Brakes Question
Brakes Question
I think I've got a blockage in one of my brake lines, is it possible to clear out the line by using compressed air?
I think the lines go to a square box in the lower left hand corner of the engine bay, but I don't know which one is the driver's side rear line? Any ideas?
I think the lines go to a square box in the lower left hand corner of the engine bay, but I don't know which one is the driver's side rear line? Any ideas?
Unfortunately it's not that simple. All of the other lines will bleed except this one. I think it is clogged. No matter what I try, I cant get it to bleed. I've tried building pressure up then opening the bleeder screw, but nothing.
Let me guess- Left rear wont give up any fluid no matter what you try?
No You cant blow air thru the lines- thats a bad thing
Whats likely happened is some moisture has turned to rust particles and is blocking
the bleeder valve- need to change brake fluid every year as safety
This happened on 3 cars I have seen this year- all TLs 2001 2002 and 2005!
Solution is brute force method-
Place a small block of 2x4 under the brake pedal to prevent it from travelling more than 3/4 of the way to the floor- this will protect its seals in a minute- always good to do if using inexperienced helper too!
NOW - with 2 people- one stands ready at bleeder valve- has clear tube on nipple running into plastic jug- You grab steering wheel- both feet on brake pedal, hands on steering wheel for leverage- squeeze your glute muscles and abs- OPEN BLEEDER NOW
now push brake pedal hard harder harder and finally blam it comes free and the pedal shoots towards the floor- when it hits the block- you say DOWN and helper closes valve- repeat as needed
Bleed order for TL is Driver front = LF
LF RF RR LR
No You cant blow air thru the lines- thats a bad thing
Whats likely happened is some moisture has turned to rust particles and is blocking
the bleeder valve- need to change brake fluid every year as safety
This happened on 3 cars I have seen this year- all TLs 2001 2002 and 2005!
Solution is brute force method-
Place a small block of 2x4 under the brake pedal to prevent it from travelling more than 3/4 of the way to the floor- this will protect its seals in a minute- always good to do if using inexperienced helper too!
NOW - with 2 people- one stands ready at bleeder valve- has clear tube on nipple running into plastic jug- You grab steering wheel- both feet on brake pedal, hands on steering wheel for leverage- squeeze your glute muscles and abs- OPEN BLEEDER NOW
now push brake pedal hard harder harder and finally blam it comes free and the pedal shoots towards the floor- when it hits the block- you say DOWN and helper closes valve- repeat as needed
Bleed order for TL is Driver front = LF
LF RF RR LR
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Suck fluid out with turkey baster
loosen brake lines- remove mounting bolts- remove cylinder
install- tighten- tighten- add fluid- start the bleeding process
You may get air in the ABS controller- so bleed them, then do a test drive-
re-bleed if they feel weak
Acura test method is to do 2 ABS engagement stops and if the pedal gets weak on second one- you have air in the controller- bleed brakes again
If all else fails- a pro brake shop will find a way and have a pressure bleeder
On bleeding- put small block of 2x4 or similar ~under pedal~ to stop brake pedal from going more than 3/4 travel or you will destroy those nice new seals
When you want to build pressure you pump them 3 to 5 times and hold like on a steep hill- then bleeder is opened- person pushes pedal with same effort- thats what you want- a buddy with weak mind and strong leg!
loosen brake lines- remove mounting bolts- remove cylinder
install- tighten- tighten- add fluid- start the bleeding process
You may get air in the ABS controller- so bleed them, then do a test drive-
re-bleed if they feel weak
Acura test method is to do 2 ABS engagement stops and if the pedal gets weak on second one- you have air in the controller- bleed brakes again
If all else fails- a pro brake shop will find a way and have a pressure bleeder
On bleeding- put small block of 2x4 or similar ~under pedal~ to stop brake pedal from going more than 3/4 travel or you will destroy those nice new seals
When you want to build pressure you pump them 3 to 5 times and hold like on a steep hill- then bleeder is opened- person pushes pedal with same effort- thats what you want- a buddy with weak mind and strong leg!
If you can't blow out the obstruction with the pressure generated throught the master cylinder, air won't help.
When you depress the pedal, does that wheel still turn? I'm assuming that it does.
When you depress the pedal, does that wheel still turn? I'm assuming that it does.
I wonder if you have an obstruction in the ABS unit? Or a bad ABS unit? i think you need to isolate where the obstruction is located. Master cylinder to ABS unit or ABS unit to caliper or the ABS unit itself.
As much as I want people to work on their own cars- this one has reached the stage of- needs a pro
Dont be playing around with compressed air and the brakes- their normal max pressure using a power bleeder is 20 psi- while an air compressor shoots 120psi !!!
Dont be playing around with compressed air and the brakes- their normal max pressure using a power bleeder is 20 psi- while an air compressor shoots 120psi !!!
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