So to make a long story short..... replaced battery exactly one year ago.. was getting the check tranny check headlights and check emissions. .. got battery all went away....
fast forward last week, got the same check engine check emissions check transmission all the lights again. Went to 2 different mechanics, battery tested bad in both cases, alternator checked ok. went to battery store grabbed a new battery put it in and all was perfect until just now and I'm getting those lights again check transmission check emissions and check front headlights....



What do I do now??

 

Did you clear the error messages? If not, you may still be getting the message from the previous problem.

 

Cleared at Radio and cleared on odb2
lasted a whole week no codes after new battery

 

CoULD it be the progressive snapshot thing? Just realized it started this time last year when I had it plugged in and then plugged it in about a month ago to renew discount.....

 

I called progressive they said that the device does put a draw on the battery even when the car is off so they told me to take it out and send it back and I'm just hoping thats the issue. has anyone here used snapshot in their Acura

 

I just called acura, JUST for piece of mind, THEY said that thing wont draw enough to kill battery, and they say it may be the Bluetooth Module even when the car is off pinging and draining battery...

Said its a 60.00 fee to diagnose, and could run up to 1500.00 for new module...

Does anyone have any feedback on this, im going to do a search now

Again, remember, battery was fine for ONE whole year without snapshot plugged in, wouldn't this have happened sooner if Bluetooth was issue?

 

I'm guessing it's probably not related to this since it's a different set of lights, but ETCG recently posted this. Could be another reason for the Christmas tree on the dash:

 

Not the same, but I appreciate it, GOOD TO KNOW


I was thinking, start with taking out the Snapshot... see if issue happens again, if it DOES, I will disconnect the HFL module behind glove box ( easy enough) and take it from their?

 

The dealer MAY be right about the HFL module. https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-90/hfl-dies-parasitic-draw-battery-dies-883766/

There is also known issue with the AcuraLink module (located in the driver side quarter panel of the trunk) that draws excessive current and kills the battery when the trunk button is used after the car is off, but I thought it was addressed in 2005. https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-2005-2012-76/tsb-05-022-xm-delay-other-stuff-released-today-496545/

I want to also say there was an issue with the XM module killing the battery, but I am having a harder time finding that documentation.

EDIT: One more for good measure https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-2005-2012-76/battery-constantly-dies-758422/
and the obligatory

 

I was reading about that, but I thought that was an 05 issue as well, PLUS I just walk up to the trunk and open it...

The Bluetooth thing, who knows, but he was VERY quick to discount it being the snapshot device... Again, from talking with Progressive, the one KNOWN factor is that the snapshot DOES have a draw when car is off... it uses cell towers and stuff to report back...

NOW that being said, I really don't know what else it could be... I took the snapshot out last night, no issues yet...

I REALLY don't want to go to acura....LOL

 

How can I test battery drain using a multimeter?
I could always check that way and use deductive reasoning....Just was never sure how to do it

 

then dont go to acura and keep troubleshooting like you are...
you're almost there, with the snapshot device.

keep it unplugged. and see if the battery drains.

next, you could buy a multimeter and check the values to everything yourself.


with the car off, the battery should give 12.4 volts

 

See the edits to my post to fix the misinformation I provided off of assumptions.

Don't waste your time with a multimeter. If you suspect the battery has a bad cell, take it in for a warranty replacement.

 

Does anyone know the correct figure for normal draw on the battery with car off?

 

This is the 2nd battery in one year, was put in new last week due to same issue...

 

Yes, I read that. The multimeter will be off little or no help to you.

I do not suggest attempting to read the current draw on a car battery. Reading the voltage is simple. Reading the current is not.

 

Well as they say, keep it simple

Starting with the snapshot is my first check

I will update back and let you know what happens in a week or so...

 

like 12.4 or 12.2 volts.

as long as it says 12 volts you're good. if it dips towards 10 or 11....thats bad

 

I checked it was at 12.7

The only thing that's sucks is this is all trial and error... have to wait in between tests to see what works and what doesn't...

Snapshot out since last night, no issues yet

 

your battery is good.
and yes, thats what trouble shooting is.

exactly what the techs at Acura would be doing, only they like to throw parts on it even if not needed.

plug in the snapdevice and leave the car off. then test the battery again.
if the snap device is drawing, your test will show.

 

http://gotaclassaction.com/progressi...rance-program/

Read the comments section

 

Which test, a draw test? or Just a voltage check?

Was told a few posts up not to bother with draw test

 

a voltage check with the snap shot device plugged in.
if it is indeed drawing, you will see it on the multimeter when checking the battery. instead of your 12.7 V, it will drop.

 

A simple voltage test will not usually show if there is a reasonable current draw on the battery. It could be possible if the draw has occurred for a long time and has reduced the battery voltage. However, a charged battery can run an electronic for hours without a dip in voltage.

 

especially with a low power'd device like the snapshot. gotcha, Ian.

 

I guess the good part in all of this is that whatever it is, im sure you guys will help me find it, and then I can get the parts WITHOUT going through acura if needed and save some money LOL

 

So let's clarify or re-clarify just for sanity's sake. You bought a new battery last week. Recently (yesterday?) it was dead and the car would not start. Today, the voltage reads 12.7 and the car starts without issue.

Is that correct? How did you recharge the battery?

 

^Wait, I thought the battery was a year old, or am I off?

 

Nope incorrect LOL

Ok so basically LAST YEAR, started getting check emissions, check transmission, and check AFS lights..
Came to the forums did a search and found the main issue with these cars is battery... SO, I put in a new battery, and all was fine up until 2 weeks ago... Started getting the SAME issues.... Went to have battery tested, was told it was bad, the CCA's were to low, and the voltage was low... Charging system tested fine...
Got ANOTHER new battery and now 1 week later (last night) the lights on the dash started coming on again

 

so its a week old battery now, the car never died, it runs ok, just get the damn idiot lights all at once, and that's what starts the whole thing, so when it happened last night, I immediately took out the snapshot, as it is the only "addon" I have that would draw the battery

 

Got it now. I almost pointed out the other issue with a battery test but thought your car wasn't starting.

A simple voltage test will also not tell you if the battery is good enough for the RL's electronics. With the car off, the battery voltage should be 12-13V as justn indicated. When the starter is cranking, a TON of current is pumping from the battery, and the battery voltage WILL drop. I don't know what an acceptable range is, but the voltage will go below 12V. Once the engine takes over and powers the alternator, the charging system will ramp the voltage back up all the way to 13-14V as that is the typical alternator voltage.

If your battery is weak (not capable of supplying the typical power to start the car), the voltage dip will be excessive, and the ramp to alternator voltage will take extra time. If all of the computers and sensors in the car are booting up in this low voltage state, there can be a lot of confusion and errors set.

You could test this (known as a load test) by watching the voltage as the starter cranks, but I don't know what an acceptable range is.

You can also test the alternator voltage by looking at the voltage after the engine has started. You should see 13-14V.

All 3 tests can be done from the battery terminals.

 

Alternator tested at 14.2 I believe with a full load when hooked up to machine at auto place....

So in my opinion the alt is good...

But again, this is all on a one week old battery.... I wish it were just a battery issue LOL

 

I think you have fair reason to assume that the battery and alternator are good, but you have something in the car drawing current that is prematurely killing your battery.

We have seen an RL sub-woofer here have an internal short that melted the coil of the woofer leaving it on the trunk floor. https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=woofer+melt

In short (no pun intended), it could be anything, but you have some good starting places.

 

Go to youtube and search on how to diagnose a parasitic draw. Basically, you measure the current at the battery and start pulling fuses to see what is drawing. It's not difficult. I'm not sure how many fuse boxes our cars have, there is one under the hood and possibly another in the driver or passenger footwell.

 

Disconnect your negative battery cable and hook you negative meter lead to the battery post and the positive meter lead to the unhooked negative battery cable and set your meter to 500 mA or under setting...If it's normal it would be around 20-30 mA. If it's above 50 milliamps, it's considered high. Pull the HFL and re-check. These are not as common as some may think on the RL to go bad.

 

Had a similar problem with my 2005 RL -- I left the key FOB in the cup holder when I arrived home. The key FOB was draining the battery. My brother had the same problem with his 2011 TL until he took it out of the car.

 

So far so good fingers crossed

 

 

Dammit.. Happened this morning...

So a week to 2 weeks, must be a slow draw, If it were alternator, I would think it would happen MUCH quicker...

But then its fine again, if I turn car off, and back on, I bet it wont happen again for another week....

I guess its a draw test for me tonight...

If I JUST disconnect the negative, will I lose settings?


PPPS..... COULD it be the alternator on its way out, I was getting that belt noise issue a while back, the noise is still their just not as loud..
Maybe its not charging like it is supposed to? Intermittent?

PS.. I unpaired all my phones, disconnecting the HFL made me lose the microphone to use the other systems in the car

 

Any battery disconnect will require radio and nav codes. All other settings should stay.