OK - so I just read the DIY on the valve adjustment. Seems relatively straightforward - just time consuming. The only problem is I just did the EGR clean not too long ago - had I known the procedure for the valves I would have done it then since everything was already apart. but I didn't.

So, do you guys recommend doing the valves at a certain mileage? I realize it's probably case by case, and I'm sure the car would run a little better if I did it. But if I don't drive it all that hard, an no nocking, etc, am I Ok waiting another 15K or so when I do the EGR again? I've got 101K on it now. I've already had the timing belt done- i realize that would've been a good time to do it also. What an effin noob I am. Thanks.

 

we all live and learn- thru acurazine~

Most diy'rs have found 2-3 valves loose and past spec limit
When the valves are not adjusted perfect- they dont open long enough and cause poor gas mileage and emissions

If not already done- replace the sparkplugs and do the valve adjust- its a bunch of parts to remove for access but an easy normal adjustment

For others- valve adjustment with the timing belt water pump at 105 is a good time- some of the same parts/covers are removed for that job- so it combines the jobs for less total labor and better car in the end

Gas isn't going to stay in the 2s forever- they already know we will pay 4-5 and keep driving. Do all you can to make the TL stay a ULEV vehicle

 

egr cleaning- you mean you removed the intake manifold and cleaned out the egr passages and intake runners in the manifold?

 

Yes.

Also, I've already done the plugs (at 70,000). I guess my main concern is am I risking engine damage with out of spec valves? I'm honestly willing to live with slightly lower MPGs for a year until I plan on recleaning the EGR / passages and probably replace the plugs again. But if driving another year with valves out of spec is going to damage the engine, I'll obviously do it.

 

only if they are seriously out of adjustment then they do pound on some parts-not cool
Keep it out of vtec
Acura says adjust at 100k as needed- well all cars need it by then,,, so do they mean only adjust the valves out of spec? how helpful of them!
The DANGER is a valve not seating properly or getting too much travel- spring float--contact with the pistons to valve is posible
If you hear any new ticking do it right away

If running ngk plat or irid you should get 60k miles of good service before any noticable wear and replacement time

EGR cleaning should last 75k miles between cleanings
Run some fuel cleaner and intake manifold cleaner (seafoam BG wynns etc)
that will do the most good for the car for cleaning and running, get rid of the carbon on the valves and pistons plus fuel injector cleaning
Do the TB plate as well- that gets oily residue pumped at it constantly- you could clean it every month!!

 

I have 153k on my "99TL and I have not done anything with the valves. I always get 21 - 22mpg with mixed driving and 28 or so on the highway. I guess there is no real reason to adjust them since everything seems to be good to go?

 

^ No, you should still have them checked/adjusted.

 

just do it. and if you got your timing belt done at acura, they probably did it.

i did it for the peace of mind

 

I just called the shop that did my timing belt and was quoted $350 for the valve adjustment.

2 things
- is that a good price?
- is this a possible DIY? I am pretty handly working on this car so I could probably do it if there was not a very special skill/tool that was needed.

 

read the DIY and decide
Its several hours labor but not difficult for the trained mechanic

100k miles is when it is supposed to be done-

dont expect the dealer included it with the water pump-timing belt!!!
They SHOULD offer it as an `additional`- because they also lowball prices then call you for more things---
many shops will not include the valve adjust with wp- it adds $300-400 to the job,,already pushing 1000,,,and most people say- well I dont hear anything so it must be ok right?!

 

phee: You did find a few valves out of adjustment right? loose?
how many?

 

the mechanic I talked to said most issues happen when the valve gets tight/stuck because you will not hear anything until it is too late. maybe a scare tactic but I will probably take it in soon since I need to keep this car running for 2 - 3 more years.

 

$350 for valve adjustment is great. I'd have him do it at that price. It'll take you about 6 hours your first time and you could get something wrong.

 

If you want:
1. The Best Performance: do it as early as you could
2. To do it Economy way: do it when you see signs of problem
3. To do it right: follow the manufacturer scheduled maintenance; except the known issues.

 

I did the timing belt / wp at an independent acura / honda shop. They did replace some seals, but I'm surprised they didn't offer the valves since I had almost 100K at the time and I'm sure they could use the money with the economy and all. Kinda pisses me off. I guess I'll just do it - I think I have a free Saturday in July sometime...It'll be interesting to see if I can plug in all the hoses in the right place again - I think the last time I got it right cuz I was lucky.

BTW - since there is a range for the valve specs, do you guys just go right in between the ranges or do you err on the tight or loose side? I've heard it's worse to be too tight than too loose (now where have I heard that before??)