I just replaced my front pads and rotors with EBC's and replaced my tires with Continental DWS. However my brakes are not sharp. I have to basically floor it before I feel the car begin to stop. When I had the OEM rotors and brakes I stopped much sharper. Can anybody give me some suggestion of what else to check?

Thanks

 

Welcome to the foums...

Perhaps there is some air in the brake lines? Maybe you need to try bleeding the brake lines again?

Which EBC rotors and pads did you get? Did you bed them in properly?

 

not likely air in lines-- but crud got backwashed in system and it needs an overall FLUSH of the brake fluid anyway- moisture makes weak pedal

bleed implies a line was opened and air is in the system,
flush just moves old fluid out and new fluid in

we should be changing brake fluid every year now!!, moisture in the air gets sucked in and ruins fluid,(and ABS parts) our parts are getting older...
spend a few bucks on brake fluid and flush system BEFORE any brake work to prevent problems and once a year to keep pedal firm and working-
wiki hygroscopic for tech details

for the OP
Its driver front= LF, then clockwise around the car from driver view- different but true for the TL!
LF RF RR LR- that will restore good pedal

if new to this- place small bit of 2x4 under brake pedal so it doesnt go all the way to floor and damage master cyl internal oring seal- 3/4 travel is all it gets in everyday use and all it needs to push fluid out

see EBC instructions for proper pad and rotor bedding
There are micro hills and valleys in the rotor and pad surface- bedding gets those ground into each other for full surface contct, and do a `hot pads` transfer layer of pad material to the rotor= best braking

search my name and bedding for details- after searching internet or ebc for their bedding procedure everyone is different- I know its on their website- have those pads on my bike

 

Thanks for the replies. I will try the flush...I already installed the brakes and rotors will flushing affect this?

I installed EBC greenstuff and EBC slotted rotors on front
EBC greenstuff and Brembo plian rotors on rear

 

01tl4tl is a great resource - good advice..

 

First a flush is in need. 2nd you shouldnt be hard braking on new brakes. You should give them 500 miles or so to break in. Then you should "Bed" in your pads.

 

Well I drive 150 miles to work each day so I by passed 500 miles awhile ago but havent been breaking hard as I drive almost all highway. What is "Bed" in your pads?

 

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/troubleshooting.shtml

Drive your vehicle steadily within the first 300-400 miles of road use only using the brakes violently in case of emergency. During this time use the brakes lightly and intermittently to achieve a matching between the pad and rotor which we call break in or bed in.
The time with which perfect break in will have occurred depends on how often the brakes are used. If you drive on a freeway and do not use your brakes for miles at a time, break in periods will be much longer.
Using the brakes with caution during their early life will extend their wear life and greatly reduce the chances of rotor vibration or “shimmying” as it is known in the States.
During the bed in time the pads will only contact the disc on a limited area until tiny irregularities in machining or misalignment of the pads against the rotor have been removed.
You can easily see how far you have progressed with bedding in your new brakes by looking through the wheel spokes and evaluating pad contact. The rotor should look shiny and smooth across its surfaces from outside to inside in all areas of the rotor.
If you have purchased EBC gold zinc or black zinc coated sport slotted rotors, all of these coatings should have been visibly removed across the entire braking area of the rotor.
After you are confident that the pads and discs are perfectly mated, use the brakes on a quiet and safe road 5-6 times at medium pressure bringing the car from 60mph to 10mph.
Drive the vehicle for a few miles to allow the brakes to cool and repeat this procedure.
During this final break-in a brake odor will almost certainly appear and this is perfectly normal. This is known as green fade where the surface resins within the pad finally cure and burn off.

This bed in procedure is for STREET driving .

 

flushing the brake fluid will restore good pedal and has no effect on the parts you already installed-
I mean besides being the hydraulics that operate the brakes~
DOT4 synthetic or regular- get 2 qts

anyone who has not done the brake fluid and owned the car more than 2 years- do it now and once a year from now on

 

Is there a DIY for brake fluid flush?

 

if its not in the diy list, do a search for it- covered thousands of times
here is the diy list
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/

main thing to know is the order is unlike normal cars
its driver front- LF, then clockwise around the car
LF RF RR LR
DOT4 fluid get 2 qts
noobs place a piece of 2x4 wood under the brake pedal arm- so it cant go more than its normal amount towards the floor
actually going to the floor is really bad for the master cylinder seals

flush each caliper until clean fluid and then some more
refill master cyl as needed and between each wheel

caution !!!!
brake fluid EATS car paint!!!! so rags around the master cyl during refill are a good idea