So while replacing my front engine mount, I ended up stripping one of the three 14mm bolts holding the bracket. In this photo from myTaLizaS3.2's great DIY thread, it's the lower-right(driver-side) one:



I've added a ton of anti-rust lubricant and waiting for it to sink in, plus have a set of "stripped nuts" sockets to try, but it might be a very tight fit, so I'm wondering if there's any way to replace the mount without removing the bracket. I know the proper way is to take the bracket off, but just wondering if there was a less-optimal plan B.

I saw another thread where someone was trying to jack up the engine so that the bracket would clear the top of the mount, but everyone just told him to remove the bracket.

- The mount is basically in two parts: an upper and lower part held together by four bolts (two of which can be seen above). Could I disassemble the old and new mounts, and take out and put in the mount in two parts, then reassemble when under the bracket? Or will disassembling the mount cause all the lubrication, etc. to come out?

- In the service manual, removing the engine requires the disconnection of many hoses and cables. Do you think I can remove the brackets of the side and rear mounts and jack up the engine enough to clear the front mount without removing all the hoses, etc.? Or am I just asking for trouble by extending the hoses, etc. beyond tolerances? Most of the hoses look like I could probably move them about the inch that's required for the front mount bracket to clear the mount. On the other hand, the manual warns about kinking some of the cables, etc. while removing the engine.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

 

You probably could raise the motor enough to get the mount out, but I'm not sure. Is the bolt head completed stripped/rounded?

 

You can try cutting a deep slot in the stripped bolt head with a dremel cutoff wheel to "create" a slotted (or phillips) head and try to get that bolt off. I've had some luck doing that before. Might be tough with such a stuck bolt though.

 

Yeah, it's really stuck and stripped, which is why I'm asking if anyone has any tips on changing the mount while leaving the bracket on. Raising the engine is an option, but wondering what I would need to do to ensure I don't wreak any hoses, etc. that are attached to the engine.

 

Are you using Metric tools?

It can be removed without taking it off but its much easier to remove with it out.

 

Yes.

How would you suggest taking out the mount while leaving the bracket on, then?

Thanks.

 

That is a good idea, but extremely rare to work. I just did the exact same thing on my motor mount bolt (side) that was cross threaded. The screw driver (which fit perfect) just ripped the steel apart and didn't turn the bolt or even move it.

You could try drilling it, heating it and try easy outing it. PITA, but would likely work.

 

Thanks for everyone's tips on removing stuck bolts, but I've tried many things and the path of least resistance seems to be leaving the bracket on and trying to raise the engine high enough for the bracket to clear the mount. Any tips on what hoses, parts, etc. need to be removed before jacking up the engine? I'm thinking the brackets for side and rear mounts need to be removed otherwise you're just jacking up the car since it's still attached. Most wires probably have enough flexibility to move up an inch. I'm wondering about fuel lines, etc. however...

 

I had a similar problem when I changed the front mount on my CLS-6. Although I did not have the issue of a stripped bolt, I could not get the engine high enough to START the treading of the lower left bolt because it was constantly at an angle. This was the result of the mount bracket not sitting flush with the block. I had the engine jacked up as far as it would reasonably go, the transmission mounts freed up, but still could not get the bracket flush enough to correctly thread the bolt. Therefore, I loosened up the two flange bolts (#23) at each side of the front beam (#11) about half an inch.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

This, in-turn, allowed the front beam (on which the front mount sits) to drop DOWN just enough to get the mount bracket flush/closer to the engine block for proper threading. The combined distance of the engine jacked up and the front beam dropping down got me through my little ordeal. However be sure to support everything properly with a jack and jackstands.

Good luck!

 

wug :

This really sucks. I'm not sure you will able to get enough space to ease the old one out and the new one in. I remember it being a very tight fit. I guess the thinking is to jack up the engine and take it out/in from underneath. You might have to remove the rad(s) to make more room.

As for the stripped bolt head, be careful with this as the block is aluminum and if you break the head off or strip the threads, you're in for a load of trouble.

I wish you the best of luck.

 

Wow, was it on that tight? You were using 6pt socket I hope?

Have you tried filing two sides of the bolt head getting vise grips on there? It might work tapping it with a hammer.

 

It doesn't look like there is enough room to get a socket in there without getting the mount out. You might try taking the old mount out by taking it apart as you mentioned (or by cutting it in half with a sawsall or whatever) then get a special socket for a rounded bolt head in there.

Unless the bolt head is very rounded off a 6 point box wrench could probably grip it and it could then be loosened by hitting the wrench with a hammer ( I have a 3 lb one I use for this). The wrench and hammer method often works for a tight fastener in a hard place to get to.

 

With regard to the above advice....remember this is an aluminum block and too much force either way will take the threads with it.

 

You could also try getting a standard socket (just smaller than the correct metric) and force it on the bolt with a hammer and then get it off. I just did that the other day on a friend van that had an altnerator bracket bolt rounded. Had to get to the side of the front head to replace the cylinder head plug. It worked perfectly for me.

 

Fixed! Thanks all for your suggestions!

Here's what happened and maybe this will help someone else in the future:

- The usual suggestions for removing stripped bolts (stripped bolt socket, smaller socket, Dremel'ing a cut to use screwdriver, etc.) couldn't apply because there's just no room there. I can't even fit a normal shallow socket in there, just either an open wrench or thin box wrench. Forget that idea.

- I was thinking of "splitting" the mount because the top and bottom halves are held together by four bolts. I thought I could take out the bolts, then slide out the bottom half, then have room to take out the top half. However, looking at my new mount, it looks like it's one piece and undoing the bolts would not separate it into two parts. Forget that idea.

- I then thought a combination of lowering the front beam and raising the engine would give me enough clearance to take out the mount (zeta's suggestion), however, when I undid the flange bolts for the front beam, it hardly budged. I think it was because the radius rods are still in there, and the front beam is still held in place with the rear beam with seven bolts on both sides. I would need to loosen those bolts plus the radius rods to make the front beam move down. Forget that idea.

- Therefore, I did one of my most bravest and stupidiest things I've ever done by raising the engine. I took off the rear mount nut and the side mount bracket completely, then checked all the hoses, cables, etc. attached to the engine to see if there was sufficient "give" if I raised it the approx. inch and a half required. I then put a wooden block under the oil pan and raised it enough to move the old mount out, and have sufficient room to use a "stripped bolt" socket to take out the bad bolt. If I couldn't get it off, I would just leave it the bracket in place, but luckily it came off.

Yes, I could really have screwed things up, so I would not recommend it to anyone, but I drove it around today and everything seems fine, so here's one person who was able to jack up the engine and live to tell about it. Time will tell if I caused any damage that's not immediately noticable.

Tip: aligning the bolt holes for the mount to the front beam was a pain. I used four big screwdrivers so that if a hole was slightly aligned, I could insert a screwdriver and pry it until it was aligned.

 

lol. If you are on your back, there is absolutley no room for error when re-threading/loosening/tightening those bracket mount bolts.

Yeah, I was able to maneuver the mount out from the top and just needed a little room to get that bracket flush.

Brilliant. Whatever works. Just goes to show that if you use critical thinking alot of these repairs are very doable.

Just wondering if your mount was aftermarket? Aligning the holes on my OEM replacement mount was spot on.

 

you are lucky. You're car will probably be fine though. What could you have damaged? Pinched something? Exhaust crack?