Feeler for Custom header made??
Originally Posted by supergreen
Found this in a press release for the 2006 RL. Some good info... but unfortunately it doesn't say where exactly the valve is located.
CLOSE-COUPLED CATALYZERS AND VARIABLE FLOW EXHAUST SYSTEM
The exhaust manifolds of the RL are cast directly into the alloy cylinder heads to reduce weight and to put the engine's two primary catalytic converters as close as possible to the combustion chambers. The 600-cell per-square-inch, high-efficiency converters mount directly to the exhaust port of each cylinder head for extremely rapid converter light off after the engine starts. By eliminating traditional exhaust header pipes, this arrangement results in a significant weight savings.
A hydroformed 2-into-1 collector pipe carries exhaust gases to a single 350 cell-per-inch secondary converter under the passenger cabin. To balance the engine's need for proper exhaust backpressure at low speed and free flow at high speed, the exhaust system incorporates a variable flow rate feature. An exhaust pressure-operated valve in the system has two operating modes. The low speed mode has a flow rate of 130 liters per second; when the engine reaches about 4000 rpm, the exhaust pressure rises enough to open the valve, which increases the flow to 150 liters per second.
CLOSE-COUPLED CATALYZERS AND VARIABLE FLOW EXHAUST SYSTEM
The exhaust manifolds of the RL are cast directly into the alloy cylinder heads to reduce weight and to put the engine's two primary catalytic converters as close as possible to the combustion chambers. The 600-cell per-square-inch, high-efficiency converters mount directly to the exhaust port of each cylinder head for extremely rapid converter light off after the engine starts. By eliminating traditional exhaust header pipes, this arrangement results in a significant weight savings.
A hydroformed 2-into-1 collector pipe carries exhaust gases to a single 350 cell-per-inch secondary converter under the passenger cabin. To balance the engine's need for proper exhaust backpressure at low speed and free flow at high speed, the exhaust system incorporates a variable flow rate feature. An exhaust pressure-operated valve in the system has two operating modes. The low speed mode has a flow rate of 130 liters per second; when the engine reaches about 4000 rpm, the exhaust pressure rises enough to open the valve, which increases the flow to 150 liters per second.
If this is the case, it would be awesome because it would then still maintain a quiet ride when cruising, and at the same time it would work along with the true dual J-Pipe setup as it opens up the valve as more throttle is added.
We're getting closer!
1.fatty
2.supergreen
3.Roy Cya
4.2007AcuraRL
5.deepdezal
6 neuronbob
7.legendaryrl
8.bosco78
Judging by the wording they use, it sounds like there is only one valve in the exhaust... which means unless it works like the 3000GT VR4 which used only one muffler for the "cruise" setting and both mufflers for the "sport" setting, it must be located either at the end of the j-pipe, or in the pipe directly after the cat before the exhaust splits again.
Maybe Bob or Roy (or anyone with an aftermarket exhaust) can help us to determine if this is the case.
Maybe Bob or Roy (or anyone with an aftermarket exhaust) can help us to determine if this is the case.
Bump with results of TL J-pipe mod: 7 hp and 14 lb-ft .
https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/pioneer-navi-system-174509/
Sounds easy to install if the TL guys are correct.
https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/pioneer-navi-system-174509/
Sounds easy to install if the TL guys are correct.
Just to stay objective, what concerns me with these bolt on ideas is lack of custom tuning availability. When you slap on a Cold Air Intake and *if* it does allow the engine to suck more air, I assume long term fuel trim (LTFT) will stay higher to compensate. As long as power curve stays similar to stock, stock ECU tuning with higher LTFT should be able to make the car run well. Meaning, peak hp gained (more air to the engine), higher LTFT should provide enough fuel at the top safely. This is assuming stock ECU runs off of a set fuel map at wide open throttle like many other cars, including BMWs.
When you slap on headers, you could actually change the power curve. On a part throttle conditions, Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) should compensate and make the car run safely in most conditions. But irregular changes in STFT across the power band (since power band could have been changed) may result in LTFT changes that we may or may not want. Meaning...at WOT, there could be unexpected fuel delivery at top. Which shouldn't be too dangerous to the engine unless it is running extremely lean, but just not ideal.
Is there custom tuners for these honda cars? (like in BMW side) Who can actually work on these honda ECUs? If there are that I do not know of...custom tuning availability + bolt-ons sounds much, much more enticing.
When you slap on headers, you could actually change the power curve. On a part throttle conditions, Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) should compensate and make the car run safely in most conditions. But irregular changes in STFT across the power band (since power band could have been changed) may result in LTFT changes that we may or may not want. Meaning...at WOT, there could be unexpected fuel delivery at top. Which shouldn't be too dangerous to the engine unless it is running extremely lean, but just not ideal.
Is there custom tuners for these honda cars? (like in BMW side) Who can actually work on these honda ECUs? If there are that I do not know of...custom tuning availability + bolt-ons sounds much, much more enticing.
Originally Posted by ///M Roadster
Just to stay objective, what concerns me with these bolt on ideas is lack of custom tuning availability. When you slap on a Cold Air Intake and *if* it does allow the engine to suck more air, I assume long term fuel trim (LTFT) will stay higher to compensate. As long as power curve stays similar to stock, stock ECU tuning with higher LTFT should be able to make the car run well. Meaning, peak hp gained (more air to the engine), higher LTFT should provide enough fuel at the top safely. This is assuming stock ECU runs off of a set fuel map at wide open throttle like many other cars, including BMWs.
When you slap on headers, you could actually change the power curve. On a part throttle conditions, Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) should compensate and make the car run safely in most conditions. But irregular changes in STFT across the power band (since power band could have been changed) may result in LTFT changes that we may or may not want. Meaning...at WOT, there could be unexpected fuel delivery at top. Which shouldn't be too dangerous to the engine unless it is running extremely lean, but just not ideal.
Is there custom tuners for these honda cars? (like in BMW side) Who can actually work on these honda ECUs? If there are that I do not know of...custom tuning availability + bolt-ons sounds much, much more enticing.
When you slap on headers, you could actually change the power curve. On a part throttle conditions, Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) should compensate and make the car run safely in most conditions. But irregular changes in STFT across the power band (since power band could have been changed) may result in LTFT changes that we may or may not want. Meaning...at WOT, there could be unexpected fuel delivery at top. Which shouldn't be too dangerous to the engine unless it is running extremely lean, but just not ideal.
Is there custom tuners for these honda cars? (like in BMW side) Who can actually work on these honda ECUs? If there are that I do not know of...custom tuning availability + bolt-ons sounds much, much more enticing.
The factory ECU does have several sensors (intake/exhaust) to detect an increase in air, telling it whether to run richer or leaner. Modifying the exhaust in a naturally aspirated setup, we are mainly looking to improve head scavenging, which allows a fresher and a larger intake charge to occupy the combustion chamber. This means more air is allowed to flow through the intake, which will be adjusted by the air flow sensor/meter. In cases where you have more aggressive modifications, a large increase over the factory range will limit your ECU, and also your engines capabilities, but a simple modification such as this or an intake should be within the factory ECU's range.
On another note, I did speak to JET performance, and they have a re-flash out for the RL for $329. They said they received gains of 14whp and 12tq on a stock RL. If you specify that you have an exhaust, or intake, they can tailor the flash more towards that as well.
Once we get more people on this, I'll contact them as well to see what they can do for us, as a group.
Originally Posted by aznbo187
On another note, I did speak to JET performance, and they have a re-flash out for the RL for $329. They said they received gains of 14whp and 12tq on a stock RL. If you specify that you have an exhaust, or intake, they can tailor the flash more towards that as well.
Details, please.

EDIT: Found some.
is my friend.Part #65001
A similar product?
EDIT #2:
The Jet Performance site has dynos only for the RSX and a 2005 Integra. No RL. Someone would have to figure out ideal A/F ratios, then make a dyno.Jet Peformance dynos.
Originally Posted by neuronbob
Stop the presses. When did this happen? I'd LOVE to tune the ECU to fit my intake and exhaust. Where do I get it? I thought Amuse was the only company with an ECU for the RL, but there was no way to get it to the US.
Details, please.
EDIT: Found some.
is my friend.
Part #65001
A similar product?
EDIT #2:
The Jet Performance site has dynos only for the RSX and a 2005 Integra. No RL. Someone would have to figure out ideal A/F ratios, then make a dyno.Jet Peformance dynos.
Details, please.

EDIT: Found some.
is my friend.Part #65001
A similar product?
EDIT #2:
The Jet Performance site has dynos only for the RSX and a 2005 Integra. No RL. Someone would have to figure out ideal A/F ratios, then make a dyno.Jet Peformance dynos.
The link does seem to be the same product, but the picture isn't. This is a reflash, meaning you send in your ECU, and they flash it, and send it back to you. Should be a great addition to the headers, intake, or exhaust.
Did they tell you whether they had an actual RL dyno with gains? Those of us with intake and exhaust really need this product for ideal tuning.
I ask only because without this information, we'd have to experiment with ideal settings on our own.
I ask only because without this information, we'd have to experiment with ideal settings on our own.
Originally Posted by neuronbob
Did they tell you whether they had an actual RL dyno with gains? Those of us with intake and exhaust really need this product for ideal tuning.
I ask only because without this information, we'd have to experiment with ideal settings on our own.
I ask only because without this information, we'd have to experiment with ideal settings on our own.
As far as setting it for your own, it's not a tune-able chip. Meaning they flash it once, and that's what it stays at until you send it back to them to reflash it. Best thing to do is to get all your bolt ons figured out, and then send it in with that in mind. I believe most people will stick with the basic Intake, J-Pipe (hearder), and exhaust.
Originally Posted by aznbo187
They did say that they had an actual RL that they brought in to R&D.
As far as setting it for your own, it's not a tune-able chip. Meaning they flash it once, and that's what it stays at until you send it back to them to reflash it. Best thing to do is to get all your bolt ons figured out, and then send it in with that in mind. I believe most people will stick with the basic Intake, J-Pipe (hearder), and exhaust.
As far as setting it for your own, it's not a tune-able chip. Meaning they flash it once, and that's what it stays at until you send it back to them to reflash it. Best thing to do is to get all your bolt ons figured out, and then send it in with that in mind. I believe most people will stick with the basic Intake, J-Pipe (hearder), and exhaust.
Also, bump.......c'mon, where are the modders at?
Hi members, let me first say that you guys run a top notch site and the members are top notch also. I've been logging on for a while and just checking information that has been a great help to me. Haven't posted much but love the info and I really trust you guys. (got a 2001 acura cl) With that said I'm picking up my preowned rl this coming week and I would be totally interested in the mods. So if possible put me down please. Will post pics and avatar when I pick up my car. (I'm a police officer and I am always working.)
Originally Posted by aznbo187
1.fatty
2.supergreen
3.Roy Cya
4.2007AcuraRL
5.deepdezal
6 neuronbob
7.legendaryrl
8.bosco78
9.AmBiGuOuS626
10.iamlegend
11.sportyshortee
12.fredren
13.andysdesign3
2.supergreen
3.Roy Cya
4.2007AcuraRL
5.deepdezal
6 neuronbob
7.legendaryrl
8.bosco78
9.AmBiGuOuS626
10.iamlegend
11.sportyshortee
12.fredren
13.andysdesign3
come on guys only 2 more people needed.
Hey everyone, I came across this thread and registered right away. I will be picking up my RL within the next week so please put me on the list. I work part time for a performance shop in the Chicagoland area and we have an AWD dyno. So I plan on some before and after dyno numbers if you guys can make this. Thanks, Mike
Originally Posted by aznbo187
They did say that they had an actual RL that they brought in to R&D.
As far as setting it for your own, it's not a tune-able chip. Meaning they flash it once, and that's what it stays at until you send it back to them to reflash it. Best thing to do is to get all your bolt ons figured out, and then send it in with that in mind. I believe most people will stick with the basic Intake, J-Pipe (hearder), and exhaust.
As far as setting it for your own, it's not a tune-able chip. Meaning they flash it once, and that's what it stays at until you send it back to them to reflash it. Best thing to do is to get all your bolt ons figured out, and then send it in with that in mind. I believe most people will stick with the basic Intake, J-Pipe (hearder), and exhaust.
There is the NEO, but you usually have to hack the main harness.
http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_ele...=260&pageNum=1
Then they have ther're newer unit which flashes the ECU and also has the VTEC functionality.
http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_ele...=197&pageNum=1
1.fatty
2.supergreen
3.Roy Cya
4.2007AcuraRL
5.deepdezal
6 neuronbob
7.legendaryrl
8.bosco78
9.AmBiGuOuS626
10.iamlegend
11.sportyshortee
12.fredren
13.andysdesign3
14.mandkcasey
1 more, just 1 more..
2.supergreen
3.Roy Cya
4.2007AcuraRL
5.deepdezal
6 neuronbob
7.legendaryrl
8.bosco78
9.AmBiGuOuS626
10.iamlegend
11.sportyshortee
12.fredren
13.andysdesign3
14.mandkcasey
1 more, just 1 more..
[QUOTE=fredren]1.fatty
2.supergreen
3.Roy Cya
4.2007AcuraRL
5.deepdezal
6 neuronbob
7.legendaryrl
8.bosco78
9.AmBiGuOuS626
10.iamlegend
11.sportyshortee
12.fredren
13.andysdesign3
14.mandkcasey
15.csmeance
I'll be honest, i'm interested in it, and would get it as soon as I get my RL, but i may not buy it as I still have to work out the details on either an 09 or 08 RL. Also will it fit the 09RL, I don't have a chance right now, but the part numbers for the 09 to the 08 RL should say so.
2.supergreen
3.Roy Cya
4.2007AcuraRL
5.deepdezal
6 neuronbob
7.legendaryrl
8.bosco78
9.AmBiGuOuS626
10.iamlegend
11.sportyshortee
12.fredren
13.andysdesign3
14.mandkcasey
15.csmeance
I'll be honest, i'm interested in it, and would get it as soon as I get my RL, but i may not buy it as I still have to work out the details on either an 09 or 08 RL. Also will it fit the 09RL, I don't have a chance right now, but the part numbers for the 09 to the 08 RL should say so.






