A/C Mix Motor?
A/C Mix Motor?
So I went in to get the A/C Belt Tensioner fixed and ended up needing tires and several other "recommended items". I agree the tires were shot (Toyo TPT with 50k plus miles on them).
However, the shop said they were getting a code on the A/C mix motor and that I should consider replacing it as it's "going bad". Well - I haven't noticed a problem with the A/C or heat (my daughter drives the car mostly). So anyway, what does this part do and what should I expect if it's going bad ... I assume it wouldn't cool or heat very well? Any suggestions.
However, the shop said they were getting a code on the A/C mix motor and that I should consider replacing it as it's "going bad". Well - I haven't noticed a problem with the A/C or heat (my daughter drives the car mostly). So anyway, what does this part do and what should I expect if it's going bad ... I assume it wouldn't cool or heat very well? Any suggestions.
I think I have the same problem according to the diagnostic self-test you can do. The mix motor controls a 'door' which can move to mix cool and warm air based on the temperature setting you choose. I have noticed that when my a/c is on, the temp of the air blowing does not change at all whether on 65 or 75; it still blows cold air, but only the fan speed changes (when on auto). I think the mix motor would allow some warmer air to mix-in at a higher temp. With the mix motor broken, it just blows cold.
Thanks. I can test that. I did a little more digging and some older posts seems to indicate it can be a bad motor - or just the harnass/connector that's bad. Apparently the connector gets very hot and can melt. I am going to check that out as it should be less expensive although I am sure labor is still going to be high.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...%2Fc+Mix+motor
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...%2Fc+Mix+motor
That's right OP. The mix motor mixes the cool air and warm air based on the setting of the system. I'm not sure if they can go bad but some ppl complain they're not getting heat in the winter because the motor gets stuck until they adjust to 90 then back to desired level. The wire that controls it can get stuck. Couple ppl on here fixed it with wd40 or the like. I don't know if they can "go" bad. I figure either it works or doesn't. It may make noise if the cable controlling the heater valve isn't right but since you're not having a problem I'd say just leave it alone.
Thanks. I think I am going to leave it alone - see if she complains when winter hits. I know it's off-subject, but the other thing they said was that the positive battery connector was very corroded - almost all the way through. They quoted me around $200 to fix that - which is almost unbelievable. It appears they replace the entire cable assembly (32410-S0K-A30 CABLE ASSY., STARTER ) The part alone is around $80 and I guess the rest is labor. Anyway, I am not the type to jury-rig, but isn't it possible to just buy the battery post clamp at the auto parts store and just cut off the bad one and replace it? Something like this:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=95974_0_0_
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=95974_0_0_
So I went in to get the A/C Belt Tensioner fixed and ended up needing tires and several other "recommended items". I agree the tires were shot (Toyo TPT with 50k plus miles on them).
However, the shop said they were getting a code on the A/C mix motor and that I should consider replacing it as it's "going bad". Well - I haven't noticed a problem with the A/C or heat (my daughter drives the car mostly). So anyway, what does this part do and what should I expect if it's going bad ... I assume it wouldn't cool or heat very well? Any suggestions.
However, the shop said they were getting a code on the A/C mix motor and that I should consider replacing it as it's "going bad". Well - I haven't noticed a problem with the A/C or heat (my daughter drives the car mostly). So anyway, what does this part do and what should I expect if it's going bad ... I assume it wouldn't cool or heat very well? Any suggestions.
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Thanks. I think I am going to leave it alone - see if she complains when winter hits. I know it's off-subject, but the other thing they said was that the positive battery connector was very corroded - almost all the way through. They quoted me around $200 to fix that - which is almost unbelievable. It appears they replace the entire cable assembly (32410-S0K-A30 CABLE ASSY., STARTER ) The part alone is around $80 and I guess the rest is labor. Anyway, I am not the type to jury-rig, but isn't it possible to just buy the battery post clamp at the auto parts store and just cut off the bad one and replace it? Something like this:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=95974_0_0_
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=95974_0_0_
Some people with elaborite accessory and audio systems prefer to replace the connectors from the start.
You could also use this style of connector:
http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/stingerspt53102.aspx
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=05701398000P
A 3rd party shop would do this for a low cost.
It really is a 10-15 minute job.
You should find a connector that matches the wires gauge/thickness.
There are lots of people who have done this here.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by thelastaspec; Aug 2, 2010 at 01:24 PM.
I don't know howmechanically inclined are you. The starter cable is a very easy do it yourself job. Saves you money.
Measure the length of the cable you need. Go buy the cable and connectors you need. Always disconnect negativebattery post before you do any electrical work!! Good to know your radio or navi code too!! Cut wire to length. Attach connectors. Loosen starter wire. Loosen wire from battery. Old connector will probably be of no use at this point. Attach new wire to starter. Attach new connector for main fuse box and starter to positive side of battery. Double check your connections. Attach negative side. Done. Enter radio presets. Think of a job well done.
Its very easy I upgraded all my wiring for a stereo install. Works very well.
Measure the length of the cable you need. Go buy the cable and connectors you need. Always disconnect negativebattery post before you do any electrical work!! Good to know your radio or navi code too!! Cut wire to length. Attach connectors. Loosen starter wire. Loosen wire from battery. Old connector will probably be of no use at this point. Attach new wire to starter. Attach new connector for main fuse box and starter to positive side of battery. Double check your connections. Attach negative side. Done. Enter radio presets. Think of a job well done.
Its very easy I upgraded all my wiring for a stereo install. Works very well.
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