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Old May 21, 2011 | 09:14 PM
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Don't hate

Need help from someone slightly less retarded than me.

I was changing my spark plugs today. Everything was going well, until I put the spark plug into the spark plug hole. I hand tightened it, then 1/4 turn. Maybe less (just made it snug).

The problem is removing the spark plug socket. When I remove my ratchet with the extension, the spark plug socket stays in the spark plug hole. It has some rubber layer inside to make it stick to the spark plug. The problem is that I can't get the socket out, as the extension just comes off instead.

What do? Also, nobody laugh at me.


Edit: Also when I had originally put the new plug inside, I eventually removed it because I couldn't get the socket out without the plug. The new plug became instantly dirty just from being in there for like 2 minutes with the engine OFF. Can I pour a little SeaFoam down the spark plug hole?

Last edited by Karanx7; May 21, 2011 at 09:18 PM.
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Old May 21, 2011 | 09:15 PM
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Also, I found out that I had been running cheapo Autolite plugs for the last 70k. Thanks dad!

I got the correct NGK Irids this time.
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Old May 21, 2011 | 09:27 PM
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you're just gonna have to wiggle the socket off.
you're right, that the padding inside the socket is used to hold the plug. play with it for a little bit, wiggling.
might want to try a new extension, as it seems like its coming off where it makes the connection...
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Old May 21, 2011 | 10:27 PM
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newb...
Superglue rubber inside of socket
Use electrical tape on the socket connections, so u can pull the bitch out...
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Old May 21, 2011 | 10:34 PM
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Try removing it with some needle nose pliers. Then get a long reach plug socket & you won't have the issue again.

Used anti seize on threads of new plugs?
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Old May 21, 2011 | 10:36 PM
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keep rotating the extension position --there is a dimple in the socket and a bump dot on the extension- fit those together and it will stay on
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Old May 21, 2011 | 10:37 PM
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tip: a length of vac tube slipped over top of plug- lowers it in and allows
finger- sensative starting of threads
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Old May 21, 2011 | 11:38 PM
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Spark plug socket with magnet has never failed me.

Tape socket to extension.

Oh and don't pour seafoam into the chamber. Plug is going to get dirty sooner or later. Seafoam the right way.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 12:08 AM
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I actually use the rubber to get the old sockets out...
Then I remove it from the socket to put the new ones in...or I just push the tip of the plug into the rubber to it is barely holding and just put it in and hand tighten to get the threads going. Then pull the socket out and remove rubber to finish off.

Also, if it's stuck in there...loosen the spark plug and take the whole thing out to try the above.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 12:34 AM
  #10  
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You have to:

First put the Rubber inside the Socket to REMOVE Spark Plug
Then:
Remove the Rubber inside the Socket with a Flat Screwdriver to INSTALL Spark Plug

Just like that is Quite Easy! That rubber thingy isnt glued to the socket is made so you can remove it with a Screwdriver, I have the same type of Spark Plug Socket used more than once on the TL.

Last edited by Skirmich; May 22, 2011 at 12:37 AM.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by totaledTL
Try removing it with some needle nose pliers. Then get a long reach plug socket & you won't have the issue again.

Used anti seize on threads of new plugs?
Yea, anti seize is a go. Thanks.
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
keep rotating the extension position --there is a dimple in the socket and a bump dot on the extension- fit those together and it will stay on
It's probably a cheaper spark plug socket, as it doesn't have that dimple. The extension has it though, but nothing for it to grab onto.
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
tip: a length of vac tube slipped over top of plug- lowers it in and allows
finger- sensative starting of threads
Yea, I saw that in a couple vids. I just hand tightened it with the extensions, minus the ratchet. Does that run the risk of cross threading?
Originally Posted by rockstar143
I actually use the rubber to get the old sockets out...
Then I remove it from the socket to put the new ones in...or I just push the tip of the plug into the rubber to it is barely holding and just put it in and hand tighten to get the threads going. Then pull the socket out and remove rubber to finish off.

Also, if it's stuck in there...loosen the spark plug and take the whole thing out to try the above.
Originally Posted by Skirmich
You have to:

First put the Rubber inside the Socket to REMOVE Spark Plug
Then:
Remove the Rubber inside the Socket with a Flat Screwdriver to INSTALL Spark Plug

Just like that is Quite Easy! That rubber thingy isnt glued to the socket is made so you can remove it with a Screwdriver, I have the same type of Spark Plug Socket used more than once on the TL.
Yup! The rubber thing came out pretty easily. I didn't think of that, duhhhh.

Thanks for all the help guys!
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Old May 22, 2011 | 08:07 AM
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Sorry guys, one more question. I was watching some videos of spark plug changes, and I came upon a question.

As I stated before, there seems to be a little bid of crud in the spark plug well. Is it OK to use a little compressed air to blow it away? Since it's pointing down, it would probably go into the combustion chamber. It's a really small amount of crud, but I know that a small amount can still hurt.

Should I use a can of compressed air to remove the crud, or just leave it?
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Old May 22, 2011 | 09:13 AM
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shop vac - suck it out, don't blow it in.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 09:17 AM
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Get a better socket set
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Old May 22, 2011 | 09:48 AM
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I welded a extension onto mine Never have to worry about it coming off. If you remove the rubber to get the plug in, you have to be careful that the plug doesnt just fall into the hole. You can damage the plug and change the gap on it
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Old May 22, 2011 | 11:20 AM
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bringing us back to: using vac tubing to lower and with fingertip feeling--install new plugs

NEVER pour seafoam into the cylinder!!!
Never blow anything into the open plug hole!!

DO- with spark plug in place- use compressed air to remove loose crud around opening
before plug change
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Old May 22, 2011 | 04:34 PM
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Put plug back in a few threads then vac. out any debris.
If you try one of the long reach sockets you won't go back. Bonus: it will be virtually self aligning to start the new plug w/out x-threading.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 06:51 PM
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You should use compressed air BEFORE you pull the plugs
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Old May 22, 2011 | 07:06 PM
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Yea, I'll do that to loosen it up. I don't really have a shop vac to get it out, but I'll do what I can with my house vac. I just don't understand how there's any crud on the other side of the spark plug well. It should be sealed. Maybe the last guy to change it didn't pay attention.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 09:09 PM
  #20  
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it gets in there despite any seal--thats just the nature of cars~

in my opinion: its worth 25$ for a harbor freight 5 gal air tank
fill it at gas station or to max pressure at truck stops
use to adjust tires, blow away debris from vents or spark plugs, dry K&N type filters after cleaning, dry things after an engine detail wash...
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Old May 22, 2011 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
You should use compressed air BEFORE you pull the plugs
Yep- was too late in his case though.
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