My car just started shaking and both the CEL and TCS lights came on as well. I took it to my local shop and they want over 700 to replace all of the coil packs (6), spark plugs and clean out the injectors. Apparently they said that 4 cylindars were misfiring...but I have read many of the threads on the forum about that being wrong and 1 bad one could be causing it. So I plan on telling them to just leave it and try the ol trial and error method. Which will be really hard to diagnose if there is more than one bad, seeing how I don't have a reader to read the error codes. Anyway to my question...last summer I seafoamed my injectors, oil, and gas tank. I then promptly changed my oil and my plugs. Should I get new plugs as well, while i'm in there messing with the coil packs, or just see if the plugs are burnt up and then decide from there?

Thanks for all your guys help...

 

What kind of plugs did you put in?

I would try the 1 coil pack method before spending that much money

 

I think they were the NGK Iridium's...but I may be wrong. Maybe I didn't get all of the "crap" out into my old plugs when I did the seafoam, as the tech at the shop did say that he thought they were pretty mucky.

 

First thing- get the car out of that shop NOW

Mucky plugs- did he say that is normally caused when a coil fails and the spark plug is not firing?
Did they remove 1 or all the plugs just to inspect them? if so- theu are morons for not replacing and bad ones at the time
Its usually just 1 coil, and seafoam doesnt kill new plugs- a year later- what BS they are feeding you
Yes you will want to seafoam- see the new proper method DIY and sefaom the gas to clean the injectors
Buy a c oil for 50 bucks yourself and fix it at home, or take it to a shop that knows about acura and how to diagnose from the codes- not accept the codes as a diagnoses

Money is tight- shops are hurting- if they think they can play you they will
Call the Auto Repair Bureau in your state and ask for shops reputation

 

Car is out of the shop. Picking up a coil pack for 42 at AZ and going to hope I only have one bad one. I plan to throw in a can of seafoam into the gas tank once it is working correctly as well. I will post my results.

 

you will want to run seafoam at its cleaning dose in the tank- 2 oz seafoam to 1 gallon of gas. a can is 8 ounces seafoam

And definetly run some- 1/3 of the can at least- in the intake vac port AT the Throttle Body as now shown in the DIY
cleans the valves and piston tops off- if the plug looked bad so do those places.

 

Alright so the far right coil (on the front) seems to be the culprit as the car now idles correctly and is not shaking. The CEL is still on though. Is there a reset for that once it comes on, or is there possibly another coil bad, or something else wrong?

 

dude, get the codes read at autozone and post the codes here. We'll help you figure it out

 

You can reset the cel by pulling the clock backup fuse #8 in the passenger side footwell.
Thats the actual power for the ECU
someone correct me if needed

Or -after making sure you have the radio and nav security codes, disconnect the battery negative cable, take them both off and clean them as long as you are standing there!
Replace cables POS first then NEG
That has reset the ECU and should clear the CEL
Get some seafoma into the manifold- see the DIY for the port at the throttle body that is the right one to use. The old way of the hose on the side of the fender doesnt really work right.

If its smooth now- run the cleaner thru it and drive. Good job saving yourself $$$$

 

Clock backup fuse was 13...Pulled and light went off. Now the fuse did spark when I put it back in, but didn't look blown or separated when I took it back out. If the CEL needs to come back on, would it, even if that fuse wasn't working? I revved the engine and everything seemed great. I can't thank you guys enough for once again saving me money and giving very sound advice. I will foam it up tomorrow afternoon, as I don't have any more time this evening. Thanks again.

 

Now go for a drive by the shady shop while doing this:

 

 

This morning the when I parked at my office the rpm's dipped to about 500 and then went back to normal at 750...everytime after if I revved the engine it would do the same thing and dip below and shake a little bit and then come back up. Is there still something wrong, and the check engine light is just not coming on b/c of the fuse spark? I haven't foamed it up yet though...

 

Did you reset your ECU recently? Whenever I disconnect my battery my car does that for the 1st couple of times I start it up then it goes back to normal.

 

I did pull the 8th and 13th fuses on the passengar side so I think I may have done that.

 

Yes, you have reset the ENTIRE ECU Engine Control Unit by pulling the fuse as directed- thus resetting the CEL Check Engine Light- (a general warning meaning many things, but mostly it means time to look under the hood)-so it can look for any faults again
If the fuse was blown there would be no clock and no ECU power making the car inop
i think
Read the section in owner book on conditioning for smog test after battery disconnect
It has you drive a certain way for 30 minutes so the system relearns whats happening

Sometimes you get a CEL with seafoam treatment if you dont do a hotfoot drive afterwards.
- I would not wait to do seafoam,, after coil was bad--- as there wil lbe crud causing bad combustion and generate a CEL

 

make sure the fuse was the clock backup fuse
there is an ecu fuse but thats not the secret hidden power provided by the clock
this is info from azine threads