Any recommended (easy) way to change the D2S bulb on drivers side of a '08 RL? The position of the socket seems to be jammed deep into the corner.

 

welcome, the easiest way is the search button.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-2005-2012-76/tips-replacing-hids-862578/

another convo just for fun

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-2005-2012-76/2005-rl-low-beam-headlight-inside-bulbs-838968/

 

thanks, but neither of your suggested threads address the driver side. btw, I saw those threads already while doing a search prior to my original post.

 

My apologies, you needed a thread that specifically calls out the drivers head light which happens to be the easier side.

I understand an wish you the best of luck on your non-search.

On a side note here is a thread about removing the bumper to get to the headlights if you dont go through the fender well or from the top.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-2005-2012-76/front-bumper-removal-pics-post-33-a-836814/

 

Car Talk is more for general discussion of cars not covered by one of our model specific forums.

You'll definitely have better results in the RL section. Welcome to the forum

 

Removing the bumper is your best bet good luck amigo...

 

I still want to see a write-up on how removing the bumper helps considering you would be working in front of the housing to replace something at the back.

OP, you can either remove the battery and shove your arm in there, or you can remove the wheel and wheel well liner to have easiest access.

 

I vote fenderwell

 

low beam bulb.. took me 10mins after i removed the battery. put my hand in turned counter clockwise cover then etc.. very easy!! just take your time. dealer charges $200.00 plus.. i did both!!!

 

Replacing both of bulbs tomorrow: going to local certified acura and honda mechanic; labor $90 to remove bumper and install new bulbs I got for $100 on amazon (OEM)...

I am fine with the price... if I had my own garage I would probably do it myself but I don't :/

 

The D2S I ordered should come today, thanks for your advise Christopher - let you know how I make out.

 

Well, in the process,I accidentally dislodged the AFS connector (I am both stupid and clumsy) and there was no way to reattach it without pulling the light assembly out to re-attach. So off came the bumper and re-attached the AFS and replaced the D2S at the same time - took about 1.5 hours - still worth the effort compared to taking the car to the dealer.

Thanks all for the help!

 

its always a great feeling when you fix it yourself.

 

Especially after you're the reason it broke.

 

I got mine replaced already and like the output new bulbs kick out - definitely see the difference.
My question now is: Did someone find anything about lights changing the color after 2-3k miles into more blueish instead bright white? Or, these 85122 C1 bulbs are not doing that?

 

HIDs do shift color over time. Most things that shift like that will have their most significant shift early with more gradual shifts over time. However, I can't say with certainty that HIDs follow this rule.

 

I noticed that a couple of days before the one headlight bit the dust the headlight turned very pink - a nice touch at Christmas time.

 

thats common for a bad bulb.

 

True, my passenger side bulb turned really purple before it went out, after maybe one week.
Yesterday i changed it, took out that splash guard what is inside fender and it was easy to do, broke few plastic "buttons" but i had similar fasteners what i used to replace broken ones.
There was a Osram Xenarc inside and i repalced it with Osram Xenarc Cool Blue.
After that i was going to replace also driver side, took of the wheel and splash guard.... Noob me, there is that air intake resonator box so that you cant change the bulb from there, maybe today i will take the battery loos and change it from there.

 

I removed the battery, and the plastic trim that goes up the side near the fender. The resonator box tube doesn't make it much easier to do that side, but it's do-able. Took me like 20-25 minutes including battery removal/reinstalling. And this is with no prior knowledge of how things went together in there. I just got cracking.

It does probably help that I have dealt with D2S lighting before though.

 

^I did it just like that today, my hand wont fit there without removing battery.
Little bit tricky but doable like you said.

 

Acura 2006-2008 headlight
You have to have very small alien Star Trek hands to get to the back of the light this way. 90% of the time, you will have to take the front bumper off, remove 3 screws holding the headlight and then pull it out so you can get to the back cover. The good news is you don't have to take the bumper completely off, just the one side where you're working. You'll have to take out the battery if the bad light is on the drivers side. Do not touch the new bulb with oily fingers. Took me two day. The mechanic wanted 140.00.

 

Or you can remove the tire, remove the liner from the fender, and reach for the headlight.

 

My driver's side low beam just went out. Dealer was $200 just for the bulb. Does anyone have any recommendations on a replacement bulb. I see Amazon has a bunch including Phillips but should I stick with OEM? Thinking about changing both to keep them consistent plus if one goes out...it's only a matter of time before the other goes. Hoping I can remove the battery to access it easier.

 

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hi...-d-series.html

buy oem equivalents here for half the price or buy their in house brand for 50 bucks a pair. Awesome company to deal with. Steer clear of Amazon because there's been many fakes out there.

 

Sorry but the in-house brand of TRS - Morimoto - is a cheap alternative that will barely last it's 12 months warranty.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-a...-6000k-899847/

 

I have a 2010 RL and replaced the passenger side HID today, however I cannot get the freaking cap/cover back on. Is there a trick? I took the o-ring off and it twisted back on easily, but with the o-ring on its its impossible! Help.

 

It is possible... I figured it out. I think the o-ring had swollen up a little. Something much worse happened when working on the driver's side. I dropped the old bulb inside the housing. I ended up having to partially remove the bumper and pull out the housing. I broke probably 4-5 clips on the bumper. YOLO. So much work just for a lightbulb. 4 hours of my day I'll never get back.

 

I still haven't ordered my bulb yet. I keep thinking I should change both to keep the lighting consistent plus if one side goes out....it's only a matter of time before the passenger side burns out. I also don't want it to turn into a project like what happened with your car. That really is a bummer and I do not want to take the bumper off.

 

So I almost ordered a bulb last night but went into my glove box this morning to get the last receipt from the dealer so I could call the service advisor for their estimate of a new ds2 installed. For whatever reason...I decided to double check the light again. car was not on and BOOM... it lit up.




Talk about strange. Something must be lose back there so I'll have to keep an eye on it but for now. It looks like I won't be undertaking this project. All in all the RL has been good to me except for that daggone AFS light. Car is an '05 and still under 100k.

 

I don't think you need to remove bumper for KB1 to change the bulb, remove battery on left side and i think other side is easy as well.

 

I'm not certain it means its good.

Check while driving at night if the light flickers.

Are these still the same original bulbs in the car, or have they been changed before? Coz if all connections are fine, then it seems the bulb is an aftermarket bulb.

What i noticed is, my dealer bulbs start turning pink when they need to be changed, but the aftermarket not. They become a darker color pink over time until they never turn on.

The aftermarket, they flicker then go off. If you turn lights off then back on, they come back on. until it happens too often, and eventually die.

My guess is it's the color temperature - but im an ignorant amateur. but that's the only thing.. the 4300 kelvins dealer ones get pinky, whole higher like 5500 or 6500 etc. seem to flicker.

Morimoto started flickering within 8 months. I wonder if someone tries installing aftermarket like morimoto, or philips, or sylvania, etc. in 44300 kelvins.. and see if it goes pinkish, or flickers once its dying.

The trouble to go through to install new ones, makes me wanna just buy dealer bulbs, or find out who makes them, and install those. They seem to last a decade.

 

I agree that the dealer ones last a long time and you should use caution when buying them online. I purchased my '05 from Acura of Manhattan in 2011 so I assume my bulbs are still original from the factory. I just don't understand why mine wasn't working the one day but it's something to keep an eye on. If it goes out again I'll take it to the dealer as something could be lose but I assume these are original factory bulbs which means they should really both be replaced at the same time to save me the headache.

 

Anyone has any experience if we buy aftermarket bulbs, but get them 4300K (stock color), would it make any difference in terms of bulb life vis-a-vis our ballasts, if we get 5500k? Would a 4300 last longer than a higher color? or it has absolutely no effect?

 

I have the understanding that a lower temp bulb last longer than a bulb of higher temp. The time differentially may be trivial tho.