I have about 66K miles on a 2006 RL. No issues other than the "remote battery is low" indicator in MID is always on (for a year or so now!) even though I swapped out the batteries on *both* units. Now I haven't seen those B1, A2 codes for a year, etc. Not a big deal I guess.

Anyways, I'm the 2nd owner and not sure if the 1st owner did a tranny fluid fill/flush. Once I had the dealer do a "triple-tranny flush" on my old TL and I'm wondering the following:

a) is that recommended for my car now or a simple fill (I've read 40% comes out and then they fill and it mixes, etc.)

b) I haven't had the rear diff fluid replaced either

c) oil change (I usually get conventional, not synthetic as I'm not planning on driving the car past 10-12 years or 200K miles max)

Is doing these services at Sears ok? I usually go to Sears, cheaper and no issues plus free tire rotation.

If not, what are expected prices in Los Angeles area for these services?

thx.

 

by the way, how much would dealer charge to fix that "remote battery" problem? anybody else experienced that one? my mechanic and sears was not able to figure it out...

 

The mechanic couldn't figure out that the battery in the remote needs replaced? That is why you shouldn't take any car, especially a RL, to sears or any place like that.

If you don't want to take it to acura to get work done try a honda dealer or some reputable mechanic.

Open your remote and replace the batteries in it and that will solve your remote battery problem.

 

I am also the second owner of my 2006 RL with 84,000 miles. I took it to my local Acura dealer last Friday and told them I needed a transmission flush, brake fluid flush and a power steering drain and refill. According to the car fax that came with the car I did indeed need the brake fluid flushed and filled however the service advisor asked me why I needed a transmission fluid drain and refill. I told him that it did not appear on the car fax. So he called the dealership where I bought the car and spoke to the service manager and after giving him my vin number found out that the trans fluid was drained and filled at 50,000 miles which is within service guidelines. He also had the Technician check every system and fluid in the entire car for free to see if anything else needed work. So after asking for 3 different service procedures he told me I only needed one. The name of the dealer is Sussman Acura on Rt 611 in Abington, PA. They run a great honest service department.

 

I already did that on both units as stated in my initial post... This really seems like a bug...

 

missed that

I would take it to an acura dealer and no one else then. You want to be able to start.

 

The car has no issues starting. It's a display issue in the MID only.

 

Have you tried re-syncing the fobs? The instructions are on the back of the fob.

I don't see any reason that someone else can't change fluids. It is not rocket science. My only caution is the fragility of Hondas. DO NOT ever let someone forcibly push or suck out transmission fluid from a Honda. This can dislodge things that need to stay put and can ruin a tranny. Hence the 3x3 flush which is recommended on RLs as well. Another Honda quirk is fluids. The tranny and diff used the same Honda AT Fluid. The name escapes me but is on this site. More importantly is the power steering fluid. Only Honda power steering fluid. Any DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid will work. The synthetic vs. conventional debate is always raging on, and although I am a strong supporter of synthetic, there should be nothing wrong with using conventional as long as you keep in mind starting and operating temperatures while the oil is in use.

Just make sure that if Sears does not carry the correct ATF fluid, you buy it from the dealer and take it to them.

 

personally, I'll get that remote battery change soon... very easy, go to any CVS, walmart, walgreen you can find battery there... use a dime (10 cents) to pop that remote open and swap out the battery (it's the round kind, you can find them near the hearing aid shelves)...

This is important cuz if your battery run out of juice while your car is on, you can't shut the engine off... it happened to me once and I had to stop by CVS to get the battery and leave my car running in the parking lot

as for other service, just get the transmission, front/rear transfer case fluid change out... should cost about $150ish

 

for the 3rd time now:

I HAVE ALREADY CHANGED THE DAMN BATTERIES AND THE WARNING/ERROR STILL DISPLAYS (FOR ONE YEAR OR LONGER) IN THE MID.

please stop repeating yourselves and read my posts... thx.

 

Not all of us can't read. Did you try re-syncing?

 

how exactly do i do this? re-sync with what? both of the remote keys work, it's just the display that keeps complaining the battery is low (for over a year). annoying.

 

did you change the batteries? ... just kidding ... I replaced mine without the problem and the display never came back again ever since. I suggest you take it to a dealer for tranny flush and other fluids you want to have serviced / flushed - and along everything you are doing just ask them to clear that on the MID display and you are good. Any good dealer will do that for free - especially when they see you are driving RL ...

 

Hmmm... I know I saw this somewhere today, but where...? Oh, it was here before you complained about people not reading posts.

Or you could RTFM!

 

what is a fob? what page of the manual? I thought I looked a while back...

 

when i call dealer a few times with different service consultants, they never say they've seen this before and read the manual, etc. they always say tech needs to diagnose, etc.

 

A fob is a piece of decoration or tool (in this case your unlock/lock remote) that you attach to your key chain. If you read the back, it says to hold lock and unlock at the same time to unsync the fob. The light should flash once. Then repeat the process to resync the fob. The light should flash twice. I don't know what page of the manual this is, but it is just after explaining keyless entry.

If that does not work, you might try resetting the MID by holding the button on the steering wheel that has an "i" with a circle around it while the ignition is in the "I" or "II" position. By holding for ten seconds, you can reset the maintenance minder. I'm not sure if this will fix your problem or reset your minder, but if you haven't used the minder for a year, it should be time anyways. Especially since you are about to do maintenance.

Did you see my post about the fluids?