broly

thought about it more, #1 is wrong. you can't just move the WHT wire from the solenoid to the WHT wire on C101 on the engine harness, because it's a loop.

• i'll think of a way to get the OUTPUT from the ECU to the reverse lockout solenoid.

i wasn't thinking about it properly because the ECU's OUTPUT is from the dash harness side, and we have to get that to the solenoid in the engine bay.

but i think #2 is still correct, since that is OUTPUT and it will feed into the reverse circuit for the A/T.

regarding the IMRC, i have a much cleaner solution:

since pin 13 on the AT's C101 (BLU/ORN, male, left-engine harness side) is not the same as the MT's (LT BLU) just swap the BLU/ORN (pin #11) and LT BLU (#17) on C303.

• this should have the effect of making the BLU/ORN wire on C101 now correspond to the LT BLU wire (as it should) because we swapped them at C303 (which connects the left engine harness to the dashboard harness)

this should allow the IMRC signal to "reach" the IMRC through the left engine harness, assuming the ECU is the 'output' and not 'input' (which i think is the case).

really glad i read this thread properly yesterday.

broly

sorry, C303 is not available on the TL (only the CL).

for the IMRC, i think we should re-pin the A/T's ECU connector A, pin #13 (LT BLU) into the M/T engine harness ECU connector B, pin #15 (LT BLU), because as it stands the IMRC message is not being sent through the engine harness to the left engine harness.

for the reverse circuit, it's similar. in this case we route pin #9 on C101 from the left engine harness (WHT, CIRCUIT M34, aka reverse circuit for A/T) to pin #11 on the main engine harness (YEL, reverse backup light).

for the interlock, i think the best option is to tap the WHT wire from the ECU connector "E" and just run it back through the firewall grommet and into the reverse solenoid's WHT wire.

broly

for the interlock unit, i think i found a decent solution. since we are pinning our ILU into the ECU, and this ILU is totally different from the M/T (which technically does not have an interlock system), we can do this:


route pin #10 on C101 on the left-side engine harness (RED/BLK, CIRCUIT M22, aka neutral position) to pin #9 on the M/T engine harness (WHT, reverse lock solenoid).

• this means the reverse lock solenoid output will now route through the neutral circuit.

since the relay seems to connect BLK/RED to RED/WHT and BLK/YEL to BLK when it has power (??), i don't think we need to splice the BLK/RED wire directly into the RED/WHT??

no reverse ground or anything needed. if there is a cleaner way, say buying a relay that will connect these two positions regardless, then i would recommend that.

this should take care of everything except for the fuel tank pressure sensor signal and the clutch interlock signal, so your car won't start. but i do think this is some great re-wiring, since it doesn't cut any wires.

where i made a small error/discovered a premier solution for the latter, which i may eventually share if i ever go down this road.

any and all feedback is welcome. i bet the moochers on the av6 or honda-tech forums have their bib off: fuck off, you already ruined our access to OEM parts with your shitty "christmas light dash" swaps. losers. do it right or drive a gookmobile.

Taseen Syed

Hi @619rcr Do you remember how you got your reverse lights working in your 6thgen when you did the swap? I followed the google sheets wiring diagram but when i put the shifter in reverse, the P illuminates on the dash instead of R and my reverse lights dont work.

Thanks!

619rcr

The 01 accord that I did the jswap on was a manual transmission 4cyl. Although, many years ago I did an AT to MT swap on a 99 accord 4cyl. IIRC basically you have to find the wire that connects to the shifter by the transmission case for the rev lights. Not sure if it's the same colors on the 2G, but below is the note I made on the accord ext lighting diagram.



GL

Taseen Syed

Thanks 619Rcr! I'll be wiring this in tonight. Also did you ever get ABS wired up through the E connector?

broly

blu, your sensor is probably fucked.

i'd check your mainshaft speed sensor, it's above the output shaft speed sensor. that probably has something to do with your speedo. you should be getting a CEL code if your tach is truly borked. otherwise it may just be your gauges, but i'd look at the VSS pin on your "E" plug and see if it's giving the right output.'

you can tap into it from the cruise control plug too. look in the FSM for the blu/wht wire.

it's easy to crack or break the sensors if you try to remove the casing without removing the sensors (first hand experience, ha).

for me, i have a code because the wire harness i had was cut at the transmission side, so no speedo. but i have full ABS and only T0720.

but i digress, my freshie is on its way and then i may, just may, do a show and tell.

• but i know zeta is lurking and waiting with a big tub of popcorn, and that makes me not want to do it. sorry zeta

everything i hypothesised in this thread was bang on. i can't test the reverse lockout solenoid circuit yet, but the reverse circuit is absolute money.

eat my mfin shorts. the "redneck swap" will finally get its long-overdue christening.

edit: crustyneon, aka "duluth" (that's his name) has the worst pose i've seen for a picture like this. i originally thought he was wearing cargo shorts, but really pajama pants are equally bad.

it's forever engrained in my mind.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Now I completely understand from your post below, IT'S a Canadian thing!

619rcr

Sorry, don't get on Azine very often anymore having mostly Honda builds now. Anyways, yes at one point I had full functionality with the cls6 engine harness, accord chassis harness, accord dash and cls6 ecu in the 6th gen accord chassis. My situation was a bit unique being a 4cyl chassis, some of the wiring locations were flipped vs the 6cyl chassis. Long story short I had to extend the ABS wiring about 2 feet to make it reach.