for those of you who changed the rear rotors...how were you able to take it off?
I was able to change the fronts but the back ones just won't come off. I removed the spindle nut and it still didn't come off. The helms manual said to screw in two screws so it pushes the rotor away from the hub....but I wasn't able to find screws that fit the predrilled holes on the rotor. And the other two screws that hold in the rotor were a different size. Anyone know how to take off the rear rotor???

 

since you are replacing the rotors, I suspect those are "junk" after you remove it.. Hammer, for better leverage, you don't have to hit it from inside out... it just basically sit very tight on the hub and if you hit it loose, it should drop.

Though you should also find couple bolts to "pop" the rotor out as your manual suggested. Lowes and Home Depot should have some bolts for that. Oh, btw, did you remove those "screws" yet?

 

I used a rubber mallet and pounded it off. But you can also get 2 screws as you described and "press" the rotor off, turning each screw equal amount of times. I think the screw size you need to get is 8mm.

 

Great..thanks for your help guys...
I was afraid to bang on the rotors too hard and chip it...and if I couldn't get them off..I would be totally screwed. Yeah I'll stop by home depot and try to find those two screws that the manual calls for. I drove the car this morning...and noticed it still kind of shakes when I brake hard? Shouldn't this problem be solved with the change of new rotors and pads? I'm pretty sure that none of the bolts holding the calipers are loose. Any suggestions?
thanks..

 

lets get to couple basics here:
1. Did you torque the rotors with the specific torque according to factory specification?
2. New pads with new rotors?
3. Clean rotors off all the oil residual before your install??
4. Proper bed-in with enough time to cool down ???

Here's some reading for you on brake rotor wrapping and proper bed-in.. http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/bedincontents.htm

 

you need to pull off the little rubber plug on the rear rotor and use a flash light. if yu dont know what your looking for it will be harder, there is place (if my memory remembers correctly) towards the bottom its a little gear you need to turn it so that it relieves pressure and loosens teh rear drum so that the rotor could come off. i had to turn mine in all the way to get my rotors off

 

figured i bring this to the top rather than start a new thread.

i will be chaning the rear pads this weekend.. along w/ doing a brake flush.

so it looks like the rears are different than the fronts? i did the fronts and they were easy (except for those two screws)

i don't know if i should get new rotors.. i only want to change the pads. how thick do the rotors have to be to be turned? i know i turned it once already, and i'm sure the past owner had it turned.. so how many times can a rotor be turned?

so what about the e-brake? wll this make things more difficult?

 

Ok as for how much can the be turned, we cant really tell you that. It depends on how much was turned last time, how much wear the pads did this time. Only way is to pull them off and have them mic'ed.
Rears arent really any harder. You may have to back the adjuster off the parking brake to release some pressure but thats about it.

 

Just a quick question for those of you who've replaced your rotors... What did you guys do with your old ones? Is there a recycling process? I feel sort of bad tossing them in the garbage can.

 

I wouldnt be banging on the rotor. Its possible to damage the bearings and the hub. Thats why Acura provides the 2 prethreaded holes. Go down to Home Depot or Pep Boys and get the 8mm screw that fits in those holes. It will come out in 30 seconds

 

my rotors, pads and brake lines all saw the dumpster, tata!! brake fluid i recycled.

 

i'm too lazy to check if my rotors need to be turned or what not, i might just bite the bullet and get new rotors from autozone, or pepboys. good idea or no?

 

Negative! Unless you get them cryo treated.

 

wow, really?

 

Well it would be cheaper then OEM from Acura, but they will eventually warp on you. You can also go with Irotor or Rotora. I went with rotora and had them cryo treat, but it's not necessary.

 

well, the thing is i only have time to do it this morning so, no time for online ordering and such.

 

wtf is cryo treated?

 

it's the process of cryogenically freezing something (in this case a rotor) and then slowly bringing it back up to normal temperature. it aligns the molecules more precisely and allows metals to become harder and more durable.

back when i was on the (Taurus) SHO board alot of guys with the 5MT trannies would get their 3rd gears cryotreated since they were prone to breakage. it solved the issue more or less.

SSTS

 

I might have a hint for you. i just changed all 4 rotors the best way to get it off would be to first amke sure both screws are off and then make sure the Parking brake in the car is released. it will spin and come a little looser. i have a rubber dead blow hammer and just tap a few times and out it comes. make sure the parking brake is off cause if its on its not budging. trust me i know it took me some brain power to figure that one out. haha good luck.

 

fsttyms, so i took it off and replaced everything... now that gear that i turned... how much do i turn back? ....

FYI: my parking brake wasn't really working that well before i changed my pads... could this "gear thing" be the fix?

 

apply the parking brake over and over and it should slef adjust. If the brake wasnt working that well before it probably needs some cable adjustment

 

what about the gear thing i turned? how much do i turn back?

 

just leave as is. Applying the parking brake should self adjust it. (also only turn it if the parking brake is whats holding the rotor on)

 

ok thanks