Hi - well, I finally picked up my new-to-me 2008 RL and as I start playing with all of the options, wanted to be able to turn off the DRLs. I presume that I can simply pull the fuse (#3, as I recall)?

The car is really great and I'm thoroughy enjoying it. Drove 125 miles around town (San Diego) this weekend and with a mix of freeway and low speed around town driving, was happy to end up at 25.1 mpg so far. Saturday was more freeway-biased and 26.5 mpg. This is a very smooth car and feels like its on rails - I'm used to more low end torque (coming from a Saab turbo) but it's not an issue. I love the exterior and interior and it seems very well put together. Pairing my phone was easy and the HFL and sat nav are new experiences for me. The car is exactly 3 years old with 37K miles - I have an 8yr/120K mile Acura Care on it so hope to enjoy it for at least that long.

Take care - Kevin

 

Why not drop nokya 2500k halogen bulbs in the drl's like most. They totally look JDM.

 

you never have to see DRL if you use your low beams, that is what I do. That and I use HID high beams which destroy DRL anyway.

 

Pulling the fuse will work however you will have a DRL light on your gauge cluster as the system is not operating!

Using low beams is a good idea, however using high beam HID's aren't a good idea. The more you start HID's and turn them off quickly (like flicking on and off the lights to pass someone or to tell someone to turn of their high beams) the more wear and tear you put on the HID's and the car's electrical system. This is why BMW uses a Bi-xenon projector for high beams and low beams and has halogens setup as "passing lights" for those quick flicks for passing.

 

all my HID's are hard wired to battery, no strain on electrical system. Going strong 2 years now.

 

Show off...

 

I didn't get the HIDs to show off, actually got them to see and to be seen. I hate when people jump in in front of me and doing speed limit. Extra wear on the brakes and all...

 

Meaning no ballasts?

 

meaning the power is drawn straight from the battery vs the original bulb wiring.

The signal to turn on still comes from the original wiring.

 

I meant not taking the simple route on your wiring job.

 

oh, I started with the simple route and it all worked until I added 50 watt ballasts and everything came crashing down.

So now I'm running 35's and paid to have it hard wired. I've done it over a dozen times so obviously learned the hard way.

 

haha, I got ya. I have HIDs in all of my vehicles (including a 92 toyota and hayabusa) and hard wiring through a relay makes a huge difference.

Sorry about the thread jack OP.