Finally there is a fixed for our rotors. This has been an issue that seem like, it was never going to be address by acura, but they did.

They finally fixed the issue by adding a cooling vents(2004) allowing the rotors to cool down faster.

I thought of doing this before the release of the 2004 TL, but I wasn't sure if it would work and/or create more noise.

After I was working on my friend's 1991 318i BMW, I saw the 2 cooling passages for the front brakes, then I realize that they have been doing this for years and it came to my mind that I have never heard of BMW brakes warping.....no wonder.

So I decided to do it myself since I have tried just about everything possible except for brembos....nothing has worked until now.

BTW I have 2-piston calipers with SS brake lines, organic pads and these are my 5th pair of rotors including stocks. I have had 2 different kinds of semi-metalic pads too. Plus a different array of crossdrilled and slotted totors.

Back to the topic, this is a very easy mod, but it might require removing the bumper for a clean installation. I have extremely tested this setup and "so far I have very good feedback" inlcluding less fade and better stoping power. Best upgrade I have done to my brakes. How did I tested it? I put it to the test in the autobahn (germnay) since the upgrade. From 140+ mph to less than 30 mph and holding the brakes for long periods of time to create heat, with less effort. I have no signs of warping and for the first time, my rotors were cool to touch after I put it on the lift at the shop.

I will post pictures of the upgrade (fix) as soon as I get a chance and explain what to do.

Note "you will have to make permanent modifications to the car"

 

Can't wait to see the instructions.

 

cool! ive thought about doing that before, just never did. now i think im gong to have to

 

Thanks for the information. As someone who suffered from warped rotors on my 2002 TL, this is great info. (It's also nice to know that on my new TL it may be less of a problem, but we'll see about this time next year when I've got 20k miles.)

 

I think it's more than just cooling the rotors, BMWs, Audis and Volvos use rotors with different metal compositions and they don't rust. If we can find the source of those rotors, (and pads) then adding the cooling fix, the problem of the brakes could finally be resolved.

 

.. well anything to help the rotor problem with our cars is in my books. Please post DIY a.s.a.p. Thanks Bitium...you da' man

P.S. Looks like Bitium beat you to it Kris for posting it first. hehe :p :p

 

Here is the picture from the 04 TL.....Our TL's is a little different.

I just thought about the 02 and above and it might be a little different if not possible, because of the different bumper. I'll look into it.

 

i've been driving with warped rotors, forever!...

i would really like to see the change..

and i know it's going to mean cutting and the lower facia in front of the wheels.

this should be interesting

 

hahaha...my old 92 325i had that too. i was wonder y japanese donesn't have it.but my gf 03 C320 doesn't have a vents like that..her rotors doesn't warped at all.

 

Well it also depends on your driving style....I don't remember my parents ever warping rootrs even pass 100k miles. so go figure.

I warped brakes on my 98 eclipse at 25k and my TL 7 times. I also warped my 91 nissan primera. I know the way I drive and brake....I'm a warping maniac.

 

well I personally am not one of those guys who does these mods myself, so I'll have to find a guy in the GTA who has been successful in doing this mod, and then will have to have them do it for me...maybe a little $$$ as an incentive

 

Yea if anyone has any suggestions or more detailed instructions on how to do this thatd be great...or i was thinking of maybe taking it to a body shop or installation shop and maybe they could do the mod themselves...but those frucks charge alot for a little =þ any advice?

 

Any development on the actual pics of the "upgrade" and not the pic of the 2004 TL (which doens't do us any good)... and may be some explaination/instructions? Thx.

 

After I was working on my friend's 1991 318i BMW, I saw the 2 cooling passages for the front brakes, then I realize that they have been doing this for years and it came to my mind that I have never heard of BMW brakes warping.....no wonder.


This is a myth.

I have owned BMWs from 325is to 750iL and they have a warping problem just like Acuras and it has to do with how you use your brakes. If you drive aggresively this will happen more so.
The reason I stopped buying BMWs was that I found they were very expensive to maintain and needed servicing more often than Acura or any other japanese make.
Atleast from Acura you are getting lot more for your dollar than BMW.
Just my 2 cents worth.

 

That duct looks like its supposed to work at a certain ride height. Would the duct work as well if the car was lowered?

 

Mine is lower, but I think it would work at any height.

 

Feel free to try. It does cool down the rotors.

 

Here are some pictures. Here is a good thread on how to cut fog holes and add mesh . The rest is just open a hole on the fender linner as it seems on the picutre. This will allow the air to passthrough to the rotors and calipers. is the same for both sides.

Good luck!!!!

 

The "cut" allowing air to flow to the rotor appears to be directing directly at the TIRE rather than the rotor...unless you are doing the turn (ei. tires swirl to one side), then air is directed at the rotor. Am I wrong or something because from the pics, it appears so.
If this is the case, why didn't you make the cut of the inner fender (plastic) directly perpendicular to the rotor/caliper. Air travels to the back of the fender's wheel (closed up as stock) will be forced back and exited through the perpendicular openning. You can also aid this by getting some 4" aluminum dryer hose directing the whole current of incoming air to exit directly through the cut fender wall...just a suggestion.

 

also, i think if you make the cut perpendicular to the rotor (inside), it will be less visible (aesthetic) and more functional (with hose) than if the openning is pointing directly at the tire as such.

 

if you look at teh 04 TL, the opening also hits the tire and not the rotor. But i guess that fact that you have air flowing in the tire well will create a current of air through the rotors.

I was thinking about the same as you about puting it perpendicular, but i do'nt think there will be enough space. An every car, the rotors and calipers are most likely be inside the wheel.

Either way it won't hurt to do it, i'm probably going to do something like this during christmas break. But going to put some metal mesh around the opening.

Some one should come up with a CO2 rotor cooled spray system....heheeh

 

My rotors are warped and I don't know if the dealer will replace them under warranty because I have 40000 miles on the car. I do know a little about brakes as I had three SHOs before the TL-S and I replaced the often warped rotors at least once every two years.

I this a very difficult job? Are any special tools needed and are there information resouce available for this procedure.

 

If you have replaced rotors before...the TL/TLS is quite similar. The rotor itself is held by a single (or two) Philip screw once you take the caliper off.

 

Not difficult if you can get the screws on bolts of. The 2 philp screws can be taken off with an impact driver. The bolts on the front caliper are very tight, i think only an air gun can remove them.

I replace my rear brakes, but had to take the front out to the shop b/c i couldn't get the bolts off.

If you want DIY info, check out www.austin519.com

 

i guess this would be a problem if i have foglights

 

Yes. Sorry

 

How about this idea?

 

That is cool, but too much work. Plus the duct will break apart in a short time, since it will be flexing every time you turn and/or the suspension goes up or down.

 

Is there room for something like that? Because if i'm gonna do it, i want to do it right the first time. It looks like it gonna work very well

 

bitium..

i like the idea of opening the ducts for airflow.
i have the mesh.

but my question is this..


won't my intake suck in water onthe driver side...if i open the front duct.

 

Water is still gonna get in even if you don't have the duct

It looks like honda does have OEM cooling ducts, but not for us.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6755

 

What rotor problem? I've no rotor problem(s)!

 

u must be new, billmat.....

either that or you don't own an acura Tl...lol!...

 

You say you have a mesh...is that only for the front bumper and not the fog light ducts?

If the fog light openings already have mesh, then there is no difference.....opening the hole on the inner linner of the fender will not be any worse. I have cold air, but I don't have the filter down there, just the opening like Cold Air Box, but a little higher.

Good question

 

HAHAHA... or he drives like my grandma.

Joe, if you been around long or reading the STICKY post, we have a bad rotor problem.

 

not me...billmat...
he is the one with no problems..

i'm jealous..

i've been driving around with warped rotors forever....

soon to get aftermarket...

 

if water accumulates in the duct, will it eventually be splashing on an extremely hot rotor?
peter.

 

btw, just my 2 cents here but since I replaced the stock rotors and pads with Brembo blanks and Hawk Performance Pads (total price wth shipping $208 from tirerack.com) I've had good luck. I've made it so far twice as long as I ever did with the stock setup, which was replaced once by the dealer under warranty. After the 2nd time, I stopped bothering with the dealer. I dont have the time to go drop the car off, they wouldnt give me a loaner for a 'non-critical' repair, and so it wasnt worth the hassle every 12k miles. I haven't changed my driving habits, just the parts, so it had to be the OEM stuff that was the problem.

I am skeptical of that pipe and vent idea. Although the metal forming and welding did come out looking first-rate, especially those two mounting tabs. Incidentally, they make articulated solid metal dryer hose, which would seem a better choice than the junky plastic film stretched over a coiled wire style. Not sure why you didnt use that since the rest of the job was so well thought out...

 

Good point, maybe thats why the 04 is pointing at the tire instead..just to get some air flow in the wheel well is probably a lot better than nothing.

 

The air duct design is acutally stolen from actually race car techniques. I've researched it on line, a compay does them for BMW and it looks alot better then the ones above. I jumped onto the Rotora group buy 4 corners with Axxis Ultimates for 435. i have no doubt that these will last longer, but i want assurance that i would not have to goto this trouble again if my rotors get warped again.

I'm very confident that the vent will work. THe tubing isn't plastic, it's made from industrial silicon. I wouldn't use metal, that thing will and break/crack very fast, they are not made to flex. the silicon hose is about $70 for 10 feet. so not really cheap.

Those welds would hold up. Even if you get into an accident, they will survive. They are bolted on to the caliper bracket.

About the water, You may get some water vapor, even if it rains, I highly doubt that they a significant ammount of water will collect in the duct. Unless you drive your car though a flood. But you have to think about, when it rains, your rotors are already gonna get wet, and if you drive through several inchs of water, your rotors are toast.