2014 RDX with 413K miles.

For a month I am having issues with making wide/sharp right turn. The front driver side wheel seems to slip and VSA flashes but doesn't stay on. No issues with left turns.
VSA is not off.
A couple of months prior, I had front wheel alignment done.
Tires are all the same size. 235/60 R18.
Any ideas?
Thanks.

 

If the VSA flashes, it means that a DTС appeared in the history, you need to read it.

 

Yup starting with a code reader is the way to go. Auto parts stores can do free readings as well in a pinch.

 

Used my Ancel AD410 code reader. No DTC data exists.

 

It sounds like the VSA is behaving like it should. Here's what I found online.

A flashing VSA light while turning usually indicates that the Vehicle Stability Assist system is actively working to maintain traction and stability by applying brakes to individual wheels, meaning the car is likely experiencing some loss of traction during the turn, and the system is trying to correct it; this is generally normal, especially on slippery surfaces or when turning sharply.

 

AD410 is not suitable because it reads active codes via OBD protocol, it does not know how to communicate with individual modules and query them about history.
You need a real diagnostic scanner, not a calculator that can only reset active codes.

 

I finally got around to getting this issue looked at. The front tires are worn out on both sides. The independent shop I go to says I need a new complete front suspension. Apparently the front control arm is bent on one side. I could see that but not terribly. They recommend replacing Control Arm w/ball joint, Struts/Springs Assembly, Inner tie rod, Outer tie rod, sway bar links. All on both sides. The estimate is for $4100. WTF!
I mentioned that I had front struts replaced about 100k miles ago. The guy says "we will not do piece meal. If you don't want full suspension, we won't do the work."

The quote for parts is $2083. I priced those parts on Rock Auto. All parts cost $590 approx!! If only I can find someone to do the labor with my parts.

I have 428,000 miles on this car and is not worth $4K if I sell it without any issues.

 

I went to another shop to have this looked at. They said ball joints need to be replaced. There is play when wheel is moved, especially on the driver side which is where I was seeing issues when making turns. Even a noob like me can see it. I asked if they see issues with struts, sway bar links, tie rods, control arms? No they said. Asked if the control arm is bent. No. Estimate to replace 2 ball joints and do alignment is $502. They said car is in good shape for one with 429K miles. I don't know why the $4100 estimate from the independent shop I take my car to. Can't trust anyone these days.

 

That is great news!

 

That's why I do my own work these days... no one will ever care about your car as much as you do.

Btw very impressive mileage - keep up whatever you're doing for maintenance.

 

Amazing miles on vehicle wow.
How many timing belts and water pumps?
What was your engine oil, transmission change frequency?

 

I stuck to recommended service intervals for everything. Engine oil is Mobil 1.
I used to go to dealership for oil change as I was not a DIY and I don't know what they used. Now I change oil & filter every 5K miles.

 

I had rear struts & links replaced this weekend first time after 430k miles. Noticeable difference in noise. While that was going on I took a longer look at the front lower control arms. The rubber bushings are cracking after 3 years. While the ball joints are definitely due to be replaced, I am going to go ahead and replace the control arms w/ball joints.The existing ones are Beck & Arnley.

I see Moog & Mavotech available on rockauto.com. Which brand is preferred?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=10401&jsn=415
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=10401&jsn=414
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=10401&jsn=413
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=10401&jsn=412

Thanks.

 

Today I had the lower control arms w/ball joints replaced.

The wheel no longer slips while making a turn.
However I still get faults. Got these in the past too and they went away and returned.

1. Check VSA System
2. Check Hill Start Assist System
3. Check Power Steering
4. Check All-wheel Drive

I don't experience any issue with normal driving of the car with these messages.

I was told today that I need outer tie rods. Will get those replaced once parts arrive.
I need to replace the tires and get alignment.

Went to Autozone.
Their report says " ABS (27-21) Steering Angle Sensor Output Signal Malfunction"

Is this somehow related to outer tie rods? Any other ideas?

Thanks.

 

Just figured I'd ask to knock it out of the way: How old is your battery?

 

7 months old and Autozone tested it and found to be good.

I am guessing at this time that I need to get alignment and steering angle sensor calibration done.
If that doesn't work, perhaps the sensor needs to be replaced.

Thanks

 

Steering angle sensor relearn is your next step. Couple scan tools that I know have this function are the Foxwell NT510 and Launch Creader Elite.

The procedure literally takes 2 minutes and the scan tool walks you through it. Super easy.

 

Replaced the outer tie rods, tires and got an alignment. Now the suspension is quiet and no alerts.
Lets see how long this lasts.
I will look into Steering angle sensor relearn. Thanks.

 

This didn't last long.
Now i hear knocking noise when moving after coming to a full stop. WTH. But no suspension noise while car is on the move.
I see oily residue on one of the front KYB struts that are about 110K miles old.
This car has become money pit suddenly at 438K miles.
Are the FCS strut & spring assembly on rockauto.com any good?
Does anyone know part number for Front sway bar Bushing Bracket Bolt? I believe these are 12mm.
Thanks.

 

Is it #28 below?
Front Knuckle - 2014 Acura RDX 5 Door BASE (2WD) KA 6AT

 

No. It is bolt on #10 which is a bracket that holds the bushing (#9) in place.

 

#28 flange bolt (8X16) (red arrow) passes through #10 front stabilizer bracket (purple arrow), which houses #9 front stabilizer holder bush (green arrow), which in-turn fastens the whole component assembly to #15 or 16 front compliance bracket (blue arrow) as demonstrated by the black solid line path.
Is that not what you asked for?
If not, which flange bolt are you talking about shown in post 20's above diagram?

 

Looks like you are right. My bad.
Thanks.

 

Does anyone know if the flange bolt (14x94) used on the control arm come with a nut?
The diagram I saw doesn't show a nut. But the Moog control arm installed on my car has a nut on that bolt and it is using only 2 or 3threads of the nut making me wonder if the bolt from Moog is short.
I called Moog and they claimed the bolt is same size as OE and it comes with a nut. I can see that nut in the part page.
https://www.drivparts.com/part-detai...t_name=%7B2%7D
I called Parts at a local Acura dealer and they said the bolt does NOT come with a nut.
I now have to pull that bolt and compare to OE bolt I still have.
I am more confused because I thought the bolt is meant to thread directly into the subframe and doesn't use a nut. The two 12x90 bolts seem to thread into the subframe and don't have nuts.


Nut at the end of the bolt.