I was at autozone today just looking around in my spare time and an employee said if I was interested in fuel treatment and I had never heard of it so he than went on to tell me that it cleaned out my engine of all the 'gunk' and would help my car out a lot. He said next time when I filled up with gas, to pour a single whole bottle in the gas tank of this stuff and I was wondering if it works or should I return it?

 

 

http://www.mocproducts.com/PreviewInfo.aspx?i=45&m=3
the owner (certified honda and subaru master technician) of a shop i interned for uses MOC fuel injector cleaner. he told me to use it once a year, and also clean out the tb and im, he uses this: http://www.mocproducts.com/PreviewInfo.aspx?i=152&m=3

maybe he has a biased opinion about brands, but he really knows his shit, so i trust him.

 

lucas is decent stuff - use 1 bottle to half a tank
or return it and get stuff that really works good- seafoam or redline SI-1
both are awesome at 1 to half tank
repeat in a month to finish off the job

ck the seafoam diy for why we do this type of cleaning inside the engine, fuel injectors etc

 

its on sale!!!
possibly? with commission or sales goals behind the employee desire to sell it- they tried me today too-
I taught the cashier about other products they sell that are better for the money

 

Ha...no offense, but if I worked at Autozone I'd probably be like: ..."just doing ma job! I could care less what's better!"

 

A whole can of seafoam to a half tank??

 

yes 2 ounces of seafoam per gallon of fuel is the `cleaning strength`

 

I just bought two cans of Seafoam and a case of 5-30 Mobil.

I'm especially excited about running half a can through a vacuum port.
From there it cleans the throttle body? And what else?

Then, one late night, on the way home, I'll pull over and dump the other half into my crank case, drive my 2 hour route hoe, and do a late night oil change upon return.

Lastly, a full can into the fuel tank. Any day now, on that one. I want to wait until I have a clear 250 mile drive-time day ahead of me.

 

Don't forget the filter.

 

Yes that stuff works.

I use it every other fill up.

 

sperry and all

Its a 16oz can seafoam to HALF tank, actually just a tick under half so there is 8 gallons in the tank (17.3 max)
that gives a 2 oz per gal of fuel= cleaning strength- thats what you want to get the most for your money

the master vac port does NOT get the TB plate- you must remove the TB to airbox hose and spray into TB from the air filter box side-
get both sides of air plate by opening throttle- wipe up excess before engine start and shoot more in when running

Most of the seafoam goes into the port with nipple at TB connection to manifold= please see diy pics

about 1/2 can is good- some like to keep going to 3/4 can and engine will be laboring as mix of gas going in is diluted with seafoam in the plenums.
When it barely runs you are done- wait 10 minutes- secure clamp on vac line and do start-stabilize-slow drive then 4000 rpm when able- 10 minutes of that will clean it all out

also add some seafoam- hold rpm at 2000 and keep adding sip sip sip
SMOKE will be visable~
then return to just above idle and sip sip sip

oil= 6 ounces seafoam to 5 qts oil- do your drive and change while still warm
Expect very black oil and clean internal passageways!
vtec needs its sliders and parts operated during that drive to get all that desludged- a real problem most dont think about
hit 5000 a few times in a row to move fluid and parts

 

from the manifold master vac port: you are cleaning the back and edges of the intake valves, the piston tops, and partial cleaning of plenums and intake runners.
also cleans the cat on the way out !

in the gas: it cleans the fuel lines and injectors- restores good spray pattern to them- very important- then proceeds to assist/continue cleaning on back of valves, pistons, cat

noobs repeat in a month 1500-2000 miles then good for a year/15
ok to throw a can in 3/4 full gas tank every 5000-7500 if you want for extra midyear cleaning...with oil change...before a trip etc

 

in the oil it also cleans rings/recess in piston for rings (so they move freely again like new) rod bearing oil gallies, oil passages everywhere, sludge on pickup screen, and the PCV system which sends vapors thru the metal tube from valve cover to the intake tube to TB

if you think your engine may be dirty, dipstick already very dirty, or first time doing the 150 mile method-
its cheap insurance to install a new filter of any brand before the drive
IF your old filter is nearly full of crud now- it will be full in a few minutes,,then open the bypass switch- allowing extra crudded oil to continue thru the engine without filtering
Not the plan when removing crud stuff from the system
3 bucks is cheap peace of mind in my opine

I turn the wheel and reach in from the passenger side inner fender to get filter for this- loosen filter slightly- slide a big ziplock bag around it so filter will be at bottem of bag- turn and remove- no spill!!
zip bag closed and add to hazmat disposal pile

 

seafoam works great

 

You mean I can swap filters without draining the oil?

 

sure - no sweat as long as the engine is not running~
No oil pressure when off- just spin filter and release
Its never sprayed oil at you during oil filter change before did it?

You WILL need to top off the oil - cant prefill the filter 100% before install- it will drip down your arm if you try (guess how I know...)

guys who run 15kmile oil interval will change the filter at 7500, reach in and done

 

One would, after adding to the oil, and doing the carbon burn, swap in a new filter,
do the long drive, and then do an oil change with fresh, quality filter?

I've not changed oil in ten years, but I seem to remember a whole lot coming out of the engine when the filter is removed.

One can run synthetic on a 15K interval, changing the filter only twice?

I have read of guys with big diesel pickup trucks, keeping the same oil for 200K miles,
only swapping filters regularly, and sending the oil in to be tested. This was years ago, however.

 

01tl4tl is saying to throw in a cheap filter first, add seafoam to oil, run it, then swap the oil & filter. This is because your existing filter may already be at its limits so that when the seafoam loosens stuff up, it puts that old filter at max "junk" capacity, clogging it in a short amount of time. Once the filter is clogged, the bypass valve opens and pretty much no filtering is done (as to not starve the engine of oil).

Some oil will come out when swapping filter without a full oil change. So just loosen the filter with a bag over it, let that initial oil drip, and then once it's done, do the rest.

 

Got it! So, keep the Acura filters for a fresh oil change [I'm guessing the OEM filters are decent] and hit pep Boys for a couple swap-in, swap-out filters to grab the excessive junk that will be ejected during a Seafoam treatment.

 

oe filters are not very good- what they can buy in bulk cheap~

only 1 new filter required for the pre long drive, but you are ok to do a cleaning at each oil change
1.5 oz per qt oil is approx 8 oz for the tl

our megamod runs 15 between changes with 1 filter at 75, and oil analysis from blackstone labs to keep an eye on everything- the report also tells how much longer oil can be used- its the additive package that wears out before oil dies

for the 35 bucks for testing, I can do a change at 75 and not worry
If you drive extreme high annual miles -50k - then long interval would be helpful

diesel trucks run a different oil than cars and can go extreme distance- with filter change and analysis

I just ran foam in the motorcycle engine/trans- rode 200 miles, wow was the oil black!
going to cut filter open and examine for sludge

no prob removing old filter with engine off and cool- the ziplock is helpful
When you see where the filter is it will make more sense

 

when a filter becomes full- the bypass valve will open- allowing the engine oil to bypass the filter--NO filtering is going on when that occurs

While its not likely to plug a TL filter- its always possible, so 1st time better to be safe

Next time, with greatly reduced sludge- you can drive 30 minutes with foam on the old filter then change everything

 

Threw on a spare OEM filter, and this morning, did 6 ozs Seafoam into the crankcase.
A spirited drive ensued, mostly 2nd gear @ 4000+rpm.

No smoke, or at least, none I saw. I expected billowing clouds, like a James Bond smoke screen, and I drove a nice little course. Over 20 minutes after the indicator showed normal coolant temp. I'm wondering if the car is relatively clean, or maybe the engine has to be even more rippin' hot for Seafoam to work? The oil looked a little dirtier than when I started.

Fresh oil and filter, and now the car starts immediately up, and purrs.
I also did a fourth 3 quart drain/fill, and the transmission oil is starting to look human again.

 

oh sperry...do we need to come show you how to do this?
so close but not getting the correct combination of rpm and location

Seafoam in the crankcase cleans the oil passages and lower rings, pcv system,
BUT has nothing to do with the manifold vac which is the method that makes smoke

You cleaned the engine OILING system- which only needs 30 minutes of normal drive, or install a new filter and seafoam- drive 150-200 miles then change oil and filter

Next up for you is the gas tank method: 1 can to just under half a tank= 2 oz foam per gal fuel
Drive normal with some vtec for extra push of fuel with cleaner in it
run tank down past low light but not to empty- thats bad for fi cars

also the manifold vac- which is the preferred way to INSTANTLY clean the intake valves, piston tops and top rings/seats, and the cat even gets cleaned on the way out!

Smoke is a reaction of the oil in seafoam to the heat in the exhaust, not an indication of how much crud in system
If you want to make smoke,, to impress yourself- an approved method is get seafoam added slowly for a bit- then hold rpm at 2000 while adding more seafoam thru master vac port
In about 15 seconds you get the billowing whitish cloud to startle the neighbors~
Then return to low- just above idle - method of sip sip stabilize
The big blast will do some high pressure washing of the parts

sperry please read the diy carefully- ignore early pics-= look at last pags for correct vac port at TB (not the small vac line on fenderwell,, as really old info has)

- its at the TB connection to manifold and has a vac line the size of a little finger with a clamp you can superman squeeze open or use pliers-(suggest pliers)
only clamp like that anywhere near where you are working

All this is under the top plastic engine cover and its held on by 4-6 bolts or screws- easy remove
For you- I would get seafoam aerosol `Deep Creep` for the job- easy to control over the hose and sip sip by spraying, you can also spray thru TB internal- to clean air plate and lube pivot hinge

If using a liquid can of seafoam for vac port- never use the original can!!- put product in a clear container and use clear hose to monitor whats happening
hold tube 1 inch above fluid to create a tornado so you know its going in!
Warning:
Dip the hose into the liquid and a major backwash and engine stall will occur- its pretty ugly from what I hear- a lot of cleanup of you and the car,,,so dont do it-

 

OK, I guess I had some of the stuff backwards.

Thursday, I did a 16 oz can of Seafoam in the gas when the Getty 92 was down to a tick below half. I drove it pretty well, the light came on at 358 miles, and I continues to 418, sixty miles past the warning light. The car took exactly 15.7 gallons. My driving included some high rpm highway driving.

Yesterday, I swapped filters [made a mess], and this morning I added six ounces Seafoam to the crankcase, drove for 25 minutes, usually at higher rpm, and then did an oil change with filter.

So, what I did was waste the crankcase treatment, and should have left the Seafoam in there for 150 miles.

Fair enough. Live and learn. But I'll tell you what. The engine is starting more promptly, idling more smoothly, and accelerating way more smoothly. It has a healthy sound to it.

The bad dash lights are all replaced, and the transmission got a fourth drain/fill.

I'll go back over the DIY, and absolutely find the correct vac port at TB before doing anything foolish to the car.

 

you did alright with the crankcase- many ziners do 5 minutes at idle- which after reading seafoams tech site and calling them- I now know 30 minutes drive to 150 miles is fine
Longer better of course but anything is better than nothing

in the gas- you did a `maitenance dose`- something you would do midyear with a can in full tank, approz 1 oz per gal fuel

To do a super cleaning dose- throw a can in HALF tank- just under half tank,, so its 8 gallons, or 2 oz per gal

that and the manifold vac will make it run like new
You got good results with just the gas tank- imagine how it will run after the rest of treatment!
clean the TB air plate when doing tb- see DIY

 

Call me crazy but I don't think Seafoam application needs to be some precise, meticulous process. Get it in the system, let it do its thing, and get it out.

Basic instructions are on the site. If you just follow those, you should be fine-
http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...treatment.html

 

yes you can do a basic job and get SOME results- but for the price I want MAX results, therefor a procedure thats been proven to work extra good is my preferred way
seafoam site has good basic info method with youtube vid,
and inside the tech sections has the special methods

you can throw some in the gas and be done with it
same with oil and drive it to the oil change place- that will work

and there are some of us that like to do stuff in a precise way,,
let me have control of some small thing in my life ok !!!! lol