2007 Acura RL NO sound from speakers
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2007 Acura RL NO sound from speakers
Got a 2007 Acura RL, a shop was doing some paint work on the car, and apparently tried to jump start it cuz the battery died and blew the main fuse. I replaced the fuse and the car started, but then the radio didn't work, so I found that the radio fuse was blown too, I replaced that and the radio started working but no sound was coming from the speakers.
I checked and double checked all the fuse boxes to make sure all my fuses were in order, and all of them seem to be fine but still no sound coming from the speakers.
I did the audio system diagnosis using the 1 & 6 button, it says everything else is fine, but for the amp it says "AMP NG" which obviously means there's something wrong.
I then bought another amp off ebay, thinking maybe the amp got fried or something, replaced it today, still no dice. I'm out of options.
Anything else I should be checking for that I missed? It used to work fine...
I checked and double checked all the fuse boxes to make sure all my fuses were in order, and all of them seem to be fine but still no sound coming from the speakers.
I did the audio system diagnosis using the 1 & 6 button, it says everything else is fine, but for the amp it says "AMP NG" which obviously means there's something wrong.
I then bought another amp off ebay, thinking maybe the amp got fried or something, replaced it today, still no dice. I'm out of options.
Anything else I should be checking for that I missed? It used to work fine...
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From: Austin, TX
What the hell did they jumps start it with? Does the the diagnostic still say "Amp NG" for this amp? Maybe the system needs a hard reset to recognize the amp is different. Unplug the battery for 15 min or so see if it resets.
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I dunno but however they did it they blew the main fuse that I had to replace, so they obviously did something wrong, maybe mixed up positive and negative? Disconnected and reconnected... no dice. Something else i'm missing?
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Do you have a voltmeter? I would check the power to the amp harness. Once you know you have power, you can check the input signal. The key is to go step by step through the system. To check the incoming signal, you can put the voltmeter on AC and put a tone on the stereo. Using an iPhone with youtube is easiest. If you don't have this, you should be able to pick up some signals with any music. If you have power and an incoming signal, check the output signal. My initial guess is you don't have power.
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Do you have a voltmeter? I would check the power to the amp harness. Once you know you have power, you can check the input signal. The key is to go step by step through the system. To check the incoming signal, you can put the voltmeter on AC and put a tone on the stereo. Using an iPhone with youtube is easiest. If you don't have this, you should be able to pick up some signals with any music. If you have power and an incoming signal, check the output signal. My initial guess is you don't have power.
Also, I do have an iphone... how do I go about doing that part?
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Here is a pin out of the wire harnesses into the amp.
Unplug all of your harnesses with the car off. Turn the ignition to (1) where the radio is on.
Put one probe (black one) of the voltmeter in a ground hole (like B3) and put the other probe (red one) into the radio sw hole (C19). The voltmeter needs to be on DC and should read 12 V. This is your main power. If that is good, check the remote turn on (A24). This should read 5 V. If both of these are correct, I would say you have power. If you can't get a reading, try touching the black probe to the chassis of the car as this is your main ground. You have to make really good contact with the chassis though. If you aren't getting power, a fuse somewhere is probably blown.
If you have power, plug your iPhone into your Aux line and find a youtube video of a single tone (say 1 kHz, but it doesn't really matter). You can use one with multiple tones as long as each one stays on for 5 or so seconds. Try to avoid anything above 15 kHz or below 100 Hz. Above 15k will probably only go through the tweeters and below 100 will only be on the sub woofer output.
Once you have a tone going through the stereo, put the voltmeter on AC and put one probe in a negative speaker hole and the other probe in the corresponding positive speaker hole. It shouldn't matter which one as long as they both go to the same speaker and are the incoming signal. It looks like the incoming signal (from the radio to the amp) are concentrated on harness A. A5&6, A12&13, A19&20, A21&22, and A25&26 should all do the same thing, but you really only need to check one. The voltmeter should show the same frequency as the video is outputting. If there is no signal here, the stereo may be bad.
If you have a signal here, then your stereo is outputting a signal to the amp. Then you will need to check the output of the amp. B8&9, B1&6, and B2&7 should do the trick. If you have no signal here, then the amp is bad.
If you have power, an incoming signal, and an outgoing signal, then I would almost be stumped. The last thing to check would be the signal right at the speakers. However, I don't think you will get this far without finding a problem.
Unplug all of your harnesses with the car off. Turn the ignition to (1) where the radio is on.
Put one probe (black one) of the voltmeter in a ground hole (like B3) and put the other probe (red one) into the radio sw hole (C19). The voltmeter needs to be on DC and should read 12 V. This is your main power. If that is good, check the remote turn on (A24). This should read 5 V. If both of these are correct, I would say you have power. If you can't get a reading, try touching the black probe to the chassis of the car as this is your main ground. You have to make really good contact with the chassis though. If you aren't getting power, a fuse somewhere is probably blown.
If you have power, plug your iPhone into your Aux line and find a youtube video of a single tone (say 1 kHz, but it doesn't really matter). You can use one with multiple tones as long as each one stays on for 5 or so seconds. Try to avoid anything above 15 kHz or below 100 Hz. Above 15k will probably only go through the tweeters and below 100 will only be on the sub woofer output.
Once you have a tone going through the stereo, put the voltmeter on AC and put one probe in a negative speaker hole and the other probe in the corresponding positive speaker hole. It shouldn't matter which one as long as they both go to the same speaker and are the incoming signal. It looks like the incoming signal (from the radio to the amp) are concentrated on harness A. A5&6, A12&13, A19&20, A21&22, and A25&26 should all do the same thing, but you really only need to check one. The voltmeter should show the same frequency as the video is outputting. If there is no signal here, the stereo may be bad.
If you have a signal here, then your stereo is outputting a signal to the amp. Then you will need to check the output of the amp. B8&9, B1&6, and B2&7 should do the trick. If you have no signal here, then the amp is bad.
If you have power, an incoming signal, and an outgoing signal, then I would almost be stumped. The last thing to check would be the signal right at the speakers. However, I don't think you will get this far without finding a problem.
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Solved my problem. Wasn't getting any power, so I looked a little more carefully at all the fuses, and apparently, when I was reading one of them, I read the numbers backwards, pulled out one of the big square fuses and its blown. (30amp) Thanks for the help, even though this was my fault for not seeing it earlier! 
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No problem. Glad I could help. Anytime someone has a computer problem, the first question I ask is, "is it plugged in?" Simple overlooked fixes are always better than complex work intensive ones, even if they make you feel silly.
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need to talk to 007spy Asap , it seem you always know what to do and how ...If you can can you send me a email? Dcmastermind@yahoo.com
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Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: puerto rico
Hey man sorry for bringing this tread back to life but im having the exact same problem can you help me out?where is the fuse under the hood or inside the car?can you tell me how to identify it? Thanks!
1st Gear
Joined: May 2008
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I am having a similar issue, but I am getting sound for about the first 30-90 seconds of turning on the car, before hearing a loud crackle and losing sound. If I try and switch the source to DISC it expedites the process. I can change channels and adjust volume, I just can not hear anything audio. Any thoughts?
6th Gear
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 6
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From: Houston, TX
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I've been running into a similar issue. It started out last night. I turned the car on, the radio was working fine. About 5 minutes into the car ride there was a lot of static on the radio station. I changed radio station and found that all of the stations had the same static. I tried cd's and got no sound. I have a aftermarket dice mediabridge installed, and I wasn't getting any audio from that either. Then no sound at all from any source.From reading this thread (https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-90/cold-night-car-starts-no-sound-876623/) and Heavy asking about aftermarket products I'm wondering if my avital remote start could be draining the battery? It's the only thing that I've done differently with the car recently since I've been using it nearly daily as it's been colder for the past week or two. I find it hard to believe that it could be the battery because I got a new one 6-8 months ago, but I'm not sure what else it could be at this point.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Racer
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 312
Likes: 63
From: Finland
Simple things first, basic things have to be in order so that you can find the fault.
-Battery connections and end of those cables tight?
-Fuses, double or triple check.
-Mediabridge is one aftermarket thing that effects (maybe more than that remote start) on these your problems, those connections tight?
-Battery connections and end of those cables tight?
-Fuses, double or triple check.
-Mediabridge is one aftermarket thing that effects (maybe more than that remote start) on these your problems, those connections tight?
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From: Austin, TX
Check the amp using the self diagnostic mode.
Originally Posted by RL Service Manual, Audio System
HOW TO ENTER THE SELF-DIAGNOSIS MODE
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC (I) or ON (II).
2. Enter the anti-theft code. (If prompted)
3. Push and hold the "No. 1" and "No. 6" buttons and "PWR" knob.
4. The word "DIAG" appears on the subdisplay.
AUDIO AMPLIFIER COMMUNICATION CHECK MODE
By pressing the No. 6 button, the audio amplifier communication line is checked.
HOW TO EXIT THE SELF-DIAGNOSIS MODE
Turn the audio power off or the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Some other helpful procedures:
LCD LIGHTING MODE
By pressing the No. 3 button, the entire LCD will turn on to show the presence or absence of a faulty LCD.
LCD LIGHTS-OUT MODE
By pressing the No. 4 button, the entire LCD will turn off to show the presence or absence of a faulty LCD.
LCD BACK-UP LIGHT LIGHTING/LIGHTS-OUT MODE
Press the No. 4 button to turn off the entire LCD, then press and hold the "DISC" button for 5 seconds. The
LCD backup lights should come on. From this point, press and hold the "DISC" button for 5 seconds again,
and the LCD back-up lights should go off.
CLIMATE CONTROL SYSTEM COMMUNICATION CHECK MODE
By pressing the No. 5 button, the climate control unit communication line is checked.
ACTIVE NOISE CONTROL (ANC) SYSTEM CHECK MODE
Active noise control can be turned ON or OFF, and the current status is checked. The active noise control
switches ON and OFF with every push of the No. 1 button. It checks for loose wires or poor connections at
the active noise control unit connector (16P) in case that "-" is displayed.
HOW TO OBTAIN THE AUDIO UNIT SERIAL NUMBER
NOTE: This procedure can only when the power has been disconnected from the
audio unit, and the audio unit displays CODE.
With the audio unit switched off, push and hold the preset buttons No. 1, No. 6 and the PWR knob.
The audio unit will display the letter U with the first four digits of the serial number (example U1234).
The display then changes and displays the letter L and the last four digits of the serial number (example
L5678).
Use all eight digits as the serial number when using the interactive network iN to get the 5 digit anti-theft
code.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC (I) or ON (II).
2. Enter the anti-theft code. (If prompted)
3. Push and hold the "No. 1" and "No. 6" buttons and "PWR" knob.
4. The word "DIAG" appears on the subdisplay.
AUDIO AMPLIFIER COMMUNICATION CHECK MODE
By pressing the No. 6 button, the audio amplifier communication line is checked.
HOW TO EXIT THE SELF-DIAGNOSIS MODE
Turn the audio power off or the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Some other helpful procedures:
LCD LIGHTING MODE
By pressing the No. 3 button, the entire LCD will turn on to show the presence or absence of a faulty LCD.
LCD LIGHTS-OUT MODE
By pressing the No. 4 button, the entire LCD will turn off to show the presence or absence of a faulty LCD.
LCD BACK-UP LIGHT LIGHTING/LIGHTS-OUT MODE
Press the No. 4 button to turn off the entire LCD, then press and hold the "DISC" button for 5 seconds. The
LCD backup lights should come on. From this point, press and hold the "DISC" button for 5 seconds again,
and the LCD back-up lights should go off.
CLIMATE CONTROL SYSTEM COMMUNICATION CHECK MODE
By pressing the No. 5 button, the climate control unit communication line is checked.
ACTIVE NOISE CONTROL (ANC) SYSTEM CHECK MODE
Active noise control can be turned ON or OFF, and the current status is checked. The active noise control
switches ON and OFF with every push of the No. 1 button. It checks for loose wires or poor connections at
the active noise control unit connector (16P) in case that "-" is displayed.
HOW TO OBTAIN THE AUDIO UNIT SERIAL NUMBER
NOTE: This procedure can only when the power has been disconnected from the
audio unit, and the audio unit displays CODE.
With the audio unit switched off, push and hold the preset buttons No. 1, No. 6 and the PWR knob.
The audio unit will display the letter U with the first four digits of the serial number (example U1234).
The display then changes and displays the letter L and the last four digits of the serial number (example
L5678).
Use all eight digits as the serial number when using the interactive network iN to get the 5 digit anti-theft
code.
Last edited by oo7spy; Jan 7, 2013 at 02:48 PM.
6th Gear
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 2
From: Houston, TX
Thanks for the responses guys. And sorry for the delay.
Everything looks tight and plugged in. I forgot to mention that the bluetooth is still working. It's just the radio that is having the issue.
I did the amp diag and it said that it was okay, but I had a buddy of mine that used to work for Acura take a look at it and he believes that it is the amp. He said that the diag only tests whether or not the amp is turning on, but he was surprised that this issue came up because it was something that was common for TL's, not the RL's. Either way, I'll likely replace the amp and see if that fixes it.
Everything looks tight and plugged in. I forgot to mention that the bluetooth is still working. It's just the radio that is having the issue.
I did the amp diag and it said that it was okay, but I had a buddy of mine that used to work for Acura take a look at it and he believes that it is the amp. He said that the diag only tests whether or not the amp is turning on, but he was surprised that this issue came up because it was something that was common for TL's, not the RL's. Either way, I'll likely replace the amp and see if that fixes it.
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
[QUOTE=oo7spy;12898609]Here is a pin out of the wire harnesses into the amp.
Unplug all of your harnesses with the car off. Turn the ignition to (1) where the radio is on.
Put one probe (black one) of the voltmeter in a ground hole (like B3) and put the other probe (red one) into the radio sw hole (C19). The voltmeter needs to be on DC and should read 12 V. This is your main power. If that is good, check the remote turn on (A24). This should read 5 V. If both of these are correct, I would say you have power. If you can't get a reading, try touching the black probe to the chassis of the car as this is your main ground. You have to make really good contact with the chassis though. If you aren't getting power, a fuse somewhere is probably blown.
If you have power, plug your iPhone into your Aux line and find a youtube video of a single tone (say 1 kHz, but it doesn't really matter). You can use one with multiple tones as long as each one stays on for 5 or so seconds. Try to avoid anything above 15 kHz or below 100 Hz. Above 15k will probably only go through the tweeters and below 100 will only be on the sub woofer output.
Once you have a tone going through the stereo, put the voltmeter on AC and put one probe in a negative speaker hole and the other probe in the corresponding positive speaker hole. It shouldn't matter which one as long as they both go to the same speaker and are the incoming signal. It looks like the incoming signal (from the radio to the amp) are concentrated on harness A. A5&6, A12&13, A19&20, A21&22, and A25&26 should all do the same thing, but you really only need to check one. The voltmeter should show the same frequency as the video is outputting. If there is no signal here, the stereo may be bad.
If you have a signal here, then your stereo is outputting a signal to the amp. Then you will need to check the output of the amp. B8&9, B1&6, and B2&7 should do the trick. If you have no signal here, then the amp is bad.
If you have power, an incoming signal, and an outgoing signal, then I would almost be stumped. The last thing to check would be the signal right at the speakers. However, I don't think you will get this far without finding a problem.[/QUOTE
Unplug all of your harnesses with the car off. Turn the ignition to (1) where the radio is on.
Put one probe (black one) of the voltmeter in a ground hole (like B3) and put the other probe (red one) into the radio sw hole (C19). The voltmeter needs to be on DC and should read 12 V. This is your main power. If that is good, check the remote turn on (A24). This should read 5 V. If both of these are correct, I would say you have power. If you can't get a reading, try touching the black probe to the chassis of the car as this is your main ground. You have to make really good contact with the chassis though. If you aren't getting power, a fuse somewhere is probably blown.
If you have power, plug your iPhone into your Aux line and find a youtube video of a single tone (say 1 kHz, but it doesn't really matter). You can use one with multiple tones as long as each one stays on for 5 or so seconds. Try to avoid anything above 15 kHz or below 100 Hz. Above 15k will probably only go through the tweeters and below 100 will only be on the sub woofer output.
Once you have a tone going through the stereo, put the voltmeter on AC and put one probe in a negative speaker hole and the other probe in the corresponding positive speaker hole. It shouldn't matter which one as long as they both go to the same speaker and are the incoming signal. It looks like the incoming signal (from the radio to the amp) are concentrated on harness A. A5&6, A12&13, A19&20, A21&22, and A25&26 should all do the same thing, but you really only need to check one. The voltmeter should show the same frequency as the video is outputting. If there is no signal here, the stereo may be bad.
If you have a signal here, then your stereo is outputting a signal to the amp. Then you will need to check the output of the amp. B8&9, B1&6, and B2&7 should do the trick. If you have no signal here, then the amp is bad.
If you have power, an incoming signal, and an outgoing signal, then I would almost be stumped. The last thing to check would be the signal right at the speakers. However, I don't think you will get this far without finding a problem.[/QUOTE
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