I just acquired a 2001 TL and need to change the spark plugs.
Is it possible to change the spark plugs without any special tools? I’ve never changed spark plugs before and have only the basic tools like a regular socket wrench set, screwdrivers, and other various household tools.

If it's too much trouble, I'll probably just buy a set online and have my mechanic install them.

 

all you really need is a sparkplug socket,6" extension, a 10mm socket, flat head screw driver and a metric allen wrench (dont remember the size) to remove the coilpacks.

 

Pretty easy to do..just get a long spark plug socket from the Zone or wherever..better than the extension IMO. Really helps when putting the new ones back in. Everything else should be in that little toolbox you got sittin in the garage.
For bonus points get a torque wrench and torque the plugs the proper amount..I like knowing everything has been done to perfection.

 

i actually have some questions about this as well. i tried a search but didn't see a diy for changing the spark plugs.
are the plugs just under the 3 packs in front and 3 in the back? any tips on changing the back? it looks like it's a tough place to reach and it's at a wierd angle...

 

i did this recently and i had to take off the stock strut bar to get at the back plugs
and its helpful to have a spark plug socket it really holds on to the plug tightly when installing and removing them so they dont fall in

and i think you can get a extension that has a bend in it so it might be easy to get at the back plugs with that

i saw it at canadiantire it came in a kit it was called a tuneup kit or something

 

Do you need to gap them, or do they come pre-gapped?

 

That's what I used & it worked well, better than an extension imo. Mine reached all the way to the top of the plug wells-no worries with a socket coming disconnected from an extension down in there. Guides the plug straigt into the threads too.

 

ngk iridium come pregapped

Best way I found to do the rears is a 3 and 6 inch extensions and a spark plug socket with magnet or rubber insert to hang on to the plug as its removed

There is even an indent in the firewall for your hand to fit!- put the 6 on the socket and lower away- add 3 inch and ratchet- now ready to remove

On install: use a very small amount of plug anti sieze on the middle 2 threads- not the tip!! bad to get that stuff inside the engine
Buy 1 foot of vac tubing- slip over top of plug and lower into hole- start threads with fingertip control and feeling so they go into the threads correctly
Then use tools to tighten

Some remove strut cross bar for more room

Do 1 front first to get the hang of it- then the rears- lean over engine or fender for access- put a blanket down to soften~
finsh with the other 2 easy to reach fronts

 

is it ok if i put anti seize on the whole thread... i put it everywhere but i made sure not to get anything on the tip of the plugs

 

that will be ok, the main thing is not to get any on the active part of the plug, and not so much on the first few threads that it squeezes onto the piston
Its just to make them easy to install and for the next person to remove someday

You can always seafoam it and know the pistons are clean and ready to combust against

 

I use the 2 extensions so its a no hassle drop into the plug-easier than trying to get a 9 inch extension and socket plus ratchet as one unit

to keep them together put the dot to the hole on the connection~

 

Mine has a rubber gasket thing like 01tl has suggested so it holds onto the plugs the whole way down. Then I hand thread them a little to make sure they're going in right before I use tools..long spark plug socket advantage.

Man, I forgot anti-seize. Oh well, at least someone said it.

NGK come pre-gapped..DON'T MESS WITH THEM!

Start with the back three is the only real advice for getting to them. I didn't need to remove strut bar but did remove some of the small stuff in the way. Front three are a piece of cake after the back three

 

I suggest do 1 front so you know what has to come apart in what order, how to release the clips etc. then do the rears since they are more difficult to reach, finishing quickly the last 2 fronts

The other important thing is to treat the coils like expensive fragile glass- setting each on a towel is a good plan!!

 

I use a piece of vac tubing on the end of the plug to lower it safely down and start the threads `by hand`
Its easy to get the first thread cross-threaded, then start tightening and suddenly it goes loose-oops
Doing it by hand and you know all is well.

Many of my habits come from working as a tech, knowing you will be the next guy to work on this car and you tend to do it right- no comebacks is the goal - and like doctors- do no harm!