Alright. I have to LOC. The directions are to connect a grey and a grey/black wire to the left speaker output, and connect white and white/black wire to the right speaker output. On the stock sub, it's only one speaker....do they mean to connect one side to the positive and the other side to the negative of the sub??? i'm lost...just waiting for a reply. thanks!

 

My LOC had two gray wires and two black wires, and all I did was twist a grey and black together as a set, and wrap that wire around one side of the metal prongs sticking out of the stock sub, and did the same for the other side. That might not be the best way to do it, but its worked for me and ive had it hooked up that way for about 6 months.

 

Bluedevil, thanks. Another question now.. the amp, do I have to connect the Remote Wire? I was told I didn't have to worry about the Remote Wire. Was I informed wrong? Everything is hooked up now, except for the Remote wire and my Mtx sub isn't bumping.

 

Well I thought that too at first, but my friend routed my remote wire to the fuse that is used for the turn signals since the turn signals can't be used when the car is off. I think if you hook yours up the way I did, you need the remote turn on since without it, the amp will just drain your battery.

 

Ok, how do I go about finding the fuse for the turning signal and when I do find it, how do I connect the wire to that fuse?

 

Look on the fuse panel next to the steering wheel and there should be a chart saying which fuse is which or look in the manual. I think he just wrapped it around the fuse and plugged it back in.

Question for you though, what is your avatar, looks like the different HID kelvin temps. Is the top picture stock?

 

Some amps will sense the signal from the RCA's and you don't need a remote wire...might make sure that's not the case with yours.

 

ok, i'll look at that. thanks

My picture is what it looks like at different angles of the cut off line from my s2000 hid projectors. 4300k bulb.

 

ahh yes...finally got it.. So i hooked up my Remote wire to the Ignition fuse in the fuse box. Still doesn't work. So i took another look at the wires from the LOC. What I did was took one negative from the Grey wires, and one negative from the White wires, and hooked it up to the negative end of the sub wire. Then one positive from the Grey wires and one positive from the White wires and hooked it up to the Positive end of the sub wire. Turned on the ignition and "BOOOOOM". Yesss, I got it to work.. Bump that shiet man!!

 

undo what ever you did, cause its useless!!! throw that loc out.. Remove rear seat for access to stock amp. Unplug wiring harness to stock amp. Remove stock amp (optional) and stock sub(best practice) - leave wiring harnesses in place. The wiring harness that you unplugged from your stock amp contains an orange wire - this is your remote power turn-on for your new amp, so splice into it and extend it to your new amp. Run new fused power cable from battery to your new amp. Ground new amp to body. Inside the same wiring harness to your stock amp there is a twisted pair wrapped in a puke brown shield, splice into the two wires inside the brown shield with some 22 gauge twisted pair(long enough to reach your new amp) and solder (1) RCA connector to the other end. (Polarity doesn't matter) This RCA is your mono input to your new amp. Connect new amp to new sub and have fun.

those instructions were origionally posted by brewboy some time ago.. but i used them and they worked perfect!!

 

and trust me, this way provides the clearest bass!!

 

You rock my socks.

Now to complete the threadjack, where is the biggest/most easily accessible hole to run a nice thick power wire through the firewall?

/threadjack