALVE, CANISTER VENT SHUT ( 17310-S84-L31)

This suggested by this thread

DIY: EVAP Canister & Shut Valve Replacement

I need your recommendation on this

1) If I relapse Canter Set & Canister Vent Shut Value is the P1457 will go
2) Still I am planning to replace the spark plug

Thanks
Navin

 

I have not heard of any need for canister replacement based on code- codes are often clues not diagnosis in themselves
Did you ever replace the spark plugs with the correct 8$ each NGK?

what exactly is the car doing

after parts were replaced did you reset the ECU = clear the codes by removing the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash for 1 minute then reinsert,
Will be a kick panel by passenger feet that has fuses, if not on end of dash itself (differs by year)
Otherwise the old codes stay in the system!!

 

Hi 01tl4tl,

I have two issues my Car ACrua 2003 TL Type S

1) Check engine light on

I have my check engine light on and ran a scan tool that reported code P1457 Leak in EVAP system. I did the web search it recommended to change the Canister SET ( 17011-S84-A00) and VALVE, CANISTER VENT SHUT ( 17310-S84-L31)

2) I have Triangle & VSA Light on.

For that I got the DTC Code as 45-1 and 84-1.

I need your recommendation on the above issue.

Reg. Spark plug replacement

I bought this car 2012 So far I drove 32 K miles. I have not change the spark plug. I am planning to change this week end.

Thanks
Navin

 

Hi 01tl4tl,

I have two issues my Car ACrua 2003 TL Type S

1) Check engine light on

I have my check engine light on and ran a scan tool that reported code P1457 Leak in EVAP system. I did the web search it recommended to change the Canister SET ( 17011-S84-A00) and VALVE, CANISTER VENT SHUT ( 17310-S84-L31)

2) I have Triangle & VSA Light on.

For that I got the DTC Code as 45-1 and 84-1.

I need your recommendation on the above issue.

Reg. Spark plug replacement

I bought this car 2012 So far I drove 32 K miles. I have not change the spark plug. I am planning to change this week end.

Thanks
Navin

 

first thing is stop searching web for info and go here directly!! save you lots of headaches and wasted time
As is often said - Codes Are CLUES not a diagnosis in themselves

what exactly is the car doing? when did light come on? Do anything to car for repairs or driving incidents before it came on?
look in our diy section, it has a list of all codes and meanings

that evap canister valve often makes noises and is of no consequence
Look up threads on here for evap canister for more info

 

do the ECU reset via clock fuse method an drive, see if codes come back

Note weak battery or bad cables- bad grounds (there are several ground wires from frame to engine and trans) send poor signals to computer
Garbage in = garbage out