2008 rl fob programming
2008 rl fob programming
Bought this car a year ago with only driver 1 key fob. Apparently this is the first year they went with a proximity function.
So I bought an OEM new driver 1 fob from local reputable locksmith, I drove down to pick it up and have it progammed. After hooking up to the car, the guy came back in and said he was reluctant to try it because this car has an immobilizer and he didnt want to risk "bricking" the car. So I called a local dealer and they said sure bring it over we can program it. FYI this key fob is the most expensive one the locksmith has seen, I paid $200 for just the fob.
So I drive over to dealership, wait 45 minutes and they tell me I am good to go and pay them $90. I get home and later that night go to use it and it doesnt work. So I go back the next day and after looking at it they tell me they cant get it to program, that it will lock and unlock doors but not start.
So back to the locksmith, I call him and arrange to take it back. My wife ends up doing it, gets there and he tells me that the e-key that has the transponder in it will start the car when you actually put the key in but not just by having it near the ignition. The lock and unlock functions which are apparently separate work fine. The odd thing is he tells me the original fob will start the car without the E-key in the fob which it shouldn't do because the transponder is in the e-key.
So now he is ordering another fob- maybe the antenna winding which is in the fob is bad was my thought. What a PITA.
So I bought an OEM new driver 1 fob from local reputable locksmith, I drove down to pick it up and have it progammed. After hooking up to the car, the guy came back in and said he was reluctant to try it because this car has an immobilizer and he didnt want to risk "bricking" the car. So I called a local dealer and they said sure bring it over we can program it. FYI this key fob is the most expensive one the locksmith has seen, I paid $200 for just the fob.
So I drive over to dealership, wait 45 minutes and they tell me I am good to go and pay them $90. I get home and later that night go to use it and it doesnt work. So I go back the next day and after looking at it they tell me they cant get it to program, that it will lock and unlock doors but not start.
So back to the locksmith, I call him and arrange to take it back. My wife ends up doing it, gets there and he tells me that the e-key that has the transponder in it will start the car when you actually put the key in but not just by having it near the ignition. The lock and unlock functions which are apparently separate work fine. The odd thing is he tells me the original fob will start the car without the E-key in the fob which it shouldn't do because the transponder is in the e-key.
So now he is ordering another fob- maybe the antenna winding which is in the fob is bad was my thought. What a PITA.
I'm going through something similar. 2006 RL bought with 1 key. No fob
I bought a used fob (Driver 1) pretty cheap and thought I'd try a reputable local locksmith and if they couldn't do it then at least I didn't blow big $ at the dealership.
He programmed the fob and it seemed to work. Unlocks doors, trunk, and car starts. It says Welcome Driver 1. However the transmission is locked... can't shift. Radio / nav is off and it's not asking for codes. Put the key in and everything is normal. The ignition is hard to turn with the "cap" on it and it feels weird. Like the ignition cylinder is messed up but it turns smooth with the key in it.
I was nervous about trying to program a fob and feared it would cause more problems than it's worth.
I wanted to share my recent experience and hope to read about other's experiences along with yours.
I bought a used fob (Driver 1) pretty cheap and thought I'd try a reputable local locksmith and if they couldn't do it then at least I didn't blow big $ at the dealership.
He programmed the fob and it seemed to work. Unlocks doors, trunk, and car starts. It says Welcome Driver 1. However the transmission is locked... can't shift. Radio / nav is off and it's not asking for codes. Put the key in and everything is normal. The ignition is hard to turn with the "cap" on it and it feels weird. Like the ignition cylinder is messed up but it turns smooth with the key in it.
I was nervous about trying to program a fob and feared it would cause more problems than it's worth.
I wanted to share my recent experience and hope to read about other's experiences along with yours.
Having similar problem with FOBs: lock/unlock OK, but won't work to start engine.
Bought a 2005 RL with one key and one working FOB.
Bought extra FOBs on EBAY. Programmed them using key on/key off technique. They work on locks but not on engine start.
1) What do I have to do to get FOBs to allow engine start, like the original? Do they have to be "paired" with a dealer machine?
Bought after market key blanks with xponder chips. Headed to Acura on Wednesday to get them cut and paired.
Now the big question:
2) How may keys and/or FOBs will the 2005 RL support?
Bought a 2005 RL with one key and one working FOB.
Bought extra FOBs on EBAY. Programmed them using key on/key off technique. They work on locks but not on engine start.
1) What do I have to do to get FOBs to allow engine start, like the original? Do they have to be "paired" with a dealer machine?
Bought after market key blanks with xponder chips. Headed to Acura on Wednesday to get them cut and paired.
Now the big question:
2) How may keys and/or FOBs will the 2005 RL support?
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