Today while driving, all of a sudden my car stopped responding to "Acceleration" and battery light went on. The engine kept running at 800 RPM. I pulled to the side, battery light was on. But if you press gas RPMs would not move. So I stop the car, start it again, battery light is gone, and car drives normally. WTF was that, any ideas?
Spark plugs only 1 year old, battery is less than 1 year old.

 

Ignition switch? Were any other lights on?

 

No other lights were on. It was almost as if someone disconnected accelerator pedal.

 

Weird, I had almost the same issue last night.
While driving home I was going about 65 and the engine sort of burped and the maintenance light went on - no, not the MIL. A few moments later the light went off and all seemed ok.
About a mile or so later the engine burped again (sounded like a dull whump) and the dash lights dimmed to an odd grey and then all of the gauge lights started flashing on and off with clicking relay sounds from all over. The engine was still running for a sec then seemed to shut off (no throttle response) but I still had power steering and brakes and the headlights stayed on (both my wife and i do not remember them going off).
I reached for the key and as I turned it to start everything came back to normal. When I released it it went right back to the wacko lights and no throttle response. I did this maybe 3 or 4 times (in a matter of a minute or less - maybe a quarter of a mile) and then it just started to run fine.
No lights on the dash, no codes when I got home. Currently the car is still running as if nothing ever happened. I guess it could be the ignition switch (recall unit, replaced about 8 years ago) -or an electromagnetic pulse from a solar flare!
Has this happened to anyone else?

 

a 99= I expect to see the switch replaced a few times,,
recall installed the same part!
You need a good unit from the aftermarket- local parts store
probably arced inside the switch if you take it apart

other odd electrical probs: ck batt cable condition, neg cable expecially and the extra -small ground wires from frame to engine
So what if batt 1 year old- still needs a complete system test- free at parts stores

 

Will do on the new switch. Cables, battery and alternator all tested and OK.
It was SO odd.

 

Yeah, I wish I installed an after market one...my new OEM one lasted a few months maybe.

 

If battery ground cable is bad, why would it cause acceleration cut-off? I thought our cars (and I have 2001) can run without battery on alternator only. do you know for sure that losing connectivity with the battery can cause acceleration cut-off? When my battery died, I jump started by car and drove with the dead battery, no light were on. So I dont think it makes sense.

 

Bad grounds or low voltage can cause all kinds of strange issues. Sure it may run well sometimes. I had a bad battery on my Mazda, the car would run fine but die when I put the headlights on.

 

Belt?

 

Threw in a new switch as it was indeed the problem. Found if I pressed down on the key at just the right angle the engine would quit and random dash lights would flicker on then off until I released the key and then it would run correctly.
Darn. Thought it was aliens!