Hi all, I have a 2006 RL - A-spec, stock, except for wheels.

About 3 months ago, my battery died, I replaced it w/ a DieHard Gold 700cca from AAP. It worked fine up until 2 weeks ago. Car was completely dead, no lights, door wouldn't unlock via FOB, etc.

I had it towed to the dealership, they said it was a dead DieHard battery. So they installed an Acura battery. everything was fine after the OEM Acura battery install.

I took the 3months old DieHard battery back to AAP and they charged it and tested it and said the DieHard battery was OK. I also had them test the alternator & starter, etc and the results came back ok. So now I have an extra DieHard battery laying around while the Acura battery is in the car.

Then I went on vaca and didn't drive the RL for 1 week. I tried to drive it today, but same problems. nothing worked, battery dead, had to use the physical key to get in to the car.

I read some threads about the trunk release button, HFL, etc causing parasitic draw.

I haven't used the driver side trunk release in a while. My bluetooth used to work, but it hasn't worked in a few months, so I thought it might have been an android os update on my samsung GS3 phone. I don't really use it that often anyways.

door handle locks have always worked fine. I checked fuse #7 on driver side interior and it was fine.

Any suggestions? Or should I just take it back to the stealership to have them try to diagnose where the parasitic draw is coming from? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Is your dome light set to "door" or "on"? Or maybe your trunk is being left open slightly? The little blue interior LED lights stay on all the time in my RL, but it has never drained the battery.

Out of curiosity, are you locking the doors with the remote every time you get out, or are you using the door lock, which doesn't arm the system? Maybe if you don't arm it, it might be leaving the interior lights on longer each time, or something like that.

 

You sure the door button doesn't set the alarm?

 

I thought only the keyfob sets the alarm. Does the alarm light blink when you lock the doors and get out? Does the overhead light go off almost as soon as you close the door when locking from the inside? I rarely ever do it that way, which is why I asked if you maybe have habits that are different than most. What I usually do is swipe the back of my hand over the handle to enable the alarm/locks (or use the keyfob when that doesn't work, due to climate conditions).

 

Have you tried pairing a different bluetooth device and seeing if it works? Did you check your grounds? Seems like a silly question but when calling tech support the first thing they ask every time is did you check your grounds.

By grounds I mean battery ground and other easily accessed ground clusters (usually in the kick panels and behind the carpet on the wheel well in the trunk).

I haven't noticed any issues on my end yet but I'm planning on doing the stereo over the winter and will be going over/re-doing all the grounds.

 

they said it was the HFL/bluetooth module. makes sense since it stopped working a few months ago. unplugged it. we'll see if it will drain again if not driven for a few days.

 

Wow, that is a bummer if that is the problem. (I wonder if that other guy got his junkyard BT chip to work).

It was things like this that I was worried about when I bought my first luxury car (RL), and why I got the extended warranty. But I haven't had any electrical/computer problems. Never even used the warranty whatsoever. My problems have all been pretty routine stuff.

I thought my trunk was malfunctioning because it wouldn't open the other day... I had just accidentally flipped the glove box switch when changing cabin filters.

 

shouldnt be to hard to track a used one down.

 

Hi Ho: Rather than guessing what the problem might be, why don't you use an ammeter and measure the current draw? Most simple VOM's have a 10 amp connection, which should be enough for parasitic draws. Just connect the meter in series with the battery terminal being sure to use the 10 amp connection. If you have a draw more than about 0.1 amps, you can use the meter to figure out what circuit is at fault by connecting the meter where the fuse is for that circuit. Another way is to simply pull fuses until the reading goes down. This is probably simpler and safer. Your battery is something in the vicinity of 80 Amp hrs., so if you have a 1 amp draw the battery should be discharged in 80 hours. If you have a 10 amp draw it will just take 8 hours. Of course you should turn everything off and make sure you don't have the fob anywhere around the car.

 

I am having the same issue with my 2006 TL. HFL no longer works. How do I disconnect the HFL?